Fork Options

[excess11]

78' XS1100 standard. What upgrades are available for the forks? The stock ones seem to suck! I have put Progressive springs in them and also 15 weight oil but I am still not happy with the valving. The forks still have wheel hop on bumps and this tries to kill you on corners or at least put you in the rough!! Is there any swops available with another bikes.

[wingnut]

Fork Brace

Receive my TKAT fork brace yesterday. Installed very easy and fit great. Test ride showed rough road handling better with a more solid feel to the front end under all conditions. Nice looking workmanship too. If you are not happy with the way yours handles I would recomend one.

[MAXIMAN]

Dan

I've done about everything possibble to my front end short of going with something non-OEM and very expensive.

I've installed progressive springs, 15w fork oil, new inner tubes from Forks by Frank AND a TKAT fork brace. Spent about $500 total on the front end. And it help a lot...BUT

These old Elevens will never handle like a modern sport bike if that is what you are expecting. The only way to make one do that is go to a large diameter fork with totally different valving. That would also entail the inclusion of a totally different triple tree and lord knows what else. Also the frame of these bikes is no where nearly as stiff as a modern bike, the swingarms are not up to par and to get a wide sport tire on an Eleven would be a major project (expensive too.) I can be done but...

If you're wanting the bike to handle like Ninja or Gixxer I suggest you simplify matters and go buy one. That is precisely what I did.

However I have kept my ELeven. I will always have an Eleven. They are great for what they do but they are not a "Canyon Carver."

Good luck

Cg

[MAXIMAN]

Re: Fork Options

Originally posted by excess11
Is there any swops available with another bikes.

One mpore thing. I think I read around here on one thread that someone had found a different front end that installed into the frame neck with no modifications. But I can't swear to it.

[Geezer]

Re: Re: Fork Options

Originally posted by MAXIMAN
One mpore thing. I think I read around here on one thread that someone had found a different front end that installed into the frame neck with no modifications. But I can't swear to it.

I haven't tried but I'd bet the later FJ1100 front end would be a close match for replacing the XS11 standard front end.

Geezer

[50gary]

The very number one thing to do with any old damper rod type fork (XS11) is to install some RaceTech Gold Valve Emulators or Traxxion Dynamics also make this type of fork modification. These new valves will "convert" you damper rod forks to the newer style cartridge type fork action found in modern sports bikes. The springs will also have to match the weight of the rider & bike combination. Some of the greatest improvments are found in these old bikes upgraded as the seventies technology is rather primitive by today's standard. "Race Tech" and "Traxxion Dynamics" also sell high grade springs which should also be changed to match. Fork oil and new seals and your good to go. It's amazing some guys still put in non-fork oil and use motor oil or other fluids?
Cheers, 50gary

[50gary]

excess11 one more thing, the 15wt oil may be too heavy and your getting hydro-lock, that is the oil doesn't flow quickly enough through the small orifaces in the damper rod forks and it locks up. Lots of jarring shock. I'd get the emulators.
Cheers, 50gary http://www.race-tech.com/

[GNEPIG]

.. hi Dan, i have 2 cents i would like to pitch in
the weight of your fork oil might be causing part of your problem.
the holes in the valving are small and the holes only get smaller the thicker the oil gets. i would try a 10w fork oil first and if your handling improves but still not just right, then try a 5w oil. you could call around to see if any suspension rebuilders would have a look at your valving to see what could be improved on.
..you have three preload positions on your front fork springs, i suggest trying the softest position [all the way up] as the progressive springs work differently than the stock ones. if you have them in the hardest position, then you have used up most of the soft part of those springs [the soft part is for the little bumps] they are progressive wound, they start getting hard after the first 2 inches of travel
.. i would also check the axle bolt tension, the axle nut torque is supposed to be 70 ft lbs
..a set of taller rear shocks will help put more weight on the front end as well as change the steering angle some towards better handling, i have the PS rear shocks that are one inch taller on mine. i also moved my fork tubes up until they hit the bottom of my handle bars- this lowers the front end about 3/4 of an inch= quicker steering
.. of course a good set of grippy/sport profile tires are a must, with the proper air pressure adjustment.
..and last but not least, the fork brace idea [as mentioned before] is the best improvement you could do to the XS11s handling issues
..in no way do these changes make your XS handle as good as an R6, but he wont get away from you so easy in the twisty's! and you will be suprised at how much better your bike handles. ..this is the best you can do with what you got, without spending butt loads of money.
good luck.. hope this helps

[DeanR]

The emulators were also recommended to me. However, when he looked them up in the application chart, they were not available for our diameter forks (forks too narrow). Anybody else have any info on this?

[50gary]

I've talked to the "Vintage" guy at Race Tech and he says to put in the largest one that fit. At the time (not long ago) I was inquiring about a set for the Yamaha XS650 and they had them for those and the XS650 only has 35mm fork tubes. I'll call them again and post the findings. I would dearly like to change the forks altogether but the XS11 uses very long forks and that 19" wheel. going modern you end up without much ground clearance.
Cheers, 50gary

[DeanR]

Oops
Just broke the head off the drain screw on my second fork. It snapped without much pressure like it was ready to break.
Not being a mechanic and never having done this before I don't know how to get the rest of the screw out. Advice please!

[TopCatGr58]

Dean,

Is there any part of it sticking out from the body of the fork tube? You could take a dremel cut off disc, and cut a small straight groove into the end of the remaining screw shaft so you could fit it with a straight screwdriver?

Or, you can get a reverse cutting drillbit that is much smaller than the screw diameter, use a centerpunch to put a small dent in the center so your drill bit will bite and start cutting at the right position, often just the torque and biting of the bit will turn the screw out similar to how folks have gotten stuck pilot jets out!
T.C.

[DeanR]

Nothing sticking out TC, it's flush. No place (Sears, Lowes etc)had left handed drill bits today. Only various other gizmos which may work but I didn't want to try. I'll wait until Monday to get to a supply house that I know has the bits. I think that's the best way to go.

By the way. How do we tell correct amount of fork oil. Manual says 7.6 oz but don't know if that's correct with the progressive springs and spacers. Oh, there aren't any stock spacers down in there are there?

[TopCatGr58]

Dean,
AFAIK there are no stock spacers in the stock shocks! It's only when you put the progressive springs into special forks, cause they only make the size that fits the Standards, and the specials are a bit longer, so they suggest a spacer for use in them!

While you're waiting for the stores and Monday, squirt some penetrating oil around the broken screw. The screw is steel,and the lower tube is aluminum, so some IIRC galvanic corrosion has occured which has probably bonded the screw shaft to the lower slider!? Might also try applying some heat to it as well, the expansion and contraction may help to further loosen the corrosion welding!?
T.C.

[excess11]

Just a thought

Is there anything on the inside of the fork tube that would be damaged if you drilled it to a larger size? Then retapped with a bottoming tap. Some times it seems easier to just drill out the old bolt and retap rather than try to remove it. Just a thought!!!!!!!!!