only 1/2 the engine running

[John]

Your compressiom readins are kinda low, and the difference between them all is too XSive. There shouldn't be much more than a 10% difference. Seeing as how it sat for many ears, I would get a couple of spoonfuls of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder, hand crank it over to spread out the oil, and let it set for a couple of days. That may help to free up the stuck rings on the low cylinders. If the two low ones are the ones that overheated, then the rings could be trash. As far as breaking up carbon, try removing the bottom of the airbox, and spray some water into each carb inlet tube with a spray bottle while running the engine at around 2500 rpm, and keep it running while spraying the water.

[prometheus578]

You are correct, Ken. That may be the case.
Time, and evaporating fuel, can play funny tricks. Especially when the bike sits on the sidestand for years. Usually, carbs #1+#2 are the worse, as they sit lower, due to the tilt of the bike, and gum up worse. But I've also seen #'s 1+2 clean as a whistle, and 3+4 all varnished and plugged. Too many variables.
The line about fluid coming out the exhaust for the right bank o' carbs directed me to carb flooding.
Low compression on a bike that sat for 14 years in nothing to worry about, at least, not yet. Get it runnin' and burn up a coupl'a hunnerd miles and then recheck. Chances are, they'll be back up in the 140's by then.

[DELL82]

Thanks alot Guys for the info. I have taken the spare set of carbs apart and are getting them ultrasonically cleaned today. Need 4 bowl gaskets, 1 pilot jet so far. Will inspect after cleaning. Took out the butterflys and shafts, found the seals for the shafts brittle and cracked, need 8 new seals and 4 "o" rings for the needle valve assemblies. Still waiting for the service manual CD so I can get the float level settings.
Can you set the slides by using a vaccuum cleaner suction as a source with a vaccuum gage? Thought about Norms setup but the engine needs to be running and I wanted to set the carbs before installing, well maybe get them close anyway.
Dell82

[randy]

DELL82;

Get the butterfly seals from Bikebandit, they are the Yamaha seals. The ones from Rob Reil don't work.

The vacuum slides do not have to be 'set' You manually set the butterfly openings, the 'bread tie sync' will get you close. Do a search here for the method.

Final sync should be done with a mercury stick ($50) or some guys use four vacuum guages ($100+)

[DELL82]

Thanks Randy, I know about the bread tie trick and used it when I first put the carbs on. I wil try the water spray trick once I get her running again. Can you reuse the needle valves? How about the pilot jets? When I worked on my chevy 4 barrel we could see the dull ring about the needle valves and that ment replacement, is that true with the bike carbs also?
Dell82

[DiverRay]

Dell82,
for the price of the needle and seat, just replace them. The time you save is time on the bike.
I usually replace the needle and seat, bowl gasket, and anything else that look questionable. That way, once done, the carbs should go for a while, about 30K, before needing work again. Be prepared to sync the carbs about two or three times in the first 1500 miles. as the rings loosen up and work once again, the vacum will change from one to another, and the carbs will need to be synced to re-match the bike.
Ray

[DELL82]

Thanks Everyone for your help, This forum is the best place to get the real thing. When I worked on my chevy 4 barrel we could see the dull ring about the needle valves and that ment replacement, is that true with the bike carbs also? Can you reuse the needle valves? How about the pilot jets?
When I tried to set the idle with the thumb screw under the carb bank I found that the screw could not reach the lever. Tried to lower the lever by adjusting the throttle cable at the handle but it wasn't long enough. Should I get another throttle cable or am I missing something, is there an adjustment in the throttle handle? really need the #$%@CD.
Dell82

[Ken Talbot]

Something doesn't sound right there. There is an adjustment at the throttle end that lets you set the cable slack. Then, the other end of the outer sheath sits into a recessed fitting. Have a look to see if the bottom end is sitting down into the recess where it belongs. It's not like the cable can all of a sudden shrink so much it becomes too short.

[DELL82]

Ken i checked the cable end and it is setting into the cup and I adjusted the slack in both directions to see if that helped and it didn't!! Will check the adjustment because the thumb screw bracket can be screwed on upside down and with its bend would take it farther away from the cable end. will check that when I get home. Ps does the bend face up or down when viewed from side of the bike?

[Wbowen]

Thanks for all of the info,

The issue was very simple to fix, The guy rebuilt the carbs right before I purchased the bike and when he put the gas tank back on he pinched the fuel line. The bike is running much better except for a few minor issue. I will post those issue in new post.

Thanks

[kennewick58]

Thanks I think Iv'e got it.

I was haveing problems at takeoff from stop lights a real cut out and coughin thing then soooth I was looking at all kinds of stuff. Then wham no power!

Dead on 1 and 4. Saw this thread and read about the coil issues. Ran out of time tonight and out of town this weeked. But I will be back Sunday to ohm the primary and secondary coils of the left coil. I have already got to suposed good ones comming.

Thanks guys. By the way while I have stuff pulled I am going to get the seat recovered and service the shaft and final drive gears. I think I will do some touch up on the frame and paint the tank and sidecovers too.

Ahh heck might as well try to rebuild the exhaust too.

Stupid feeeeever!!