Hard downshifting

[SanDiegoMike]

Howdy folks...
I'm finding that I occasionally need to use more pressure on my shift lever to get my bike into a lower gear. It's not consistent, and it doesn't happen when downshifting to the same gear every time (i.e. not always 4th to 3rd). Clutch engages where it should and seems to operate smoothly... no slipping when I get on it hard. Any ideas? Thanks, SDM

[skids]

Re: Hard downshifting

Do you ride with a cowboy hat??? Just kidding.
OK, now don't get offended because I am going to talk basic, and I don't know how much riding you have done. BUT, if you are about to downshift,
1. squeeze clutch
2. blip throttle just the right amount
3. downshift
The process, if done right, makes the slots and dogs rotate at nearly the same speed, making engagement easier.

Originally posted by SanDiegoMike
Howdy folks...

[TopCatGr58]

The downlow on the downshift!

Hey SDM,

Sometimes is not actually a need to put MORE pressure on the shift lever, but a matter of resetting the ratchet mechanism... aka the shift pawl, to be able to grab the next dowel pin on the shift drum! When the shift lever spring gets sprung/worn out, then when you shift down, it doesn't always bounce back up fully which would normally reset the shift pawl to grab the next dowel for the next down gear, so when you try to downshift, you're still pushing down on the previous gear dowel, until you pound on it a couple of times, causing it to bounce up and finally grab the next gear dowel.

So....next time it doesn't want to downshift, instead of trying to press down harder, just slightly pull up on the lever, NOT ENOUGH to shift back up a gear, just enough to move the lever up enough to reset the shift pawl, and then you should be able to easily downshift.

IF this works for you, then you now know that the spring isn't returning the lever back up properly, and you'll need to get a new spring and replace it, around $10.00 from Yamaha, still available!
T.C.

[Artic_rider]

Not to conflict with you oh very wise guru, but I would like to toss my .02 into your statement. You might recall I had the same problem there last month, and although you figured the spring was spung, it actually wasn't, it was improper allignment of the shift pawl. Pg 126, Figure 48 of the great XS book of knowledge is a detailed way of allinging stuff up. Didn't think much off it at the time, actually bought a new spring, but set it up as the book said, and my problems went away, and I got my 15 back from yamabandit. Worth a try I guess

[SanDiegoMike]

Thanks for the advice and recommendations, boys! Hey Arctic, which XS book are you refering to? Is it a relatively easy fix? I am pretty mechanically inclined, but I sure don't want to have to split the case if I don't need to. Oh yeah...no cowboy hat Skids Got my first bike @ 17...I'm 41 now, but there was a pretty long stretch where I didn't have a bike. Glad I found this one, though!!

[Artic_rider]

it would be the Clymer manual. Not sure if it will help in your situation. I would almost think maybe a shift fork might be wonky...but that is my very very humble oppinion, and anything I say shouldn't be taken too seriously around here. I am still learning on these bikes.

[LoserShoes]

Make sure the splines in the shifter lever aren't worn. Mine were, and replacing the lever made a great difference. The lever should be nice and tight on the shaft, does'n take much slop to mess things up.

Steve

[TopCatGr58]

Hey SDM,
In Clymer's manual, pages 125 and 126, it describes how to set the alignment of the shifting drum and shifting pawl. The mark that should line up with the trans in second gear should line up.
Here's a "not very good" picture, but if you look at the upper right hand corner, you'll see the shift pawl, there is a long thin arm that slides across the end of the shift drum, there is a small line etched about in the middle of it, across it, and then at about 11:30 clock position on the Shift Drum there is a matching little line there as well, this picture isn't in the "Shifted to 2nd gear" position, so they aren't lining up, but hopefully you can see what we're talking about!



BTW, you DON'T have to split the cases at all, just take off the left shift lever cover! The photo below shows the shift lever ingaged with the shift pawl lever, the finger/hand it pointing to the dots that should also line up. The shift lever spring in in the lower right corner behind the shift lever. Apologies for the poor quality of photos, these were taken with my old camera a few years ago!


T.C.

[DeanR]

TC, Is that trans cover another one with no oil behind it that can be removed at any time? In other words, which covers are Not removeable without draining oil?

[Artic_rider]

You WILL have to drain the oil to remove the Trans cover. Removing the cover in a public parking lot while being a complete noob to the xs, and bike repair in general...now that's funny, and ya, I did it last year

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Dean,

That's the Gear Shift cover, not the trans cover. The Tranny Pan is on the bottom of the engine=the oil pan! If you look at that picture, you'll see a nice big hole in the bottom middle, that's where the OIL returns to the Tranny pan! But, if you are able to lean the bike over on it's right side, then you could remove this cover WITHOUT draining the oil!

Essentially, the timing cover, and the alternator cover are the only 2 engine covers that are not oil chambers! The clutch cover, the Tranny pan, the shift cover are all oil chambered! But just like the shift cover, IF you lean the bike over on the left side, you can remove the clutch cover without draining the oil!
T.C.