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  • #16
    'The Long-Winded One starts to blow again."

    they come off the stops and now rest against the top of the linkage between the carbs
    GENPIG, I believe Pat was referring to the synch linkages between the carbs. But yes, they all position themselves offa #3 as it has the idle screw.
    (The blow-hard blows....)
    Now then, the throttle butterflies. They are linked together by adjustment screws and springs to hold them in place. There is no slop in the system
    they come off the stops and now rest against the top of the linkage
    (or a negligible amount) so I don't see this happening. Though I may be wrong, or reading Pat's intent incorrectly.
    All the butterflies open in unison(by the linkage). What synch'ing does is to ensure that they all are in the same relative position. Once they are all the same, they will remain the same relative to each other. Vibration over time, and the twisting done to the carb bank when removing them and such, can get them out of synch.
    Now then... concerning at what RPM to synch them. Two methods to synch carbs: static and dynamic. Static, as in using the bread tie, or drill bit method, or vacuum, which is easier and quicker, but actually less accurate. (The loss in accuracy is so minimal as to be ludicris, but needed to be mentioned so that others could disagree and provoke arguements)
    I say bread tie is more accurate, as if done properly and exactly, you then will have achieved a perfect mechanical synch. (all butterflies open exactly to the same degree based upon their mechanical position, etc) But this is very hard to accomplish this way, as it's hard to gauge the adjustment drag of the bread tie from carb to carb, but from an engineering view, this would be the best method.
    (The idea behind synch-ing, is to have all carbs, by the position of their throttle plates, allow the same exact amount of air/fuel to pass through them.)
    The easy method(dynamic) is to measure the amount of vacuum generated (regulated by the position of the throttle plate) If the plate is closed a high vacuum will be generated in the manifold area... open the plate a little to allow more air to pass, and a lower vacuum is indicated. By adjusting the linkages between carbs, we get this vacuum even across the board and we say the carbs are synchronized. A good method, but with limitations.
    Now for the crux of this arguement... at what idle speed to synch at; and herein lies the problem.
    Vacuum synch-ing isn't so much aligning the throttle plates, as it is adjusting the vacuum. In a backwards way, the plates become adjusted as one fiddles with the vacuum measurement.
    Vacuum is a reflection of general cylinder condition. Vacuum is formed by the downward movement of the piston. (Ok, technically, the piston doesn't draw in air... atmospheric pressure pushes it in to the open space, but we can fight that battle later)
    You would have a fun time synchronizing carbs on an engine with low compression on one cylinder... like from a burnt exhaust valve. Due to the leaking exhaust valve, the draw from that cylinder (vacuum) would be lower than the others. You could mess with the adjustment screw and get the mercury lines all even, but the butterfly on that cylinder's carb would then be closed more than on the others. (The position of the butterfly determines the amount of fuel/air mixture allowed to pass) By restricting that carb, and raising it's measureable vacuum to be in line with the others, you have lessened the amount of fuel going into that cylinder, as compared to the others.
    Ok... this is an extreme example just to wildly illustrate the point. But on a more subtler degree, let's deal with the valve train.
    Valve clearances too tight/too loose determine how soon, or how late valves start to open, and how long they stay open. All these things determine vacuum. Differences between the cylinders also determine the amounts of vacuum. Inner cylinders run hotter than outboard cylinders, wear differently, and have different dynamic issues. So does engine speed. Again, all these things effect vacuum, as was noted previously that when one sets the synch at idle, it appears to be off when rpm's are raised. The mechanical synch hasn't changed at all, just the measureable vacuum has varied.
    So... while the static way of synch-ing, (bread tie or whatever), is technically more accurate as far as throttle position is concerned, mechanically it's very difficult to achieve and is a pain in the rectum to fuss with.
    I vacuum synch. (we use a digital gizmo at work which is about ten times more accurate than the mercury) And I vacuum synch at idle. Higher RPM's can change the flow dynamics of the clyinders. What also happens at higher RPM's is that the vacuum slide raises up a little which lessens the restrictiveness on the flow of air through the carbs which can also change your vacuum reading.
    The idea again behind synch-ing is to get all the throttle plates synchronized... open to the same degree, not to regulate vacuum. The vacuum reading is a convenient method used to measure of the degree that the plates are open.
    Adjusting carbs above idle is adjusting vacuum, while misaligning throttle plates.
    As always, I welcome comments that agree with my position.
    "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

    Comment


    • #17
      "Adjusting carbs above idle is adjusting vacuum, while misaligning throttle plates."

      O.K. we all know the bread-tie's way too big to give a normal idle but the revs are gonna be at 2000 or over, the best way's by eye, cover the pinholes exactly 2/3rds on each, which is easy to do, 'specially with a magnifying glass, I always balance my carbs at higher revs, I'm thinking the vaccuum's even up there closer to riding the bike, and she's runnin smoother...

      Comment


      • #18
        Holding these carbs at a lightbulb at the moment, all butterfly's fully closed - and heaps of leaks round the butterfly's perimeter.. none are the same.

