Trouble ...maybe

[79XS11F]

OK with the top end and piston kit running OK I may have another issue relating to the trany.
Should I be able to put the trany through all the gears with no load on it while the engine idles? With the bike on the center stand I can put the trany through all the gears by hand while turning the rear wheel BUT with the engine running at idle ... I can drop it into 1st no problem but it is not smooth at all going up into 2nd and will not go into any gears higher then that.

I am sure I have the shift forks in the way they were but now question myself and also want to know can the trany even be put together if the shift forks are not in the correct positions? Would I even be able to put it through all the gears by hand if put together wrong?
Rob

[DiverRay]

Rob,
Are you trying to shift through the gears, one down, and then 4 up, one at a time?
You should be able to shift down into first, then up and release for second, up again and release for third, etc. You DO need to release the shifter each time, and should be able to feel it go into the "neutral" position after each gear change.
If the trans has been assembled wrong, you can pull it with the engine in the frame. I found it easy to drain all fluids, pull battery, and flip the bike onto its back.
Ray

[TopCatGr58]

Rob,

You say you CAN shift up with the engine off, but turning the rear wheel! With the engine running, on the centerstand, are you allowing the rear wheel to spin, by releasing the clutch after you shift into each gear, before trying to shift up into the next gear?

The tranny doesn't like to shift unless the rear wheel is spinning, driving at speed or slowing down. If you're able to shift it by spinning the rear wheel, then it's probably assembled correctly, and you just need to get out there and RIDE!!

Remember, varying rpms, no FULL THROTTLE for usually 500 miles. But others may chime in with different break in techniques, your choice!
T.C.

[79XS11F]

Originally posted by DiverRay
Rob,
Are you trying to shift through the gears, one down, and then 4 up, one at a time?
You should be able to shift down into first, then up and release for second, up again and release for third, etc. You DO need to release the shifter each time, and should be able to feel it go into the "neutral" position after each gear change.
If the trans has been assembled wrong, you can pull it with the engine in the frame. I found it easy to drain all fluids, pull battery, and flip the bike onto its back.
Ray

No ... With the engine not running and the clutch pulled in I am rotating the rear wheel by hand and I can go through all the gears but it feels "stubborn". I am allowing the shifter to return to the neutral position between each gear change. However with the engine idling it is VERY stubborn. The changes can be made through a far amount of Resistance and sometimes I and hear and feel the gears bouncing instead of just going into place.

Also ... Could this be a clutch not fully disengaging issue. I did notice that the rear wheel moves very slowly when the bike is in neutral but this movement can be stopped very easily by hand and does not move again after being stoped . I adjusted the clutch as per the manual. light contact, 1/4 turn out and lock it down without allowing the center screw to move
Rob

[79XS11F]

Originally posted by TopCatGr58
Rob,

You say you CAN shift up with the engine off, but turning the rear wheel! With the engine running, on the centerstand, are you allowing the rear wheel to spin, by releasing the clutch after you shift into each gear, before trying to shift up into the next gear?

The tranny doesn't like to shift unless the rear wheel is spinning, driving at speed or slowing down. If you're able to shift it by spinning the rear wheel, then it's probably assembled correctly, and you just need to get out there and RIDE!!

Remember, varying rpms, no FULL THROTTLE for usually 500 miles. But others may chime in with different break in techniques, your choice!
T.C.

Yes TC I can get it through all gears even if stubborn by rotating the rear wheel by hand. No I was not allowing the rear wheel to spin because I don't have middle gear oil in there yet. It would just be such a shame to blow the trany after confirming that the Wisco kit is running well. I am however "guessing" that if the trany was put together wrong I would not get in into all gears even by hand moving the rear wheel.
Rob

[TopCatGr58]

Originally posted by 79XS11F

Also ... Could this be a clutch not fully disengaging issue. I did notice that the rear wheel moves very slowly when the bike is in neutral but this movement can be stopped very easily by hand and does not move again after being stoped . I adjusted the clutch as per the manual. light contact, 1/4 turn out and lock it down without allowing the center screw to move
Rob

Rob,

The rear wheel and related secondary gears can spin just from the pressure of the oil and the nearby spinning gears. Being able to stop is by hand, and have it NOT begin again is definitely NOT the clutch.

PLEASE put the middle gear oil in ASAP, have heard of several folks burning up their middle gear due to shops or themselves forgetting that they didn't fill it!
T.C.

[79XS11F]

Originally posted by TopCatGr58


Rob,

The rear wheel and related secondary gears can spin just from the pressure of the oil and the nearby spinning gears. Being able to stop is by hand, and have it NOT begin again is definitely NOT the clutch.

PLEASE put the middle gear oil in ASAP, have heard of several folks burning up their middle gear due to shops or themselves forgetting that they didn't fill it!
T.C.

LOL that will not happen I have a wrench sitting in the fill plug as a reminder am hoping that the stubbornness of the trany is because this engine has not be used for some time but only has 17483 miles on it. Perhaps use will loosen things up a little.
Rob

[mro]

Are your sure the shifter/shift shaft are adjusted???
To be done in second gear.


mro

[79XS11F]

Originally posted by mro
Are your sure the shifter/shift shaft are adjusted???
To be done in second gear.


mro

While I was putting it together I checked the marks and they were lined up perfectly. That of course can alway be double checked and I will do that if the trany remains stubborn in use. While the trany was apart I checked everything and all the gears and shift forks were in very good shape. there was very little visible wear on any of the parts. I am still "guessing" that if I had put the shifter forks in wrong I would not be able to put it through all the gears. All I did it there was switch out the spacer location. It did seem to me at that time that the shifter drum was "clunky" but there was no sign of anything out of place or out of spec.
Rob