Errors in Clymer's!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey folks,

In lieu of 80mdnt11 finding the swing arm pivot bolt torque specs incorrect at 47ft lbs, when it should be 47-52 Inch/lbs,

and I thought I remembered a few other items being pointed out as erroneous, so I thought I would start this thread in hopes of making it a future tech tip!

What other errors do you remember being in the Clymers?
T.C.

[prometheus578]

"Man, I'm wired!"

Can't recall exactly(My Yama manual and corrected Clymer's is at work, I think!) but...
For the "E" and "F" wiring diagrams, there's no tach. Wire from generator goes to fuel gauge. Sure, the tach's in the same housing, but can be confusing for some.
Seem to recall something about the neutral switch going to the pick-up coils, too.

[mro]

Errors in Clymer's!

1978-80 yam service manual says 43 to 52 in-lb

range is for achieving proper "gap" between frame and swing arm, and left/right "gap" are to be within 1.6 mm (0.062 in)



mro

[TopCatGr58]

Ah, yes, the wiring diagram snafu,

Yep, they have the neutral switch coming off one of the red/white striped power lines of the pickup coils harness, and then directly to ground? In other diagrams, it is properly connected to the sky blue wire that goes to the neutral light.

I think another thing is the listing of the sizes of the main jets for the Specials in the 80-81 years. The manual states staggered sizes for cooling purposes, but many of us have reported that we found the same size 110's across all four carbs!
T.C.

[mro]

110's across all four carbs!

page 10-6 (XS1100G/SG oem yama book #LIT-11616-XS-12)
(this is 2nd edition, which has a few corrections for first edition)

SG----#110 mains, 1 to 4, jet needle 5GL16
G ---- #115 1&4 #120, 2&3 jet needle 5IZ7

_____________________________________________

SF*** ---#137.5 5GZ6-3


***also says to measure float height (25.7 mm) ABOVE gasket Surface for SF


Lot of different info. Lot a things look simular between models, but factory made quite a few small changes. Think most carb stuff was changed for emmisions, not preformance.

mro

[ccogswel]

The wiring diagram on page 270 for 78 & 79 XS1100E&F has a mistake on it. I used white out on mine to fix it but what I can see and remember is, if you look at the Right Rear turn signal and follow the DG wire (Dark Green) you see it pass over the Dg wire for the Right Front turn signal and crosses over the Pink wire for the horn and then turn down and crosses the Tan,Blue,and the Red wires of the main switch and crosses one more time over the Yellow wire for the Headlight to where it finally connects to the DG of the headlight. Now if I'm wrong please someone tell me so but if you look the Dg wire to the headlight is the hot wire for the low beam. So if the wire is hooked up this way wouldn't the right rear turn signal light up with the headlight as well? It's also like that on pg.272 for the 79XS1100SF. The rest of the years look ok. No telling what else may be wrong in the wiring diagrams.

[rwtrail]

Clymers Snafu's

I can't seem to find the proper colored wires from the tailight/brakelight. Mine are Yellow, Blue, and Black. Clymer's showes green/yellow stripe and a yellow. I am currently trying to trace the wires down so, I might connect the rear brake light switch. I cannot find them on my bike, and clymers is no help. My bike is a 1980 xs special. Anyone with the ability to assist, would greatly be appreciated. Clymer's is usually a joke for me, or maybe i'm just to stupid to do wiring. Incidently the two wires on the switch are both black

[Lamric]

The one I like is under 'Rear Brake Pad Replacement' starts on Page 234, having replaced your Rear brake pads step 12 says

Block the motorcycle up so that the front wheel is off the ground. Spin the front wheel and activate the brake lever for as many times as it takes to refill the cylinder in the caliper and correctly locate the pads

Yeah, that'll help

[randy]

rwtrail,

You think you have problems now? Wait til Marty finds out you're using his avatar!

Seriously, though.

Use a voltmeter to sort out the wires at the tail. With the black meter wire grounded:

The running (tail) light wire will be +12v with the key on or in park.

Operate the signals to identify the left and right leads.

There is also a multi-pin connector for the tail under the seat. Clean it. That should do it for you, and don't forget to clean the ground connections at the signals.

[rwtrail]

avatars

thanks randy, didn't know i was stepping on Marty's toes. Thanks for the info, but according to this original post the wire colors in Clymer's dont match my wiring harness.

[randy]

the wire colors in Clymer's dont match my wiring harness

That's why I suggested using a meter to identify the wires.

The meter won't lie.

[skids]

Concerning valve lifter shim adjustment: Page 44, item 5 says, "These pads are available in 25 different thicknesses from No. 200 (2.00 mm) to No. 320 (3.20 mm) in increments of 0.005 mm. " The spec of 0.005 increments is an error as the true spec at that time was 0.05 mm. Aside from that glaring error, and although probably not an error at the time of Clymer's printing, I believe that the range of available sizes has been extended and a dealer also told me that the increments are now available at 0.025 mm.

[skids]

Page 255, table 4, float needle height (SI), claims 0.906+/-0.20 inches. I am pretty sure the decimal is off for the tollerance value. It should probably read: 0.906+/-0.02 inches.

[skids]

The manual should not suggest removing wheel bearings for repacking unless a new bearing is available in case of damage (very likely during the removal process).

[TopCatGr58]

Triple Tree design wrong!

Using the diagram from page 203 of the almighty Clymers for the Special TT's, it shows the Special handlebar clamps are rubber isolated and mounted with bolts like the 750 Triple, but they are actually molded into the upper TT!

T.C.