idle screw ?

[tjfisher30]

ok couldnt get the carbs right so i went to the forbiden screw that i didnt mess with when i rebuilt them well the last owner did mess with them they wer turned out about 4+ turns not good and he chewed up one of the srew and i will have to use a extrator to get it out to replace it now where cn i get one and does anyone have a part # for the idle mix screw

[importeater]

i tried to look up the part on bike bandit. i found one for my bike, but it says it's discontinued. i'm pretty sure the dealership wouldn't know the exact part # either. I would just try to find one from soneone with extra.

[John]

I think this is the correct part. The part in question is second from the bottom on the page.
You could also try motorcyclecarbs.com.

[tjfisher30]

sorry john what page are you taking about?

[John]

Ooops!?

I forgot to include the link, didn't I ? Duh!

Here it is:
http://mikesxs.com/mikesxs-fuel_syst...egory_id=4.4:o

[tjfisher30]

#2 carb is dead

ok so i killed my #2 carb the one with the vacunm port in it the passed owner messed with the idle screws and striped the head no biggie right well he tryed to drill it to and drill at a angle too well i broke my extrator in it now its hope less
so does any one have a left over somewhere i could buy?
or i just try and get luky on ebay i just need the body really

[Ken Talbot]

All is not completely hopeless yet, tjfisher30.

A broken extractor is a bother, but you can get at it with a dremel tool and some small diamond burrs. It won't be fast, but the diamond burrs will cut away the extractor. If you're really good, and very careful, you will be able to grind a slot across the broken extractor and maybe a bit of the remaining brass body of the screw. Then, very carefully with an impact driver and an appropriately small screwdriver bit, you should be able to pop the screw and extractor loose and remove them.

[tjfisher30]

turns out

one more question the manuls factory and clymer say 1 1/4 turn out is this a good setting cause i have been told to start a 2 1/2 turns out ?

[Ken Talbot]

It doesn't really matter where you set it to start, because you will have to colortune it or use the 'tune it by ear' method described here to find what is exactly right for your particular situtation. If you don't, whatever you set it at is going to be a compromise.

[TADracer]

I agree with Ken Talbot. The starting point should be 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 turns out but, the size of your pilot jet and the amount of vacuum signal you have at the carb will dictate your idle mixture setting. I use a good tach and make the idle about 900 RPM. Then I adjust each carb by turning the screw in 1/4 turn until the RPM drops and the engine begins to idle poorly. Then I turn out 1/4 turn at a time and watch the tach until the RPMs reach the point where they are the highest. Then I turn back in 1/4 turn and leave it there. Every time you turn a screw, allow a few seconds for the adjustment to take effect on the engine. After all carbs are adjusted I then adjust the idle RPM with the main screw until it reaches spec....1,150 RPM +/-.

[chopwatchagot]

along these lines...How do you get the aforementioned forbidden screw out with that pressed in thingamajiggy over it?

Dean

[tjfisher30]

i cut mine out with a dremel and a small cut bit just cut a slot out of it and i broke in half

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Dean,

I'm pretty sure I had posted a how to procedure on removing the pilot jet plugs on here before, but it's easier to retype it than to "do a search"(hint, hint for next time ) and post a link.

They are just brass plugs, and can be easily drilled, just need to be careful not to drill too far down and hit the pilot jets themselves. They are about 3/16" thick, just put some tape on the drill bit to mark depth, and drill with mild pressure so that when you break thru, you can stop pushing the drill. Then, get a sheet metal screw, screw it into the plug, and then use your plier of choice to wiggle and pry it out!
T.C.

[chopwatchagot]

thanks,TC. After posing that question I thought wait a minute , I can figure this out. So I measured the depth of the new cap, put some tape on a drill bit so as not to drill through too deep, drilled it and pulled it out with a bolt extractor. I like the sheet metal screw idea better though, so thats what i'll use on the next three.

Dean

[TopCatGr58]

Good job Dean,

Now as to putting the "new caps" back in, don't bother!! They were just put there by Yamaha to keep folks from messin' with them, due to the emissions control values and such. They aren't needed, this way you can tweak the pilot screws whenever you want!

Have you looked for that tunnel between the pilot jet tower and the main jet tower? IF you have it, then you can use the very large main jets, the 137.5, up to 145 for your intake and exhaust mods(IIRC), and put the pilot tower cap/plug back in!

But, if it doesn't have that tunnel, then you need to use the smaller jets, 110-120, and don't use the pilot jet caps, cause the pilot jets need to draw fuel directly from the float bowl, NOT thru the Main jet(that's what that tunnel is for in the other style!)
T.C.