Build your Ignition Module

[ThumperNow]

Could write a book on whats happened in the past 6 months but Ill spare you.
That said...I have built my own ignition module that works fine,and cheap,and could easily be modified for most bikes.
I sent the pics and wiring diagrams to TopCatGR58. Hope he can manage this attachment thing and get them up.

Did have to convert distributor to old centrifical weights and vacume advance.That was easy.Timing at 10 degrees BTDC.

Also have wired a chev voltage regulator to the bike just to see if it could be done.Works fine.

Thanks TopCatGr58

ThumperNow

[mainlylinux]

I'm ready to see those pics. I am 80% done converting to a Ford EDIS 4 cylinder coil and dual HEI modules. Will post pics and instructions when I verify that it works.

Bought most of the parts from the junkyard cheap. Should get a much hotter spark than before (no ballast resistor).

My next project is a replacement for the voltage regulator/rectifier, so tell me how did the chevy unit affect your rate of charge (volts/rpm)? Maybe Geezer could shed some light on what the 11's stator is capable of?

Geezer, is the alternator on the 11 underworked from the factory?

Dan

[mainlylinux]

"Anyone know what this is? Class? Anyone? Anyone? Anyone seen this before?"

Ferris Bueller rip off. Any updates on the module that can be shared? I showed mine, now you show me yours :-)

[ThumperNow]

...perhaps you could clarify that last post.....the rip off part....

[mainlylinux]

"Anyone know what this is? Class? Anyone? Anyone? Anyone seen this before?" - is a line from the move ferris bueller's day off.

I was asking how long before the stuff would be posted. I'm working on putting some HEI modules on my bike and I wanted to see if there was a better way to do it.

Dan

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Thumper,

MainlyLinux was just talking about his quote was a rip off from
the Ferris Beuller movie, that's all!!

Apologies for not posting these sooner, Thumper sent them to me a couple of days ago, I've been busy trying resurrect a friends computer, had WinMe, kept crashing, finally figured was faulty VidCard, new card...works flawlessly as WinMe Can!!

Anyhow, here's his description on what he's done, along with a
WIRING DIAGRAM, and some photos! The Wiring diagram is 900
pixels wide, but didn't want to shrink it and loose the printed
text in it possibly making it illegible, so bear with the side scrolling!
T.C.

The modules I used are from 74-88 chev cars or 75-90 chev trucks.
I bought from our supplier at cost but anyone could easily just go to
the wreckers and pocket a couple.Obviously located in the distibutors
of said vehicles,below the rotors.

The Blue Streak or Standard numbers for the ignition modules is LX 301.
Its the old four pin modules.Any parts store should be able to cross the
numbers over to their brand, or even if they just use the years.

The most beautiful thing about this is its cheap,tested,and should last for years.
I did get around the advance problem by going to a bike wreckers and getting
the old style centrifical weights advance system with the vacume advance.
Those parts were about 20 bucks and easy to change over.

I set the timing to 10 degrees BTDC with vacume advance disconnected.
Bike runs fine.Have plenty of pics and even video.
And last...this set up can be adapted to any bike with the waste spark system.
Wouldnt take much to build one for my 650 twin.
Damn factory ignition box be gone...!All the blasted pages of BS
of people trying to hunt down or rebuild these things.....

[Geezer]

This stuff is old news to Z car guys. I used 1/2 of the same set up on the Z car I used to have. I bought a couple extra modules to try on on a bike but I've never gotten round to building it.

I sent all the info I had on this to Promethous last year, I guess he didn't get around to it either...

Geezer

[prometheus578]

"Lazy... I'm just stinkin' lazy!"

Yeah, Geezer. I still have the PM's and e mails you sent me. I just never got around to toying with it. I had wanted to figure out a way to get a bike back runnin' after breaking down in Toad Squat, Utah, or something. (though I always carry a spare Reg and brain box on trips)
I mean... it's just a switch, after all. A low voltage impulse triggers a relay that fires the coils. The ignition advance on the early models is vacuum, so there's no need to clown with that. The only thing left is the bit about not running through the ballast resister when starting, and that was the least of my concerns.
But, be that as it may...
Praise and congratulations to you, ThumperNow. You've succeeded where I've failed to try!(Says a lot about me... but we won't dwell on that)
I will add building this to my ever increasing list of projects that I can never seem to find the time for.

[randy]

Adrian,

Nice work!. One question - Why the condensers?

[prometheus578]

"The Condensed Version"

One question - Why the condensers?

I was going to ask the same thing, but was a'scared to.
"Prom, you idiot... you need the condensers for..."
"Prom, you dolt... without the condensers it would..."
"Prom, you electrical ignoramus... everybody knows that..."
(My electrical theoretical knowledge is limited to fixing toasters and jump starting riding lawnmowers)

[Firehawk]

Re: "The Condensed Version"

Originally posted by prometheus578
(My electrical theoretical knowledge is limited to fixing toasters and jump starting riding lawnmowers)

Although it shouldn't be, mine is too.

[mainlylinux]

Great diagram, can this go into the tech tips?

Dan

[LoserShoes]

Condensors? Oh you mean those capacitors? Probably RFI (radio frequency interference) suppression.

Steve

[randy]

Yes, those capacitors. In automotive applications they're commonly called condensors. Usually used on points systems to smooth out the back-emf spikes so the points don't arc & burn. Wondering what they're doing here?

[Geezer]

I was thinking the caps may be there to reduce RF emmisions but other than that, you're guess is as good as mine.

When I built a similar unit for my old Z car, I didn't use a capasator.

Geezer