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Been running Pods for several years. First got the ugly CAN style, Unifilter brand, just foam cylinders with flat chrome caps, from JCW. Recently put on the cone shaped ones from BikeBandit. Was concerned with the lip that sticks out into the center where they mount to the carbs, causing air flow restriction into the air ports at the inlet bell. So...I created some velocity stack types mounts for them. I posted a thread with photos about it, I'll try to find it and post a link!
Some folks have had problems with some, would only rev to about 6 k, running very rich...again, attributed to air restriction, but this can vary depending on what brand you get!
T.C.
T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case! History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
I was thinking of using K&N ovals. Costly at 133 USD but I would really like to loose my air box for the easy re & re of the carbs and nicer look :-)
any other cheaper options that work well and look good?
Here's one by Jessie, modifying your existing intake tubes Existing Intake Tubes for the pod filters.
T.C.
T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case! History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
less exhaust restriction does need a bit more fuel (10-15%on the main jet is a good place to start,Needles may need to be lifted a notch....) But does not cause too much difficulty.
Running open filters on CV carbs (as fitted to all XS11's.....) can cause HUGE problems! These carbs rely on the vacuum caused by the engine sucking against the air filter to lift the slide up out of the carb. That is why the little port you see at the side of the carb mouth is connected to the chamber above the diaphragm-go and try it; if you suck on that little port, the diaphragm pulls the slide up! ( use a straw!!)
If the draught from the engine cannot lift the slide (either 'cos the diaphram is split, or there is no air filter to suck against) the slide stays down, and you have no power! Usually if you rev it hard enough, the slide will eventually pop open, with a burst of air and fuel, giving the impression that there is lots of top end power, when in fact there is merely no mid-range!
If you are determined to fit cone filters to CV's you have to fool them into thinking there is still a filter box. Ledar corrector kits fitted a restrictor to the Diaphragm port(sometimes with an extension tube) dynojet do something similar. Bodgers can cover about 70-80% of the cone filter's surface with gaffer tape. This looks ridiculous, but works very well. Leave the "hole" in the tape covering at the bottom, or they fill up with water!
Later carbs(Post XS1100!) have the diaphragm ports on the other side of the carb ie, on the engine side of the slide, not the filter side! this means that the carb is little affected by the filter; more air coming through opens the slide more, and (by lifting the needle!)provides more fuel. This makes these carbs very adaptable; almost self-adjusting!
This is why lots of car tuners are fitting bike carbs, with great results!
My SG is fitted with 36mm carbs from a GSXR750 slingshot, and 2-1 K&N filters. It gives 95 bhp(from 70 stock on the same dyno) with a beautiful flat torque curve. I have already droned on about how to fit them on a couple of posts, so I won't do it again here!
Suffice to say, I would not take a brand-new set of stock carbs for free!!
Originally posted by gaffer77 Hi this is a quote from www.xs1100.co.uk
less exhaust restriction does need a bit more fuel (10-15%on the main jet is a good place to start,Needles may need to be lifted a notch....) But does not cause too much difficulty.
Running open filters on CV carbs (as fitted to all XS11's.....) can cause HUGE problems! These carbs rely on the vacuum caused by the engine sucking against the air filter to lift the slide up out of the carb. That is why the little port you see at the side of the carb mouth is connected to the chamber above the diaphragm-go and try it; if you suck on that little port, the diaphragm pulls the slide up! ( use a straw!!)
If the draught from the engine cannot lift the slide (either 'cos the diaphram is split, or there is no air filter to suck against) the slide stays down, and you have no power! Usually if you rev it hard enough, the slide will eventually pop open, with a burst of air and fuel, giving the impression that there is lots of top end power, when in fact there is merely no mid-range!
If you are determined to fit cone filters to CV's you have to fool them into thinking there is still a filter box. Ledar corrector kits fitted a restrictor to the Diaphragm port(sometimes with an extension tube) dynojet do something similar. Bodgers can cover about 70-80% of the cone filter's surface with gaffer tape. This looks ridiculous, but works very well. Leave the "hole" in the tape covering at the bottom, or they fill up with water!
