Help with valves!

[Radiation]

Well, I checked my valves ;
Intake shim size
specs .11-.15
1- .076 270
2- .127 260
3- .152 280
4- .064 270

Exhaust shim size
specs .21-.24
1- .152 285
2- .203 280
3- .203 275
4- .127 280



Since they were almost all tight I figured I would do them all. I pulled the cams and replaced with the appropriate shims, according to the Excel spreadsheet. When I put everything back together and went to check them, I got these readings
Intake shim size
specs .11-.15
1- .330 235
2- too thin 275
3- too thin 320
4- .406 220


Exhaust shim size
specs .21-.24
1- .508 225
2- .279 270
3- .254 265
4- .483 200

Intake #2,3 were too thin to measure.
I am going to put valve cover back on and run it a bit and recheck. What did I do wrong?! Did I miss something?

[trbig]

According to those specs...
on intake side.. #1 You needed a 265
#2 You needed a 265
#3 Was actually OK, but on the far side of spec. You could have used a 285
#4 you needed a 265


On Exhaust side... #1 You needed a 275
#2 You needed a 275
#3 You needed a 270
#4 You needed a 270

With those valves having NO clearance, I wouldn't ride your bike until you get it shimmed right. If a valve is staying slightly open and you run it, you have a possibility of bending a valve from the piston hitting it, or burning a valve or valve seat!

A guy came on here a couple weeks ago with different specs for the clearances of his valves on his XS. Anybody else have a book out there for his '80 XS?? These are the same specs as my '82 XJ, and just wanting to make sure he's looking at the right info...

Tod

[79XS11F]

Take the plugs out and turn it over VERY carefully by hand a few times to FULLY seat the shims then check the measures again. Make sure your checking the gap with the cams in the exact correct location each time or the number will be different.
Rob

[mro]

Shim Chart G and SG (intake)

From Yamaha's manual, note that it's metric



________

I use the shim tool (motion pro) so don't have to remove cams.
After new shims installed. Disconnect TCI. Crank enngine few seconds and check clearance. All good??? Don't forget to plug TCI back in


mro

[mro]

try this

could not read above


mro

[Radiation]

What the?

I used the sheet that is on this site to get my numbers. I thought it figures it all out for you.
I have the plugs out and I have been turning it by hand.
I didn't have the shim tool at the time. My local Yamy dealer said they could order it for $39.95. I then went to a local shop and got my shims.( I paid $5.95 each- Yamy shop wanted $15.95) While I was there I checked and they had the MP shim tool buried on a back shelf. They sold it to me for $12.
Right now I am just trying to put my original shims back in and start over. The problem is that I can't get the #2 intake out, even with the shim tool. Still not enough clearance to remove it.

[trbig]

The problem is that I can't get the #2 intake out, even with the shim tool. Still not enough clearance to remove it.

OFF WITH YER HEAD!!! lol... just kidding. Your next option then may be to take off your exhaust cam..... and since it's coming off, might as well take the intake off also. It just makes this job SOOOOO much easier. If you don't have a manual for your bike, you can do a search in here on how to do that, but I suggest you get one before doing this. It's not hard to do, but it is easy to mess up and bend valves... (Go ahead and ASK me how I know!) lol.

There's no need to put the originals back in. They were seated and measured right. Just follow the chart that MRO has pictured. It will show you what I told you that was needed. See if that local shop will let you reteurn those shims and swap for the right ones. Just tell them you messed up... didn't run the bike on them at all. 50/50 chance maybe... lol.

Tod

[Radiation]

Probably will.

I think I am going to have to remove it.
I have a shop manual. I bought it before I brought the bike home. Is there anyway to make ABSOLUTELY certain that I have my cams set right? I marked them before I removed them, but with the way things are going, I have been having self doubts.
I would hate to do all this and end up being off a tooth.

[mro]

ABSOLUTELY certain that I have my cams set right?

Clymer manual, it starts about page 67

Yamaha manual, page 3-46 (1978-80 service manual)

Should read through it couple times before installing cams, then leave open to page and check as your doing it.



mro

[mro]

shim tool

Had to do a little grinding on my shim tool to jet it to work.

Still sometimes need to remove it and try agin to get it positioned to hold a bucket down properly.



mro
btw
tool modification has been posted before. Do a search and you shouls find it.

[79XS11F]

the tools tip goes in the notch eh and a magnet tool is REAL handy to remove the disc's. I use a STRONG rare earth magnet to get them out .
Rob

[Ken Talbot]

When I did mine, I turned the notch to the inside, and put the tip of the tool onto the rim of the bucket. This let me use a jewellers screwdriver in the notch to flick up the edge of the shim, then of course the magnet to pull it out. I wouldn't think you'd get anywhere near enough clearance to get the shim out if you had the tip of the tool set down in the notch.

[79XS11F]

I still have my factory tool from 1980 ( I never get rid of tools) and the lip that contacts the basket is adjustable for length so you can set it up to account for being in the notch.
Rob

[trbig]

Bill,

With your cams off, you will need to make sure you take off the left side cover and put your timing mark to the "T" before you try to install the cams back on. Also, tie the cam chain to the frame somehow so it can't drop back into the motor.

Is there anyway to make ABSOLUTELY certain that I have my cams set right? I marked them before I removed them, but with the way things are going, I have been having self doubts.

When you install your cams back in, if you look, they are already marked. Just line the timing dot up inline with the top of your cam caps....



Also, all your caps have arrows on them. You want them pointed to the right side (Alternator and clutch side) of your bike. Get a flashlight before you turn anything and make SURE that the chain is around the gear on the crank in the bottom of the motor. My chain was beside the crank gear when I installed mine... so when I turned the engine around to check timing, the cams didn't move and I bent lots of valves.

Sorry about the huge picture... wanted you to be able to see the dot on the cams.

Tod

[Oldcruz]

78 XS1100E

I'm having problems with valves also. Exhaust clearance is with in specs., but intake clearance is as follows:

#1 .076 w/ .245 shim
#2 .140 w/ .245
#3 .140 w/ .240
#4 .102 w/ .240

.200mm shims would put #2 & 3 within spec but not #1 & 4.
What do I do now?

The manual says .16 - .20mm clearance on a 78 xs.