Clutch problem after Clubman bar swap

[ejoy1220]

Ok quick question, I just put the clubman bars on my XS850 Special. I had enough length of everything, and everything is bolted up. Went to take it for a shakedown ride, and the clutch release is wayyy out there, and it's slipping under acceleration. Am I going to need a shorted clutch cable, or is there a way I can adjust and use this one?

[Pat Kelly]

I put clubmans on my Honda years ago and replaced the buckhorns on my XS1100 with superbike bars.
Took some re-routing but everything has worked for me.
I had to loop my clutch cable from the lever (on the left of course), across the bike to the right side then down to the engine/clutch.

[ejoy1220]

Ahhh OK, so the tight bends I have are causing the kinks? Ok, so how do I go about removing the clutch cable? I loosened the small diamter screw with the clutch cable going through it to the max, but I can't remove it completely.

[GNEPIG]

.. what Pat Kelly is saying is that you are going to have to get creative with the routing of your clutch cable. try routing it several different ways to find the smoothest action and that it doesnt get bound up when you turn the bars or hook on something. also make sure when you put your fuel tank back on that it doesnt get pinched or bound under there

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Ejoy,

There are 2 screws on the right engine cover where the clutch cable goes, remove those and the cover, then you can use a wide blade screwdriver to wedge that lever, pull the clutch lever at the bar, then stick the screwdriver under the side cover lever, this will give you slack so you can pull the round knob and cable from the handlebar, you will have wanted to line up the opening in the slack adjuster and lock nut on the handlebar first.

Once you have the cable loose from the bar lever, then you can experiment with it's routing. As said, you may need to make a loop in it, like around/under the headlight before running under the tank down to the right side!
T.C.

[ejoy1220]

Thanks guys! All this help has been great, it would have taken me hours to figure this out. Wierd thing, this is a lot easier than working on a car, but it's also a completely different beast.

Lesson #594902: Think things through and gather all the information before actually attempting it.



I will post some pics when I get the chance!

[ejoy1220]

Here are some pics I snagged with my camera phone:

My Mustang, the other money pit in the background





You can see how the clutch cable is all looped up in the air, oops!

[prometheus578]

Another option would be to call around to various shops and see if they make cables. Figger out just how long you need it. The shop will remove the metal sleeve at the end, cut back the plastic sheath, cut the cable to the length that you want, and then solder the bulb back on the cable.
Better than having the thing looking (and acting)like a 'Crazy Straw".

[ejoy1220]

OK, got the clutch cable out, and re-routed it. Also, had to tighten the clutch adjuster on the lever pretty much all the way in.

Took it for a test drive around the block, felt good until you got on it hard, then at the upper rpms it felt like it was hitting a wall and almost slipping. I think it might be that I wasn't cranking the throttle wide open at first, seeing as I rotated the throttle controls slightly with the clubman bars. Once I realized that, it felt a lot snappier, but I still feel something is wrong with the clutch (might be a psychological thing)

I'm looking at replacements since I want to go shorter, and don't know where to start with measurements. Does anyone know how long the stock Xs850S cable is? I didn't measure it when I had it out...

Also, it seems I can't bring the front wheel to full lock on the bike. Slightly before it goes full lock, the bar controls (horn, starter button) hit the side of the tank Shouldn't have tested it with just the grips on

Looks like I might have to forgo the cafe racer look in favor of flipping them up. How bad is it to not be able to go full lock? Anyone have any experience with this or any advice on what to do?

Here is the bike as it sits:

[prometheus578]

"I hate bars... but like to drink"

Had to test ride an '06 triumph Daytona today. Had similar low bars. They wouldn't hit the tank, but if you turn them too far, they like to pinch your fingers against it.
Bikes that have bars like that... the bars aren't meant to be turned far, like during low speed upright turns. Bikes with bars like these are meant to corner real low, lots of lean, hence bars don't have a great turning radius.

Anyone have any experience with this or any advice on what to do?

My advice... take them off! Sorry... 6'2", and I hate having to lean over a gas tank just to grip handlebars. The whole race bike thing is highly over-rated. And furthermore, if you want my opinion....
(Yes, had a crappy day at work)

[Pat Kelly]

Loosen the handlebar clamps and rotate the bars forward. Looks like (in the photos) you have room to do that. On mine I had the top curved part level with the ground. As the bars rotate forward the hand grip will get further from the tank (and you have farther to reach).

[Ken Talbot]

Not being able to turn lock to lock won't affect your riding. What it will do is give you a dent in the side of your fuel tank the first time the bars flop over unexpectedly and the stop is not there to keep the bars from hitting the tank. Do you need another opportunity to practice speaking in tongues?

[Geezer]

Re: "I hate bars... but like to drink"

[i] My advice... take them off! Sorry... 6'2", and I hate having to lean over a gas tank just to grip handlebars. The whole race bike thing is highly over-rated. And furthermore, if you want my opinion....
[/B]

I have to agree. Other than guys that are actually road racing, most folks that try clubman bars toss them after a week of riding anyway. Save the back pain and get a set of superbike bars. They're easier to mount and cause less back pain.

Geezer