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  • #1

    need help - engine reassembly

    I was putting the case halves back together today following the clymer manual. After a few tries (alignment issues) I got the bottom to sit down onto the top (upside down). I tapped it with a rubber mallet to seat the halves together and then proceeded to install and tourque all the bolts. I was confused though as I read the manual regarding crankshaft installation and it says to torque the bolts (1-10) in two stages to 17.4 ft./lbs. So I did this and then torqued the rest (11-34) in two stages per the manual.

    When this was complete I thought I should turn the engine over by hand to see if there was any trouble and I thought it seemed hard to turn. I checked and double checked that the tranny was in neutral and I believe it is, however the engine cranks over hard (it seems). I measured it with a torque wrench at 40-50 ft./lbs.

    Do I have something wrong here? Maybe a bearing slipped out of position on the crank??? I'm cranking it using the 17 mm bolt which holds the alternator rotor in place (rotor installed).

    Please help - I'm getting so frustrated and this just doesn't seem right but I don't want to go to the trouble of splitting the case again if I can help it. I used Yamabond on the case halves too if that makes a difference - and I was very careful not to get any on the bearings or crank, etc..............................


    Tom B.
    Brooklyn Park, MN
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Did you torque the 1-10 bolts, (main bearing bolts) , both stages, before you torqued the other 11-34 bolts? You should torque all 34 of them in each stage, not seperatly.

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    • #3
      torqued...

      Yes - I torqued 1-10 first in two stages, then the others... The manual didn't seem clear to me on this but as it sounds, I made the wrong choice. Is it acceptable to loosen them all, and just re-torque them in the proper order or will I need to split the cases again, remove the yamabond and reseal with new yamabond... I may just do this to double check the bearing status.

      tom b.

      Comment

      • #4
        Hey Tab,

        What John is saying is that you should torque ALL of them in the first stage to 8.7 ft/lbs, and then the second stage for the remaining larger bolts to the 17.4 ft/lbs. Your clymers should have a diagram of which ones are the 8mm bolts that require the second round of torquing.

        My question is did you use assembly lube on the crank and bearings, sorry if it's a dumb question?

        You'll want to follow the guide for loosening them like you did when you first were taking it apart.
        T.C.
        T. C. Gresham
        81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
        79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
        History shows again and again,
        How nature points out the folly of men!

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        • #5
          assembly lube

          Not a dumb question but maybe a dumb wrencher.... I just smeared some oil on the bearings and journals - not soaked but a light coat. I thought the assembly lube was for new bearings and a new crank..



          Tom b.

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          • #6
            Re: assembly lube

            Oil should be OK. Assembly grease could jam the journals. I have seen car engines assembled that way.
            Skids (Sid Hansen)

            Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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            • #7
              primary shaft???

              Ok - here's a question for the guru's of XS / XJ land... I took the engine back apart expecting to find a bearing had shifted but to no avail. I tried to turn the engine over with the bottom case half off and the tension was still there (about 40-50 ft/lbs). I noticed the primary shaft was not turning but instead the "dampener cam" was activating... If you're not sure what this is, the primary shaft has a cam in the center of it, and some disc like things on the end. This wasn't turning on the outboard bearing end. I removed the bearing housing and tried it again - still not turning. So now I'm wondering if the primary shaft is bad or how I can diagnose it. I'll take it all apart tomorrow (starter clutch, primary shaft) and check the ass'y to make sure it's all correct but I went very carefully by the book. Has anyone heard of the primary shaft going bad? I was always wondering if the starter clutch was actually bad and as it appears, it was fine, but the primary shaft was junk...


              Tom B.

              Comment

              • #8
                Tab, were the springs and the pushrods in the starter clutch O.K?

                Comment

                • #9
                  yep - I replaced them... When I originally tore it apart, the starter clutch seemed to work according to the manual..

                  Problem is, the manual doesn't say how the "cam dampener" is supposed to work so I cannot see if it'S working properly.

                  I really think it's the primary shaft cam dampener but I can't be sure.. Frustrating??? I even checked the torque wrench against another wrench and it's accurate........

                  Any other ideas? I guess the easiest way would be to replace the primary shaft and see if works.

                  I need Andreas!!!!

                  Tom B.

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