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Problem With Front Caliper

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  • #1

    Problem With Front Caliper

    I have an 80 XS1100SG, (engine # designated 3J6). The Yamaha manual has a supplementary for this model. The standard model uses the same style brake pads front and rear. This 3J6 model has different pads in the front, dual discs. The caliper is held in place by one vertical bolt that threads into a casting on the forks. Calipers have been rebuilt and new pads have been installed. There is a thick washer that goes between the caliper and the fork casting. When all of the play is taken out of this vertical bolt, (when there is no gap between the caliper and the casting) the wheel spins freely and the brakes work as they should. There is a lock washer and nut that keeps the vertical bolt from backing out of the threaded casting on the forks. The wheel spins freely and the brakes work perfectly until either the vertical bolt is tightened or the locking nut is tightened. I'm assuming this caliper is supposed to float and should have some slight lateral movement when properly tightened. What is the correct way to assemble/tighten this setup?

    Thanks,
    Steve
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Spacer?

    Do you have the spacer installed? There should be a spacer that inserts into the caliper to prevent caliper from tightening on fork leg.
    "Elvira"
    '80 XS1100LG

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    • #3
      According to my Clymer manual, the setup is like this.

      Thin washer and spacer installed onto the bolt. Then bolt is fed up through the caliper. Then over the bolt install the thick washer and there should be an O ring on top. Thread the whole mess into the fork and torque to 18 Ft. Pounds. The install lock washer and nut on top to lock the threads. The caliper should be able to rotate as the pads wear.

      Hope this helps.
      Mike Giroir
      79 XS-1100 Special

      Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.

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      • #4
        Yep, What he said.
        "Elvira"
        '80 XS1100LG

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        • #5
          I polished and lightly lubed all inserts and spacers, torqued the bolt and secured it with the lock washer and nut on the top. The caliper on the left side moves freely. I then installed the pads on the left side, installed the retaining pin and lock spring and the wheel spins freely with just moderate drag. When attempting to do exactly the same on the right side, the pads are difficult to insert and when completely assembled there is too much (unacceptable amount) of drag. I've loosened the pinch bolt on the right side, set the gap between the fork right in the middle but can't seem to reduce drag on the right caliper. I've lightly sanded the corners of the pads in case some high spots may have been causing the problem. Everything is clean and looks good but cannot reduce drag on right side. When the wheel is rotated with some difficulty the rotors appear to run true, (no dial indicator used, just the naked eye). The right side's got me baffled. Need help, thanks.

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          • #6
            I think you may need to clean the calipers and the master cylinder. Have you changed the brake fluid lateley? Read the tech tips concerning the spooge hole in the master cylinder. I believe checking and cleaning will alleviate your problem. It sounds like you have everything installed correctly. Do you notice that the brakes drag worse just after you have applied them. If so then it is definitely what I suggest.
            2 - 80 LGs bought one new
            81 LH
            02 FXSTB Nighttrain
            22 FLTRK Road Glide Limited
            Jim

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            • #7
              IS this with the brake hose on or not. When the caliper is disconnected frome the brake line and you have pushed the piston in fully, the brake assembly should slide on the rotor with minimal friction. Also, Make sure that the pad is seated fully in the caliper, i.e. the little screw must be inserted through the hole on the base plate of the pad. If it is not set on, the pads caliper wont slide on or it will drag quite a bit. I am not sure the diffence between the G and SG but that is how it is on the F and G models.
              United States Merchant Marine Academy, Kings Point, NY
              If I can do it at 18 yrs old, anyone can
              "You know something, You can't polish a turd"
              "What are you rebelling against", "Well, what do you got?"
              Acta Non Verba

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              • #8
                On the standard model (G) the front and rear brake calipers are the same. On the SG, LG the front brakes are different and thus so are the pads. Check out the Yamaha parts schematics on

                http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/my...starthere.aspx

                You can see the differences between the models. I still say a good cleaning of the calipers and master cylinder will do the trick. More then likely you don't have the piston in far enough to install easily. If they are dirty it doesn't do any good to compress them because they will just drag anyway.
                2 - 80 LGs bought one new
                81 LH
                02 FXSTB Nighttrain
                22 FLTRK Road Glide Limited
                Jim

                Comment

                • #9
                  You were right cajun31. I soaked the master cylinder, blew it out with air and rebuilt it and thought everything was fine but you hit the nail on the head. I worked at the little orifice with a guitar string and when I manipulated the brake lever I could see brake fluid backing through the hole. Brakes work fine now. Thanks a million, you saved me a lot of grief. Thanks for all the other replies. Lots of great information.

                  Steve

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