Bike starts, wll not stop

[Turboboy]

Hi,

I have rescued this bike from a front lawn. After getting it running and letting it limber up I tried to shut it off.

NOT GOING TO HAPPEN!

lucky for me I had it on an IV tank and could let it run. Seems to me its pissed off at having to sit for so long and is making up for it by not turning off on command. Key has no effect, run stop switch has no effect. pulling coil leads has effect but is a little ghetto when pulling up to the pumps.

Also, have need of one fuel bowl and float. One of my bowls was cracked. I TIG'ed it up for the time being but it will need a new one to be puffy all ways round. Also, has semi pronounced backfire thru carbs going from off idle to midrange. Falls on its face before it flys. It's a little unpredicatable...

Any help would be well apreciated.


Regards,

John

[DiverRay]

We need to know just what model bike you've managed to obtain. With the year and model one of us should be able to look up the wire harness and see what may be cut.
It seems to me that the bike may have been "hot wired" at one time, and the electrical was never put back properly.
As far as the carbs go, once we know what you have, we can help. I would plan on pulling the carbs, and cleaning them. Check the "Tech Tips" on the left side, as there are good diagrams and hints on the proper way to clean the carbs, and what NOT to do.
Welcome to the club, hang on and enjoy the ride once the carbs are done.
Ray

[Turboboy]

Sorry about that, I have a hard time maintaining a straight thought process during the summer crunch.

It is a 1979 XS11 Squair headlamp "E ?"
Their is some bull going on as far as the headlamp is concerned too.

A long blue housing grade wire runs from the headlamp bucket to the fuse panel. I have clipped it for now to unconfuse the issues it has.

The headlamps without the jumper connected, do not work and the switch offers no response as well as zero indicator lamps.

With it jumped the lamp is on with key on and the headlamp switch to upper position turns on the instrument cluster lamps.

I have a lot of wiring gremlins to solve. I will be removing the harness eventually to sand blast the harness ends and apply appropriate dielelctric grease and terminals where apropriate.


thanks,

John

[DiverRay]

John, if it's a 1979, it's an "F" model. You can check the "Specifications" and "General Info" sections on the left for more information about your bike. The frame number will reveal the actual model, as built. Some of these machines have been chopped and put together with parts from all over, so the frame and engine numbers should be checked.
2H7-0XXXX is a '78, 2H7-02XXX is a '79. I'm not 100% on the numbers, but I know it's close.
You may want to consider looking for a "new" wire harness. IF you can find a used one in good condition, it may be a better start than trying to put a cut and hacked mess back together.
Ray

[trbig]

You sure you didn't get it going on diesel? lol.

Worst case scenario.... start popping off the plug wires. Or.... you could put the front wheel against the door of your wife's car and pop the clutch!?? OK not much help. Having a bit of wiring probs myself. Good luck.


Tod

[Turboboy]

I have been further into the problem and now I see that the issue has come up only in the reciently. It would not turn over earlier when the run switch was off or the key was off. It is now something of the reverse. I have the running licked, It engauges gears hard , but seems to be all good. I think the clutch may be in need of service. I have the tank cleaning now in Sulphuric Acid and will purge and strip it tonight.

It has a kirker 4 2 1 and seems to be quite loud and rice-ish in sound. Is this it's standard tone?



John

[DiverRay]

John,
I have a Kirker on daily ride, and removed the baffle and put the fiberglass packing around it. The sound is mellow, until you get over 4500 RPM. It then screams and lets everyone know I was just there.
The baffles on the exhaust should be a long tube with holes all around the outside of it, and a small diameter tube inside of it. If the PO "tweaked" the exhaust, you may want to put something else on the pipe to create a little back pressure. The large bore tubes should give you a lower sound.
Ray

[Turboboy]

Thanks for the info, it sounds like an angry goat on PCP right now. I will need to take care of that asap.

Still dazed and confused on the wiring. I went all over the bike and besides the lone headlamp tap I can't find any other wiring butchery going on. I did find a pair of wires, red and blue, behind the headlamp that are booted for bullet connectors but have no corisponding homes.

On an up note... I was disecting a 750 LTD Kawa and I found that the aux lighting control is the same production number as my YAMA unit. Just diffrent wire orentation. I may dig out the bread bord to see if I can ID the common wires so as to keep it for a spair.

I will just have to remove the harness and bead blast all the connectors. Hopefully on reinstallation it wil be easier to identify problems with all the connections cleaned.

[pggg]

Looks like that wiring's heading to a nightmare. Go for the ignition maybe. Multi-tester preferably with a needle rather than digital.

[Geezer]

Check the plug on the ignition switch. Sometimes the wires get hot from corrosion causing high resistance and the wires melt the plug until the wires short together.

Geezer

[LoserShoes]

Where abouts in Maine are you? That makes 3 of us here now, I think. Good Luck.

Steve

[andreashweiss]

I have a complete uncut wiring harness from a 78 e standard and ignition switch with key in case you need some replacement parts. andreashweiss@yahoo.com

[xswilly]

are you anywhere near hollis

i have a 79 standard harness here somewhere
and some other parts as well

[Turboboy]

The bike is hibernating till next week.
I reside in harrison.
I will be painting all the body work next week and then "after i find the cameras cable" i will post some pictures and some videos of it. Also, please pardon my gramatical errors as I pound away at the keys with 4 out of 10 fingers wrapped in green 3m tape.


John

[Turboboy]

Ok, after going through all the wiring and removing and repairing all the little gremlins it starts and stops as it should.

However, it still doesn't charge and seems to run like poo!
Headlamps still don't work , but I attribute that to the lack of charging. My alternator guy will replace my diodes for me and get me back on the road.. er.. um.. field I guess.

I am still fighting with it and have placed a cube of foam on the bare frame and a 1 Gal IV tank on the handle bars. With the booster pack bungie corded to the back fender I have been ripping around the driveway and fields as long as the battery pack holds out.

Tank and sidecovers are still not done and will have to wait until I have my paintbooth Skylark free!

I'm almost sad that I cannot use it for a woods bike mother humper is FAST with the carbs opened up. I can almost picture the local sherrif trying to track me down by ear with it screaming through the woods like a little indy car!

well, till next time " I bet the booster pack is charged again so I can go get it out of the campsite"