Hot rodded XS1100 needing turn signals.

[danno250]

Hello fellas. First of all, I love this site.
But, I need some advice and some help. I own a 79XS1100 that I bought completly gutted, it only had what it needed to run. No turn signals at all. So, my problem is that I need to put turn signals on it. I have after market, two wire lights already, but thats all. where can I get the bare minimum parts (signal selector switch, signal relay) and what ever else I might need. I dont even know what these parts look like. I wanted to use a cars relay, but I had no idea how to wire it, and I have no selector switch. Please help any way you can gents. Thank you for your time.

Semper Fi.

[audijunky]

Hey Danno,
Welcome to the site. If you have access to the internet, which apparently you do, You can do a search(google) for motorcycle hadlebar controls. Should bring up a broad selection. denniskirk.com also has these parts. You should look under your right side cover facing forward and under the fuse box should be a silver cylinder with a plug connected at one end. That is the existing turn signal relay. If it is missing do a search on this site for electronic flasher and you should get all the info you need. Good Luck

[wingnut]

Parts Guy

We have a member here who should be able to help you with your parts requests. Try a PM to andreashweiss

[oseaghdha]

There is a whole slug-o-parts on Ebay right now.

[danno250]

Thanks guys. I am going to tear into it first thing in the morning.!!!
I cant wait.

Semper Fi.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Danno,

Depending on how badly the PO gutted the bike and the wiring harness, you may be better off running the wires yourself, or even getting a replacement harness??

Your profile says your bike is the 79SF, which is the special, and so that makes it a little easier, cause you don't have any running lights, just signals. As was mentioned, getting a handlebar switch set will make it a bit easier, but you'll also need to get a copy of the wiring diagrams.....look in the LINKS section from the MAIN FORUM PAGE, NOT from the yellow column on the left!

The path will be from the fuse block to the flasher relay, then to the handlebar switch, then will branch off to the 2 left and then 2 right wires for each light, thru the lights and then to ground/frame.

Are your lights using standard 1156 style bulbs, or are they low current draw type bulbs? You may want to go with the electronic or electromechanical type flasher(2 prong) vs. the thermal kind to be able to work with the low draw type bulbs, or later LED's if you convert!

How are you switching low/high beams, as well as a horn without the handlebar switch assembly??
T.C.

[chopwatchagot]

You might be surprised at how many parts for these old rides are still available from Yamaha. Find a Dealer on the web and see if they have the OEM parts diagrams. Once in a while I get some parts from http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/pages/parts/home.aspx
They have decent prices and ship pretty quickly.
Mikes xs, also on the web, has a lot of stuff too that can be used on the 1100's.

[danno250]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by chopwatchagot
You might be surprised at how many parts for these old rides are still available from Yamaha. Find a Dealer on the web and see if they have the OEM parts diagrams. Once in a while I get some parts from http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/pages/parts/home.aspx
They have decent prices and ship pretty quickly.
Mikes xs, also on the web, has a lot of stuff too that can be used on the 1100's. [/

Hey there Topcat. The guy I got this old sweetheart from GUTTED her completly. Nothing but the bare minimum!! I have LED signals, and I plan on just running the wires my self just like you said. The head light has a switch on the back of it that turns it on, and goes from high beam, to low, with one switch. Its pretty cool. I dont have a horn, and dont plan on one. Thanks for the help man, I really thank you for it.

Danno.
Semper Fi.

[TopCatGr58]

I dont have a horn, and dont plan on one.

Hey Danno,

Doubt it'll pass inspection (if your state still has them?), without one! You might want to look into getting a handlebar switch assembly from a salvage yard, many of the turn signals allow you to cancel them by pushing the switch directly in towards the bars when in the middle position. It would also provide a horn switch that you could wire to! Our horns are simple circuits also, from battery, thru horn, then to switch which when pushed, grounds to bars/frame completing the circuit and horn toots!

I'm wondering how severely the PO stripped the rest of the bike, the ignition system to be specific? Your year requires the ballast resistor as part of the ig. coil circuit to keep from burning up the coils( 1.5 ohm). Later models, 81/82 changed to 3 ohm coils and got rid of the ballast resistor so the coils get full 12 volts all the time!

Have fun getting it "legal", and then riding it! Oooorah!
T.C.

[danno250]

I'm not sure about the ballast for the ignition. But I was also wanting to ask you another question. Is your tranny really clunky?? I ask because yesterday I was getting on her from a stoplight and really opening her up, and I could not believe how hard it was to shift her fast. I completly missed 3rd somehow. It makes alot of noise. Is this normal?
Thanks again!!

Semper Fi.

[TopCatGr58]

The Tranny is Clunky, just doing a search for "clunky tranny" and you'll find lots of notes!!!

There are a few adjustments that you may need to make to help provide you with the best ability and setup for shifting!

Are you using the clutch?! There is both the adjustment on the side of the engine, as well as at the handlebar, do the engine side first!

What oil are you running? General concensus is to NOT use pure synthetic! Castrol 20-50 or similar brand/range is suggested, just make sure there isn't anything in the lower half of the SAE seal on the bottle, NO friction modifiers which can contribute to clutch slippage.

Also, were you shifting UP or down when you missed 3rd. If shifting down, then your shifter return spring may be weak, and NOT resetting the shift pawl after the previous downshift.

If shifting up, there is a lot of torque on the tranny under throttle, a slight blip OFF of the throttle will assist in shifting. Also, what rpm are you shifting at. This machine is a strong and surprisingly higher revving one, but many people are afraid to rev it much past 5k....it AIN'T a HARLEY!! Revving it up to 5-6K before shifting also will help it to shift easier and quicker.

There is also a synchronization adjustment of the shift pawl and lever on the shift drum, but you have to remove the left shift cover to do it, and it's an oil chamber!
Hope this Helps?
T.C.

PS, have you checked the MIDDLE Drive and Final Drive gear oil levels?? Folks have burned up their middle gear due to loss of fluid!

[danno250]

Wow. You really sound like you know your stuff. And yes I was shifting up, and probably not going past 5k RPM's when I missed 3rd. I am scared of winding it very high too, it sounds like it will come apart. I guess I need to invest in a tach huh?? I checked the diff. oil level when I bought it, and it was good. And I am sure my clutch is working good. I may just need to rev it up higher. I sure thank you topcat. And thanks to all you guys out there for the help. I will for sure be asking many, many more questions.

Semper Fi.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Danno,

Thanks, but I'm just an enthusiast with "some" experience, there are many more knowledgable "TRUE GURU's" on here!

You mention the Differential, but many folks consider the REAR WHEEL differential as THE differential. THere is another hypoid gear chamber, the MIDDLE drive, similar large recessed hex head filler plug screw like the REAR Final Drive.

THere is an owner's Manual in the LINKS section, it's for an 81SH, but will still provide good basic info on maintanence, location of fluid chambers and such, about 6MB in PDF format, you might want to check it out?

Yes, a TACH would be very helpful, keep you out of the REDZONE and your engine safe while still allowing you to ring out all of the fun power these wonderful machines have to offer!

Problem is our bikes used an electronic tach, but take the pulses from the ALT circuit, not the coil circuit!! An aftermarket one could be used, but will need to be selectable for 1-2-4 cylinder modes. They run over $100.00, are automotive type.
T.C.