Later carbs(Post XS1100!) have the diaphragm ports on the other side of the carb ie, on the engine side of the slide, not the filter side! this means that the carb is little affected by the filter; more air coming through opens the slide more, and (by lifting the needle!)provides more fuel. This makes these carbs very adaptable; almost self-adjusting!
This is why lots of car tuners are fitting bike carbs, with great results!
My SG is fitted with 36mm carbs from a GSXR750 slingshot, and 2-1 K&N filters. It gives 95 bhp(from 70 stock on the same dyno) with a beautiful flat torque curve. I have already droned on about how to fit them on a couple of posts, so I won't do it again here!
Suffice to say, I would not take a brand-new set of stock carbs for free!!
Hope this helps!
It is always good to get advice form others in regard to carb setups. When you refer to the "diaphragm ports" do you mean the curved slot shaped openings on the air filter side of the carbs at the top of the mouths? Also I understand what you mean but don't understand the "fix" could you post a link to your threads or posts about the "fix"
Thanks
Rob
i just installed these pods, wondering what to do with the extra hoses that use to run to the breather box....running rich, and rough....any help would be appreciated here. must say i do like the look though.
Those extra tubes are bowl vents, and need to be vented. You can connect the two hoses from the 2 pairs of carbs to a "T" fitting, then run the 3rd hose from the "T" into a little filter, or just a long tube secured up under the tank, just make sure it doesn't get kinked, needs to breath!
Rob, my bike works just fine, it's not just ON and OFF, it has a good easy throttle response throughout the rpm range.
Jessie, yes, yes, yes, YOURS do look quite handsome. One of the chrome caps fell off and got lost! I had to cut a bottom off of a tin can to glue on the end! Moved it to the inner position, less visible there. But I just like the cone shapes better, more chrome on them!!
Hey Gaffer, appreciate the info. I know when I was checking my carbs, I would blow into that curved vent hole, and the slides would pop right up, but the air is going thru the carb. So I'll have to investigate a bit further on what you've said, but I think the channel that provides suction to raise the slides is inside or forward of the inlet bell, cause the arced inlet bell opening allows the air to flow INTO the carb. When folks have put some pods on that restrict the airflow for that vent, then the slides rise more due to increased amounts of vacuum building up above the slide/rubber diaphragm since the vent can't flow as much air, causing the overly rich condition. Removing that restriction allows the slide vent to breath better, so the slides dont' rise too much/inapropriately to the amount of vacuum being applied.
T.C.
T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case! History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
Mon, 10 Jul 2006 12:51:40 -0700
Subject: Re: XS1100 Yamaha Motorcycle
From: "tech" <tech@aperaceparts.com> Add to Address Book Add Mobile Alert
To: "Johncarlton Riggs" <rjohncarlton@yahoo.com>
on 7/7/06 3:01 PM, Johncarlton Riggs at rjohncarlton@yahoo.com wrote:
They looked just like the K&N individual filters; but were not K&Ns. Your own "generic" type. I didn't think they had a brand name. The oval, individual filters, for the Mikuni carburetors on the Yamaha XS11s. Excellent quality. At that time, they were 4 for $60.00 . Are they shown on your website; the ones you're referring to? or the ones I'm describing?
jcr
005-121 are the filters you are describing. they are still $60 a set of four and in stock.
Let me know if you would like to order them. Thanks, taige
Guys; above, is an email I recently exchanged with "American Performance Engineering" in California. These are exact replicas of the big buck$ K&Ns. NO AIR RESTRICTION SHOULDER! I have bought 2 sets of these over the years. This is the only way to go. That stinkin' big air box, keeps you from being able to "see what's goin' on" with yer motersickle. And, you can get your hands in places, to do things around and about your carburetors.
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