hot rod XS1100

[danno250]

Originally posted by audijunky
I actually had a pair of spring compressors(automotive) that I cut down with an angle grinder to fit motorcycle springs. Its kind of hairy, but if you get them compressed a little the top plate just slides off and then the spring comes right off. That is if your shocks look like mine. I have noticed a few styles for these bikes. If your feelin froggy slap a cutting disk on an angle grinder a cut them while they are on the bike. Put the bike on the center stand so the rear wheel is off the ground, this way there is as little pressure on the spring as possible. They are really not as compressed as automotive coil overs. Just be careful when finishing the cut cause they will pop a little. Come to think of it I did one side with the compressor and noticed how little it needed to be compressed and then just cut the other on the bike. If you do cut them cut on a pretty good angle so theres a pretty good flat spot where they rest on the shock.
About the smoke, I am pretty sure blue smoke is oil. I dont think it has anything to do with decelerating , it is just easier to notice cause theres not as much pressure pushing it out. And I dont know anyone who has the balls to be accelerating and looking back at the same time! As far as where to look for causes I am going to leave that up to the gurus. I am probably wrong about half the **** I've told you already. Semper Fi Devil Dog
PS I was at Pendleton too, Margaritaville 2000-2003
1st Mar Div HQ Battalion Comm Co

Oh yeah Devil, its for sure oil smoke. But it only does it when its winding down, I have checked many times dude. MANY. I really thing I just need to get another motor, any input on that Devil??

Semper Fi.

[Goin Commando]

I really thing I just need to get another motor,

No, you dont need another motor, this one is easy enough to fix.
If your bike has sat for any amount of time, say for a couple of years, then the rubber around the valve seals has dried out and gotten hard. This happens to 20 something year old bikes. When this happens they dont seal so good anymore. When you let off of the throttle you create a large vacuum in the intake tract and this sucks some oil past the old dry seals. A person could ride their bike like this for some time without any problems, but you would have to change the spark plugs and add oil more often. The little bit of oil you burn is not all bad,[unless you have to change your plugs once a week] as it helps lubricate the top of the cylinder parts and your exhaust will never rust out from the inside. You just have that skeeter fogging thing when you chop the throttle after a hard blast.

This is not as common but if you're unlucky, then the valve stems and guides are worn and a new set of valve seals will help very little. I have this kind of motor in my bike, no one wants to follow me.

[TomB]

Its not usual to get too much valve guide wear on engines with bucket shims unless the engine has done high mileage, this is because the bucket pushes the valve down perfectly straight down.

I own a '66 Triumph 500 and these engines suffer with guide wear because they have short rockers operating the valves, the end of the rocker moves through an arc so at some points exert a slight sideways pressure on the valve causing guide wear.

I would think that replacement guide seals would cure the oil burning.

A German friend of mine has a method of changing guide seals that involves using torn up strips of rag fed into the cylinder when on BDC then bringing the piston up compressing the rag hard against the valves to hold them up in place, after changing the seals you can drop the piston and pull out all the rag.

Seals changed without taking off the head

[Goin Commando]

Its not usual to get too much valve guide wear on engines with bucket shims unless the engine has done high mileage,

Or has been run without oil, hmm can anyone guess how I would know about this?

A German friend of mine has a method of changing guide seals that involves using torn up strips of rag fed into the cylinder when on BDC then bringing the piston up compressing the rag hard against the valves to hold them up in place, after changing the seals you can drop the piston and pull out all the rag.

Now this is a good idea!
In the past [on a Chevrolet engine]I have set the cylinder at top center, locked the rear wheel so it wouldnt move then used compressed air to hold the valves up. Either way you do this, you would still have to aquire the cool little spring compresser tool to get them apart. Now come to think of it you will not have enough room, in the holes that the springs set in, to use this tool.
Anyone have any good ideas on how to remove the valve spring keepers, with the head on the bike?

