Ok got both master cyllinders off now what???

[OpFlash]

Hey guys im back after a long terrible hiatus i actually got my ass in the garage and got to work on my xj1100! Anyway heres the update before i get into this issue.

Changed oil and oil filter
Replaced spark plugs
Changed middle gear oil
Drained final gear oil but cant get the filler plug off!
Removed carb assembly
Removed airbox and changed filter

Ok so now im ready to work on the braking system

[OpFlash]

Ok the front and rear complete master cyllinder assemblies are off the bike.

I do have the rebuild kits for both the front and the back. I am just wondering what the best way to go would be to clean these up rebuild them so that i dont screw it up. I have also already cleaned up all the brake calipers and replaced the brake pads etc. One of my concerns is that i know that i should be able to clean them up with brake fluid but for instance the front MS still has the wires attached to it (im assuming they are the brake light swith and i dont know what the other one is for) Ive read around the site about cleaning the "spooge hole" so ill try and do that. Finally whats your opinion about replacing brake lines and or cleaning any other parts of the braking system. The brake lines on the bike were never leaking and still are very flexible and soft.

Thanks guys!

[Ken Talbot]

If you look on the underside of the M/C unit where the wires plug into it, you'll see a round hole. Poke a small screwdriver in therre to depress the plastc tab and switch assembly will pop off. Then you can work with the M/C assembly by itself on your workbench or wherever convenient. With it off the bike, you'll want to take it completely apart for cleaning and reassembly, including looking after the spooge hole.

When it comes to brake lines, soft is not a good thing. That applies to other parts of one's life also, but we probably don't want to go there right now. If you're okay with the buck$ needed, braided stainless steel lines is the only way to go. Use the search tool at the top of the page to find some of the many discussion on this topic.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey OpFlash,

Welcome back! As to the final drive, the filler plug is the one about half way around the drive unit, NOT the thing at the top, that's the vent!! You didn't say what you had tried. Was the hex socket head stripped out? OR, did you put the allen wrench into it, but it wouldn't budge/turn??

First, try some penetrating fluid, and tap the nut to help loosen
the corrosion! Applying some head to the final drive could also help since aluminum will expand at a different rate from the steel filler plug.

If that doesn't work, folks have used a Chisel which will bite into the plug good enough with a few short wacks to get it to start turning.

Various other techniques have also been found, you can search for others!

Yes, Stainless is the way to go!
T.C.

[randy]

Applying some head to the final drive could also help

You know, I love my bike, but that's where I draw the line!

[OpFlash]

Ok hey there sorry for not providing better detail. I was going for the correct bolt and not the vent. Thanks though because now i know that that thing is on the top of the final drive. anyway i tried penetrating oil for a while and no luck. i also placed a long pipe on the end of the allen key and it wouldnt budge. im considering trying the air ratchet with an allen head socket and see what happens. if that wont work ill try heat. any suggestions if that doesnt go and i chisel it or the slot strips (hope not) where i would be able to replace this bolt?

[OpFlash]

ok so now how do you go about removing the piston?? in the front master cyllinder? I can see that the rear has a snap ring then a metal washer and it should remove hopefully easilly. the front i can see a rubber seal but no snap ring. should i try and pry out that seal it looks pretty tight is there a cerain way these things should be removed?

thanks

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Op,

There was a recent thread about the front master cylinder, the C-ring is DEEP down inside, and you'll need a special set of C-clamp pliers, or make a set of your own with some long needle nose pliers ground down. IF the rubber seal is totally flat and not mounted onto a shaft, then you can get it out. The other Xsive couldn't see the C-ring due to corrosion and crud, once he sprayed some brake cleaner in, he was able to see it!

What penetrating fluid are you using? PB Blaster is a good one! Also, if you have a heat gun, try heating it up, bang on it a bit, apply more fluid, let it cool, heat it up again, repeat. Also, trying to slowly break it loose is how you can strip the socket head. You can use that breaker bar and try hitting it with a hammer. Your air wrench IF it's an impact wrench might also work using the same principle!

If you have access to a welder, you could try tacking a nut or bolt to it? The heat and then cooling from the welding can also help to loosen it. Others have had to drill into it to put an easy out, or a reverse threaded bolt.
T.C.

[OpFlash]

Hey there the rubber seal does appear to be on the shaft. I pulled on it briefly and it did seem to be on there pretty good. now this was just a real quick try as i wanted to check here with you guys before really getting into it. now is these special c clamp pliers a yamaha special tool or could i get it at sears maybe? as for the filler plug. i was just using regular wd-40 i do have a heat gun and ill give that a try.

[Ken Talbot]

You need a long, slender snap ring plier to get down far enough to do the job. I found a cheap set a a Princess Auto or similar place a while back and they onl;y cost me a couple of bucks. You could try grinding down a set of cheap needlenose pliers too.

WD40 should work if you can let it soak a bit. I would be careful about heat unl;ess you're doing this outside well away from the house and anything else that mivht burn. A shot of compressed air will help remove the cr@p. Oh, and did I mention "SAFETY GLASSES"...

[OpFlash]

Ok so i need a long slender snap ring plier set to get the front MC rebuilt. how long does it have to be 2" long 3" long I want to buy a decent set but just want to make sure that i buy the right one. thanks

[John]

Take yor M/C to Sears, and try out their pliers. You will prbbly find what you need there.

[pggg]

Op, for the rear drive, if the allen bolt isn't rounded, and the allen key fits snugly, the long pipe will get it alright. Bounce the pipe back and forth at maximum leverage until the bolt 'cracks' and releases.