#1 Exhaust Pipe Cold & Oil in Airbox

[Nitrogary]

Just purchased my 79 XS1100. It will start and run but dies if not twisting the throttle a bit. #1 exhaust pipe is cold and there is oil in the airbox. Removed the #1 spark plug and sprayed some WD-40 in it, then started it. Spark plug wire zapped me, so I know its getting spark. Shot the WD-40 out the spark plug hole also, so it has compression. What could be causing the #1 cylinder to not operate? I am trying to restore the bike and give it the love it deserves, but I am lacking in the more technical aspects of repairing it. Waiting on my Shop Repair Manual to arrive:-) Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

[Czekus21]

First of all, Get a manual, Then you might want to invest in a compression tester to verify that the compression is within spec between cylinders. You may want to pull the valve cover and check out your valves. Sounds like you may have a bad intake valve seat and/or seal. Cold exaust= not fireing. spark plug good? Not fouled? A few steps to check and get the ball rolling in this thread.

[Czekus21]

Oh,,!!!! I forgot to mention,, Welcome aboard. Everything you could ever want to know ( as well as some you could live without )
is here on this forum. Check out the tech tips on the left of the screen.

[prometheus578]

Several things: Oil in the airbox is caused by too much oil in the engine, the excess of which will travel up the crankcase breather tube into the airbox, but I don't think that's the case.
#1 is not firing, but getting spark. You, sir, have a fuel problem. (common with old bikes and bikes that have set a spell)
It's my firm conviction (which is about the only thing that I have that still gets firm) that carb #1 is flooding. I'll bet that the spark plug from #1 is wet and fouled. Either the float is sticking, or the float needle isn't sealing and allowing too much gas to flow to that carb, fouling the plug, and allowing the excess fuel to flow into the airbox, where it mixes with the dirt and oil on the airfilter, giving the appearance of the airbox leaking oil.
And furthermore, it is also my contention that if fuel is going into the airbox, it's also flowing the other way; through the manifold, past the rings and into the crankcase, in which case, after fixing the carbs(clean all four), one should change the oil.
Moreover... fuel in the crankcase will raise the oil level to the point where it will then gravitate to the airbox anyway. Something to check for. (oil level is checked with the bike level, on the centerstand, not the side stand. Don't laugh...it's been done before)

( Everything you could ever want to know ( as well as some you could live without)

Czecus should have said, "Some PEOPLE you could live without"
Not everyone here is a pompus blowhard... but I am!

Welcome to the show, Nitrogary.
Seriously, carb #1 is probably flooding. Unscrew the drain plug and see what kind o' crap comes out of the float bowls. That'll give you a general idea of the condition of the carbs. Probably all due fer a cleanin', and new float needles, too. Plenty of tips on this site (and in the tech areas), and plenty of people to answer your questions.

[TopCatGr58]

Aside from the tech tips on the left, also from the MAIN FORUM page, scrolling down, you'll find lots of other tips as well! I know it's time consuming, but PLEASE READ THEM! There are certain things that need to be done certain way or very Xpensive damage to internal parts can be done!

BTW, before you run the engine again, check the OIL for gas! Put a metal stick down thru the filler plug holes, get oil on it, and then pull it out, step AWAY from the bike, and then try to light the oil with a lighter/match. IF it lites, then there's gas contamination!
You'll want to change the oil IMMEDIATELY, don't run it that way or you can cause severe damage to the crank and other bearings!

But also as has been said, CLEAN THE CARBS, or you'll have this problem again! Welcome to the club!!