fork oil change

[DeanR]

Am changing my fork oil for the first time, don't know if it has ever been done.
Do the handlebars need to be removed?
Not sure what the cap bolts are as pictured in the Yamaha manual. I have the air caps, there is no nut or anything. Looks like I can only loosen by grabbing onto the air cap itself.
Any other tips for a first timer? Did read tech tips.

[John]

The air valves are the caps. Take care to bleed off any air pressure before you remove the caps. The drain plug is on the back of the fork tube, about one inch up from the bottom of the fork tube. You may need to remove the handlebars to remove and reinstall the caps, and add the oil.

[skids]

Here is a bit of advise. Remove the gastank. Suspend the handlebars from a rafter in the garage. Make sure that the front of the bike is supported or it will walk foreward, right off of the centerstand, as soon as the fork caps are removed!!!

[DeanR]

The air is out and the front end is on a jackstand.
So you just get a wrench on the elevated part of the air valve/cap?
skids, removing the tank no problem, just wondering why?

[skids]

Remove the tank to protect it. Period. It is very easy to drip brake fluid from the master cylinder or to have the bars pivot from the suspension sling (OK, maybe this is a problem of my own methods!) or whatever. You might be struggling when you try and put the caps back on as it is difficult to start the threads squarly. It is just a good idea to protect the tank against mishaps. Spoken from the experience of a clutz!

Originally posted by laxdad
The air is out and the front end is on a jackstand.
So you just get a wrench on the elevated part of the air valve/cap?
skids, removing the tank no problem, just wondering why?

[DeanR]

Can't for the life of me get the cap threads started again! Turning counter clockwise to find the start point doesn't seem to help.

[skids]

I know that the caps with the schaeder valves are different from the 78's. I think you can get a socket on to try and keep it aligned straight. Turn the cap counter-clockwise until you feel the click of the first thread. Then bear down and turn in it. I think some have taken the spring out, turned it backwards, and marked the starting point, THEN with the spring back in, go for it. I think it is good to get help because it seems that you can only turn it like 1/3 of a turn before you have to reposition the wrist action. Constant pressure with help would be good.

Originally posted by laxdad
Can't for the life of me get the cap threads started again! Turning counter clockwise to find the start point doesn't seem to help.