? on jet identification

[77crewcab]

On this page: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=73 it lists all the jets and what they are supposed to be set at stock. But I can't figure out what the Start and Main Air jets are and where they are located. Can someone tell me where they are since Clymers doesn't list those jets (at least not by those names)

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Crew,

This picture below shows where the Air Jet screws into, but the arrow is pointing to a permanent air vent, the AIR JET is the lower left hole!!


Below is another fine photo from Ken Talbot, it shows the small "JET" in the float bowl...pressed in, it's the jet that meters fuel up into the fuel enrichener circuit, is easily clogged with varnish so be sure carb cleaner spray will blow thru it, don't forget eye protection!

T.C.

[77crewcab]

Could someone help me with a pic of the needle assy. breakdown. I searched and can't seem to find what I am looking for. The order the needle and spring is put into the diaphram cup is what I am looking for. Mine came out different than what Clymer's shows and I am trying to tell if I am missing pieces. I know that the carbs were gone through by the PO but can't tell if they were put back together correclty or not. I guess pics of a break down of the entire diaphram/needle assembly is what I really need. Also my needles only have one slot for the e-clip and not three for adjustment as shown is Clymers. Is that correct?

[knewsom]

The needles are different on different models - some have notches, some don't... but as far as I know, the assembly should be as such, bottom to top along the needle:

spring, washer(s) (your model you add or subtract washers to raise or lower the needle), e-clip, little plastic washer thingie, larger plastic thing with the longer piece that holds it in place, then the c-clip that holds the larger plastic bit in place.

hope that helps

[77crewcab]

Hmm... seems I am missing some parts then. The way I removed the needle from the carb was: needle,plastic washer with index nub, e-clip, metal washer, spring, brass retaining plate with 2 screws. all sitting in the bottom of the diaphram cup.

So the spring is supposed to go in the cup first, then the needle with metal and plastic washers with e-clip at the top of the needle? Anyone have any actual pics of this? I am not sure what to do. I'll try to get some pics up of what I have later today if that will help clear up any confusion.

[Brian_D]

77crewcab,

Your needle assembly orientation is correct for the non-adjustable needles from the '80 - '81 carbs --- or at least that is the way they are assembled on my '81 LH.

[77crewcab]

Cool! Thanks!

[pggg]

Yeah there's 2 air jets, one for the whole circuit, one for the pilot circuit, the one arrowed in TC's pic is the MAIN AIR JET pressed in and unadjustable(unless ya drill it out for fun! Don't though!) the threaded hole takes the PILOT AIR JET, usually a 180 or 210 size.

[77crewcab]

Well I currently have 110 mains, 42.5 pilots, 185 pilot air, 135 butterlies on each carb. I also have a jardine 4-2 with bobbed mufflers with only 1 baffle per side welded in. I am able to get a good idle at 1000 rpm with the idle mix 1 1/2 turns out and seems to be good throttle response. (haven't riden it yet) But when I rev it and then let the butterflies snap shut it does take a while for the rpm to float down back to idle. But the popping when coming down in rpm is much better if not completely gone. I know I need to replace all vacuum/fuel lines. Is there anything else I should check before I start changing jets?

[pggg]

Hey 77 unscrew the idle screws a bit more and see what happens but you really need to be riding it to tune it better. Float levels another one. Too lean.

[skids]

I would try the below, but first do the easy stuff like replacing the rubber hoses and add synching the carbs.

Originally posted by pggg
Hey 77 unscrew the idle screws a bit more and see what happens but you really need to be riding it to tune it better. Float levels another one. Too lean.

[77crewcab]

Well been tinkering around with it tonight and also trying to adjust the cam chain. Idle seems to be doing well after replacing a few hoses. Didn't have enough on hand to do all of them. On the cam chain adjustment I backed off the jamb nut and then loosened the bolt then retightened in reverse order. I was expecting to hear or feel something but didn't. However it does seems to runn a little better, though it still has a good bit of vibration. Is that normal? Am I supposed to be able to tell when the chain has adjusted? I will be working on checking the valve lash tomorrow.

[skids]

You won't hear the "audible click" with the tensioner adjustment unless you take the thing off and cock the mechanism so that it moves a lot when you release the stopper bolt. Some day you might want to adjust the cam chain and then remove it in the adjusted position to measure its remaining reserve capacity. When it runs out of adjustment length, the adjustments are useless.