Oil fouled Plug

[walter1970]

Well I took out the spark plugs to check the condition after a few days of starting up the old monster and the number one cylinder plug was oil fouled big time and the other three were ok, The bike only has 22,000 miles on it. I guess it will need the engine rebuilt.I still dont have the carbs working 100%. Man this sucks. Does anyone know how much someone would charge to rebuild a engine? I want to make sure it isnt too much. Any input would be appreciated,Thanks Walter

[mason79]

don't pon nick mun...

i would compression check it first before headtripin into a rebuild, it could be a stuck ring, or a valve seal, i'm not a real mechanic, just back yard stuff, but i read it here, i think

[Hired_Goon]

May not need a full rebuild. My XS sat for many years and as a result the valve seals hardened. This gives a bit of seepage when it stops and a puff of blue smoke on starting. Nothing bad enough to worry about rebuilding yet.

Before going too deep into it I would do a compression test to see if that one pot is low.


To check for valve seals, remove the header pipes and carb boots and look in each hole with a torch and look for oil on the valve stems.

Could also just be a bad plug not firing properly. Stick a new set in and see if it continues with the problem.

[Ljay40]

Walter

Has this bike been sitting for awhile before you got it and started it,
May have a stuck ring Give it a compression test first off before rebuilding and try some mavel mystery oil or similar products of your choice to loosen things up
Seems they can break themselves free after running for a bit as well.

Good luck

[trbig]

Give us some more information...

If this is a bike that has sat for an extended period, and you have just gotten it back to a running condition... I wouldn't be too quick to judge the motor. You could simply have an oil ring (Or any of the three actually) that is sticky still from sitting.
Do you know the bikes history for sure? Just because the odometer says 22,000 miles on it, doesn't mean that's what it is. these bikes are notorious for extending way beyond the 100,000 mile range, or in it's 25+ year history... maybe having several engines gone through that frame. Tell us what the numbers on the motor are stamped on the block right above where you put the oil in at. Like here...



If it was me personally, and the bike isn't knocking, spark plugs are fairly inexpensive. I would stick a new one in there and ride it for a couple hundred miles at least before making a judgement... and then only after taking the cylinders off and trying to see what is causing the oil problem. It's not very hard to get it to that point. Then you can measure the cylinder bore and decide whether to just re-ring that one cylinder and a light hone, or go all out with the over-bore kit.

Tell us more about your carb problems too. That can carbon up a plug pretty good too in a very rich state.

Tod

[HobbyMan]

Yeah, what they said. Is it oiled or caboned? I have heard it both ways. Definitaly clean the carbs and get it running a few hundred miles. That will definitaly help. Maby some Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinder over night wouldn't hurt.

[walter1970]

The guy I got it from bought it in 1997 until now,When I got it from him he said the carbs were acting up and the rear brake was locked up. So it sat for over 5yrs out in the elements. I fixed the rear brake but I dont think I have the carbs 100% fixed, i tinker with cars but I aint no motorcycle mechanic,lol,, You can only ride the bike for about 10 minutes and it starts cutting out and backfires!, The numbers on the crankcase is 2H7-006487, I might have to breakdown and let a motorcycle mechanic check it out. But I appreciate all of your input because I would like to do some of the work myself and save some money.,,Also the plug is wet with oil not carbon fouled.

[Hired_Goon]

Wet can simply be too much fuel. May be worth borrowing some carb sync tools to see if they are out. Or a search on "bench sync" may help in the short term.

[skids]

I am in agreement there. You might has a leaky fuel valve in that particular carb (with otherwise good octopus or petcock valve if there is no leaking with the bike is not running).

Originally posted by Hired_Goon
Wet can simply be too much fuel. May be worth borrowing some carb sync tools to see if they are out. Or a search on "bench sync" may help in the short term.

[Snow]

You'd be surprised what spraycan carb cleaner and some compressed air can do for even the worst soiled carbs! Just make sure to remove the floats before shooting compressed air willy-nilly and wear goggles (stuff comes flying out at pretty high speeds).

[HobbyMan]

How many times have you cleaned the carbs? It usually takes me about the 3rd time to get everything out, sometimes longer. Make sure that if you are feeding gas in from the tank, you should have some inline filters on it, or else you are just plugging them up again. When I first put mine on, I could literally see the junk what was plugging up my carbs. On road trips, I was having to stop every few hundred miles to drain my bowls. Also, If it had gas in it during its sit, the floats will be off. Even if they don't have holes in them, the tang will bend over time. MY left floats were about 2mm rich from sitting a few years. I wouldn't let a mechanic touch it untill I had exhausted every possibility. They don't even fix it 100% most of the time unless they really know the bike. BTW: I don't know how anyone survives without a synch tool. I don't rember how I did it without mine.

[HobbyMan]

forgot to add, Is it just the one cylinder that is acting up or the whole engine?