        Comment


        • #19
          I get my bike at the 2000 RPM idle using the cruise control. Just turning the idle screw does nothing, at least for the reasons I set mine higher.
          I'm not saying I'm right, it's just what I do and why.
          I pre-sync my carbs if I've had them out and I do it by looking at the amount of light around the butterflies.
          I've always liked the term 'balancing' to syncing. You're making each cylinder share an equal amount of the work. No union cylinders that don't do as much work as the others but still get to go for the ride .
          Pat Kelly
          <p-lkelly@sbcglobal.net>

          1978 XS1100E (The Force)
          1980 XS1100LG (The Dark Side)
          2007 Dodge Ram 2500 quad-cab long-bed (Wifes ride)
          1999 Suburban (The Ship)
          1994 Dodge Spirit (Son #1)
          1968 F100 (Valentine)

          "No one is totally useless. They can always be used as a bad example"

          Comment


          • #20
            Ive got another question re syncing the carbs

            ive vaccuum sync the carbs at idle
            all are even
            my question is when i accellerate and decellerate
            the needles on the guages are all over the place
            until they cum back to idle then all guages are
            reading the same.
            prior to buying the guages i was syncing the
            carbs by holding them up 2 the light, when i
            had done them this way the motor was much
            smoother, proms point. i think this is more accurate.
            as pggg said tho not all the butterflys close
            completely 3 out of 4 do, by loosening the butterfly
            bolts on the shaft and mucking around a bit u can get them
            to sit closer and close that little bit more.
            i had to do this wen mucking about with the shaft seals.
            sorry 4 the story but the point i was getting at
            how do i adjust the carbs so the neeldles on the guages move in unison.

            i hope ive made sense.

            peter
            pete


            new owner of
            08 gen2 hayabusa


            former owner
            1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
            zrx carbs
            18mm float height
            145 main jets
            38 pilots
            slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
            fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

            [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

            Comment


            • #21
              just in relation to the 'stops' on the carbies.
              i dont understand what they are.
              my opinion unless im misunderstanding where u coming from (Pat)
              isnt the adjusting screw the actual stop and then when
              thats backed right off the butterflys are then pressed against the
              throttle body. to prevent it from going any further.

              peter
              pete


              new owner of
              08 gen2 hayabusa


              former owner
              1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
              zrx carbs
              18mm float height
              145 main jets
              38 pilots
              slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
              fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

              [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

              Comment


              • #22
                Each of the carbs' throttles are independant of each other.
                Example, carb #1 and #2
                They do contact each other via a tab that connects one carb to the next carb.
                That tab (carb #1) has the sync adjusting screw from #2 pressing down from the top. A spring (on carb #2) is under the tab (of #1).
                The tab of #1 is sandwiched between the screw and spring of #2.
                When you turn the screw the tab of #1 is moved up or down in realtion to #2, thus allowing to vary the vacuum read on each individual carb.

                Carb #3 is like homebase, it dosen't change. That's why you set carb #1 to #2. Then set #4 to #3. Then set 1-2 to match 3-4, because now 3-4 are homebase and don't move. Carb #3 is the one the idle speed screw (stop) affects and through the (tab,screw, spring) linkage affects the others.

                I may have some inherent characteristic that makes my carbs so sensative, maybe weak spring, loose screw (like I've never been accused of having a loose screw), flexing tab, worn throttle shaft seal(s), but....
                If I set mine at idle the bike idles nice. When I have the throttle cable pull the carbs to anything over idle the sync is off. Since I don't care if the idle is not synced and I do want it synced while I'm riding, I sync them at an RPM above idle.
                Pat Kelly
                <p-lkelly@sbcglobal.net>

                1978 XS1100E (The Force)
                1980 XS1100LG (The Dark Side)
                2007 Dodge Ram 2500 quad-cab long-bed (Wifes ride)
                1999 Suburban (The Ship)
                1994 Dodge Spirit (Son #1)
                1968 F100 (Valentine)

                "No one is totally useless. They can always be used as a bad example"

                Comment


                • #23
                  sorry Pat
                  i did misunderstood wher u were coming from
                  ive gotta stop reading these threads so late at nite
                  and even worse replying. lol

                  my carbs do the same thing when i adjust the screws
                  especially if u have a tight screw u tend to push down on them
                  harder, also i noticed if i adjust them off idle i figured it was the
                  throttle cable flexing.


                  peter
                  pete


                  new owner of
                  08 gen2 hayabusa


                  former owner
                  1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
                  zrx carbs
                  18mm float height
                  145 main jets
                  38 pilots
                  slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
                  fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

                  [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Re: 'The Long-Winded One starts to blow again.&quot;

                    Originally posted by prometheus578
                    I vacuum synch. (we use a digital gizmo at work which is about ten times more accurate than the mercury)
                    so who makes the digital gizmo and is it simply a differential manometer or does it also provide positive and negative pressure readings?

                    had looked at a digital manometer from UEi but the price was a little too much for my taste. sure would like to see someone come up with some schematics for a homemade version however.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      I believe it's made by a Belgian company. Called a Vacuummate. Motion pro is one of the distributors in the states, so I went to their site. Geez, the Darn thing costs $570. But, seeing how we use it several times a day around here, and it's capable of doing other things, It's well worth it.
                      (But geez... $570!)http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...e_all_weather/
                      "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

                      Comment

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