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  • rear master cylinder

    This is a new thread on the 79 1100sf I picked up for parts that now runs and purrs like a kitten. Pulled the rear master cylinder, it was a mess inside, cleaned the spooge hole, got the c clip out to pull the plunger, but can't get it out. The plunger moves up and down easily but does not seem to pump any fluid, maybe seal is unseated. How much force does it take to get out, manual indicates it just comes out but won't budge. Don't want to break anything.

    Thanks.

  • #2
    The spring inside will push it out by itself if things are clean enough. Obviously, that is not the case. Try using a dental pick or other fine, sharp scraper to gently scrape down the sides of the bore to where the c-clip groove is. See if you can get enough cr@p off of the walls to free up the plunger.
    Ken Talbot

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    • #3
      Thanks Ken,

      that is kind of what I will try your suggestions. Also can't seem to remove the float bowl pins, scared to death of breaking the posts, squirted with penetrating oil, tried the side cutter method on the tech tips but afraid to use too much pressure and cut the pin off.

      They are covered with green stuff, but it will clean up with copper/bronze cleaner, tried a little area and worked fine. Need to get these off.

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      • #4
        .. i thought i read a in thread some time ago about a groovey little tool that removes that pesky little pin safley. i wander if that guy still makes those?.. HHmmm

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        • #5
          Now that you mention it, I seem to remember someting about that too. I think it may have been this thread

          Here's what some of the early prototypes look like:




          I've only got one left, and that has been promised to Czekus21 as the prize for the recent 'pick the date of member #3000' contest. I'm on the track of a local hobby machinist who might be able to make some more for me at a reasonable price. Failing that, and if I can make a bit of time, I'll try making another short run.
          Ken Talbot

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          • #6
            The larger, bradded-over end of the pin, can be gotten hold of with a small, high quality pair of adjustable pliers. If yer holdin' yer mouth right, you can grip the pin to turn, enough to "break it loose" from its frigidness. And, then it will tap out. No need to tell you, that this is a delicate job, without that special tool. Some, I have sorta had to turn the pin both ways, a couple times, for it to lose its stubborness.

            There is one of my many different types of pliers that I kind of favor for this job. A small, small > about 4 inch pair of channel locks. Sometimes, I might pull and turn at the same time. If you get it out just a small ways > you can give yourself enough room to put the "right" screwdriver tip between the post and catch the lip of the pin, and pry it some more................................
            JCarltonRiggs

            81XS1100SH; WorkingMotorcycle,Not For Show,DeletedFairing,SportsterHL,
            7½ gal. Kaw Concours gastank,1972 Wixom Bros. bags

            79XS1100F; ?Parts?, or to Restore?

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            • #7
              I used side cutters with the sloped jaws and the pins just popped out no problem at all as I closed the jaws. No twisting or pulling involved.
              Rob
              KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

              1978 XS1100E Modified
              1978 XS500E
              1979 XS1100F Restored
              1980 XS1100 SG
              1981 Suzuki GS1100
              1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
              1983 Honda CB900 Custom

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