oil amounts

[phx_bare]

I'm changing my main oil and gear oil. My question, until I get the manual, is, how much of each goes into the bike? Also, is there two places I need to add gear oil to? This new bike I got has seemed to have sat more than the "two" years I was told.There's gunk everywhere. The break lines are gummed up, except the calipers, there's acually liquid in there ! ! ! ! But the carbs are virutally locked up with gummyness, the oil was almost gone, the gear oil was almost empty and blacker than night, the brake reservoir on the rear was able to clean up, but the front is so bad, I'm thinking I'm gonna have to replace it. I would very much appreciate any tips, help, recomendations, etc all you masterminds can give. I know my Virago tech site has been a savior and I'm hoping you all will be as well.

Thanks, Barry XS1100G

[Ken Talbot]

Tha manual lists oil capacity as:
Engine
Dry 4.0 litres (4.3 US qt)
Oil and filter change 3.5 litres (3.7 US qt)
Oiil change 3.0 litres (3.2 US qt)

Middle gear case
0.36 litres (.38 USqt)

Final gear case
0.30 litres (.32 US qt)

Gummed up master cylinders and calipers is a pretty common thing when these bikes have been sitting for a while. A thorough cleaning is usually all that is needed and if you are very careful and a bit lucky, you can get by without a rebuild kit. If any of the rubber bits get torn, or if they are at all perished and brittle, they will have to go.

[HobbyMan]

Use the window on the side of the engine to get a reference. It should be around 3.5 to 4 Qts. With an oil cooler it wiil be around 4 Qts. Check the oil with the level on the center stand. If you have the oil dipstick It should have the levels for the center gear oil and the rear differential. As for the brakes, make sure to clean out the calipers even if they have fluid in them. If you have an air compressor blow out he brake lines because I alwase find that if you don't particulate matter will end up causing problems Good luck.

[phx_bare]

Thanks for the help people. Hopefully, I'll find the middle gear opening and there'll be a dip stick. I'm still trying get the pics I took looked at, but lief seems to enjoy throwing crap at me lately. Hopefully, this week I'll post pics of my new machine and update you on the cleaning process. My girlfriend is cleaning the carbs out. She's very meticulous about it. I think too meticulous ! ! ! I 'm gonna have to put a rush on her!!!! lol

[skids]

WOW! Now that is some kind of woman!

Originally posted by phx_bare
My girlfriend is cleaning the carbs out. She's very meticulous about it. I think too meticulous ! ! ! I 'm gonna have to put a rush on her!!!! lol

[underdog57]

Cool GF !!

I thought the dipstick is part of the tool kit ??One side for the center , the other end for the rear res...
I need to know too as I am new , plus see no tool kit !!

Bob

[HobbyMan]

My dpstick was missing from my tool kit, I just bought another one for about $8 from Yamaha

[red bandit]

If I remember right ...The middle and finale drive hold 10 oz. each. I use a kitchen measure with oz. markings. Make sure you wash it real good or it makes your food taste funny.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey PHX-Bare,

There is a tech tip showing how to make your own dipstick! But as mentioned, new ones are still available from Yamaha. Have you looked in your tool bag?? Yes, 10 Oz, or 300cc's !
T.C.

[dpj]

The fill hole for the middle drive is a large set screw located on top of the mid-drive housing.(it may have a plastic plug in the hex hole) The fill hole on the final drive is half way down and to the rear of the houstng. Same type of set screw as mid. A measured 12oz in the mid and 10oz in the rear showed right on my dip stick. Don't give up on your m/c yet. Mine was a real mess, but some time spent on the Search section of this sight will get you through just about any problems you run across.

Good luck.

[HobbyMan]

I have found that no matter how bad the master Cyl. is, it is most always fixable. After dissasembly and cleaning of the reservoir, a little emery cloth brushed lightly (removing tarnish, dirt, or whatever) on the inside will clean up the MC nicely. Add in a rebuild kit and its "Just like new."

[phx_bare]

All the brake components cleaned up fine ! Lines and all ! PHEW !
I also finished the carbs. Although the butterflies are still real tight. Any suggestions as to how I can loosen them up? I tried spraying the bajeezus out of them. I hate the idea of seperating them to be able to soak them individually. Also, how many turns out should I do the pilot screw? Everyone of them was different. This bike must of ran like crappola prior to sitting.

[skids]

Pilot screws can be started at 1.5 turns out and adjusted from there based on performance.

You can strip the screws or the female threads on the throttle plates. Really, if you can force cleaner spray through the orifaces, don't bother with the dunking. At least that is my story and I am sticking to it!!!!! (triple clean, my arse!)

Originally posted by phx_bare
Although the butterflies are still real tight. Any suggestions as to how I can loosen them up?

[TopCatGr58]

Nothing worse than a stiff shaft!

Hey Barry,

Like Skids says or is hinting at, you can damage the butterfly shaft seals by dunking/soaking them in harsh carb cleaner, and the little screws that hold the butterflies onto the shafts are peened on the other end along with locktited, so they are a real PITA to remove to get the shafts and seals out for a safe dunking!

So...it's better to spritz the the shafts with doses of carb spray, followed with a toothbrush scrub, and then more spritzing, etc. from both outside and inside of shaft housing! Also working, actuating the butterflies during this may also assist in dislodging the sludge/gum from the shafts and housing.

Also, if you have already taken them off of the mounting bracket, so that they are individual, you can partially dunk them. I would just use the open can of carb dip, splash the cleaner up into the carb body and brush it around with the toothbrush till it was clean, then spritz with spray cleaner which evaporates faster and doesn't do much to the seals since the seals aren't SOAKING in it! Also afterwards, spritz with WD-40 or other lite oil.
T.C.