[mason79]

Originally posted by audijunky
Hey Danno ,
Sounds like you have the same ideas going for this monster that I have for mine.
I have lowered the back end of mine and extended the down tubes to keep the engine level. Your engine may be running funny because it is not sitting level. Hence the level of fuel in your float bowls may be affected. I am also looking for shorter shocks but in the mean time I just cut the springs on the stock ones. I think I took about two inches of with my angle grinder. Still rides bouncy but a little is better than none. I have also mounted a custom seat w/rear lip to keep my ass in place. The seat has springs which also helps a little. I also reused the rear section of the stock fender for the rear tire. welded some tabs on the drive shaft housing and the swing arm to bolt to so it moves with the tire. IMHO I think it was pretty cleaver. Heres a few pics
I have painted the tank flat black and also done some other work. It looks alot better now than in those photos.
Here is a link if your interested in extending the down tubes
http://www.cb750choppers.com/cb750/chop.html
I have done it with no problems yet. I used schedule 40 pipe though just for extra ridgidness.

hey audijunky, are those straight thru tail pipes how loud are they and what do they sound like?
how is the power curve on them?

[TomB]

Commando

Anyone have any good ideas on how to remove the valve spring keepers, with the head on the bike?

I use a piece of steel tube 1" diameter about 4" long with a wooden handle, the sides of the tube have been cut out to get to the collets and use a magnetic screwdriver to lift them out whilst pushing down BLOODY hard.

I sometimes have to enlist the help of The Domsetic Boss to lift the collets out while I grunt and swear and concentrate my efforts pushing down

[Goin Commando]

I use a piece of steel tube 1" diameter about 4" long with a wooden handle, the sides of the tube have been cut out to get to the collets and use a magnetic screwdriver to lift them out whilst pushing down BLOODY hard.

Yes, this is how I pictured it would happen.
I wonder how a pivoting lever set up would work, bolted to the head? Oop, i smell a new tool being constructed, or is that last nights chili
Maybe a bolt attatched to your 1" tube, to push down through a stand, bolted to the head? Would have to be compact enough to be used under the upper frame, on the intake side/middle cylinders.

[Pat Kelly]

with the head off the bike, removing the valve keepers is easy.
Put a shop rag (rolled into a ball) under the cylinder you're working on. This keeps the valves from moving.
Take a socket (impact is better but not necessary). Place it on top of the valve spring retainer with the square drive portion of the socket facing up (hex part down).
Smack the socket with a hammer (avoid fingers that are holding the socket). The keepers pop out.
I've done this hunderds of times sucessfully.

Reinstalling gets interesting without a valve spring compressor but it's possible. Last time on my Ford I used the shop rag like above. Using a drum brake shoe retaining spring tool I pushed down the spring retainer (pushing is an understatement, I leaned on it with all my weight). I was able to work the keepers into the groove on the valve through the openings on the spring tool.

When attempt at doing this on the XS it should be much easier because:
a) The valve springs should be smaller and easier to compress and:
b) I weigh 100 lbs more now and:
c) I have a son to assist

[audijunky]

Hey Mason,
Originally they were straight through loud as a mother, curve was off due to untuned carbs. Since I have put a done the washer in the tail pipe to add some back pressure and tuned carbs. Now Curve is feels good all the way to redline and sounds like a nascar(seriously) . She screams. Personally I love it but I dont think my neighbors are to fond of it Right now I am runnin open headers w/washers for back pressure. washers deadn the sound a little , I have not tried it open header no washer with carbs tuned yet.

[rogueinla]

Don't know where you're located at, but in the U Pick Parts in Sun Valley here in LA there's a 78 Standard, and laying next to it is a perfect tank. If you're not local, and you want it, call me at 818 481-8952, and I'll go get it, and ship it to you, just pay me what it costs. No emblems, and it's red, but no dents, and looked good. Also has a good seat laying there, gauges, turn signals front wheel, bars, if you want any of this, let me know and I'd be happy to get it for you, but let me know in a hurry, cuz the stuff goes fast there. I saw it on sunday, the 3rd, right at closing time, so it may still be there.