XJ1100 Brakes

[glenng]

Has anyone ever changed the linked brakes on a Maxim to double discs controlled by the lever? My rear brake cylinder has never worked well (need rebuild kit - anyone know where to find one for XJ by the way?) and I would really prefer strong front double discs hand controlled like most bikes I ever owned. My question being - Is there a simple way to tie the calipers/hoses together? What parts would I need? Would I have to change the master cylinder (a larger one) or would the current one suffice? Your opinions highly valued!!!!

[Jerry]

Two things. yes, it has been done. use the "Search" button at the top-left of your screen and look for "linked brakes" or XJ brakes. One of the threads you will find is:
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...=linked+brakes

Some debate over unlinking the brakes; I have left mine linked since I bought my XJ in late '99, rebuilt the rear master cylinder and like the system. Others have un-linked them with good results, though it is not just a matter of swapping hoses. One issue addressed: the XJ front M/C is smaller than the XS as the XJ is designed to push only 1 caliper. While you can use the stock XJ front M/C I would investigate swapping in a larger unit. Again, these and other issues have been discussed in previous posts, do a search and you'll find what you need if the above thread doesn't answere all you questions.

[MacMcMacmac]

I purchased the twin disc master cylinder from parts n more for $76 when overhauling the front brakes on my Seca. It was well worth the money, well built, and increased braking power enormously (along with the braided lines of course). It is specifically made for the XS1100, so it should do you fine.

[trbig]

I disconnected the hose coming from my back M/C to the front. I didn't like the thought of a 25 year old proportion valve deciding for me how much brake pressure to send to the front. The harder you press the rear brake, the less it sends to the rear, and more to the front. I found a screw that fit and with some teflon tape, plugged the hole that the front line went into on the M/C. The proportioning valve is still trying to work though. The rear brake will slow you down nicely, but could never under any circumstances lock it up. I was going to see if the XS cylinder matched the bolt holes on the XJ for the rear, and try that at a later time. I would like to have a more solid brake for the rear.
As for the front, I still have just the one caliper working from the front brake handle with a rubber line. I'm sure it would benefit from a braided line, but has plenty of stopping power for me. I don't believe I could do a "stoppie".... but I really don't think I want to anyway! lol. I don't know if I'd want something with enough stopping power to make me a member of the "Over The Handlebars Club"... besides... I'm already a member of that! lol.

Tod

[50gary]

One way would be to get a front M/C from an XS11 (I'll bet an XS850 or even XS750 is the same M/C?) and run two seperate stainless steel lines, one to each caliper. This requires a double banjo bolt on the "new" M/C but these are available from the same place you'll get the lines. Most race bikes are done this way. I use Galfer S/S lines and fluid. For the rear just run a single line to the caliper from the rear M/C, then bleed. You'll have great brakes. I did this to an older model Gold Wing some years back, to me it feels more natural, and the front has the most stopping power. I currently run this set up on my XS11 but with an newer R1(2002 ebay) M/C that way it's new and doesn't need rebuilding, it does use a remote resevoir though.
Cheers, 50gary

[Fredjohny]

I took of the front and rear master cylinders....put back on the ones of a xs1100...the master cylinder volume per pump is differrent...I now have double disk front wheel braking, controlled by hand....and the rear is done by foot...the brake calipars are still from my XJ1100...Has worked for me for 3 years, excellent stopping even on gravel