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Ouch! That hurt. I'm not used to such filthy pictures...
I feel for you mate. Must have made you ill when you discovered it. I don't know how you weld up cast anything but if it can be done, someone here will know, if not, it's new head searching time
Automotive Imbecile.
Proud owner of 'The Swiftcicle'. (Swifty for short)
'78E Full Vetter Dresser.
1196 Big Bore Kit.
If that is a valve cover thread, its no biggie.... could see just 1 pic...
Some silicon/loctite/goo and it should hold OK. Not much oil there, just a lot of splashing around.
Is it only the one thread or more? I have half of the bottom block missing, and the bike runs like a champ... except some leaks around the crank and the gearbox is scre**e3d etc..
LP
If it doesn't have an engine, it's not a sport, it's only a game.
(stole that one from I-dont-know-who)
Bah... Drill down into the fin, tap the hole and get a longer bolt. Silicone the gasket in that corner. It's only a valve cover. Like STROM said, just splashy oil, no pressure.
HHmmm... a second thought. (and an even better one) Coat a spare bolt with grease of sumptin' and while holding it in place, form a new corner around it with JBWeld. As the JBWeld is hardening, spin the bolt in and out to ensure that it doesn't stick. Silicone the gasket in that area, and just don't crank the p!ss out of the bolt when tightening
"Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)
you can use a product called alumaweld with just a propane torch, but then you have to drill and tap. This will look like brand new from factory. I had the same problem with the very middle front valve cover bolt and fixed it...
MDRNF
79F.....Not Stock
80G......Not Stock Either....In the works
Was going to suggest Alumiweld myself. Gotta get the base metal HOT though. I had to use Oxygen/Acetylene. It tarnishes a dull grey as well, so you have to keep it polished and/or sealed afterward to keep a shine on it. It holds pretty well once you get the block hot enough though.
80 XS1100SG
81 XS400SH
Some men miss opportunity because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas Edison
I wouldn't heat up the head... might warp it. I don't think it should be a problem while the head is bolted on the cyls, but I still wouldn't like it. Hope you know of a GOOD alu welder. Its a bit trickie, but no biggie.
prometheus had a good second thaught tho... but then again, the head heats up quite a bit, so I don't think it will hold.
Get some pro advice, any GOOD welder or anyone worth anything working with metal should know about what to do. It is definetly fixable. Just dont ask anyone that is in a metal band. That doesn't count here.
LP
If it doesn't have an engine, it's not a sport, it's only a game.
(stole that one from I-dont-know-who)
Originally posted by strom I wouldn't heat up the head... might warp it. I don't think it should be a problem while the head is bolted on the cyls, but I still wouldn't like it. Hope you know of a GOOD alu welder. Its a bit trickie, but no biggie.
prometheus had a good second thaught tho... but then again, the head heats up quite a bit, so I don't think it will hold.
Get some pro advice, any GOOD welder or anyone worth anything working with metal should know about what to do. It is definetly fixable. Just dont ask anyone that is in a metal band. That doesn't count here.
LP
Seriously - Wouldn't JBweld be a safter place to start than something that could potentially WARP the heads??
Kristoffer
"Take apart yer carbs!"
1978 XS1100E - "The Maroon Baboon" (SOLD)
1979 XS1100 (3 of them) in the garage. Not deserving of names yet.
Normally I would weld a bushing next to it, drill a new hole and tap new theards on it.
On the other hand if it would still hold, use a Stainless steel bolt onit and weld/filll the area with aluminium. Stainless doen't tack to the alliminium. After welding screw the bolt out and you are fine with newly threaded aluminium.
The Dutchy.
Freedom is speaking the longing for life when the opinions of the ages inform your experience that death is all that awaits you. http://www.danasoft.com/sig/TheDutchy.jpg
It's not the heating that warps things when they are welded, it is the contraction of the weld filler metal when it cools (solidifies). Welding up in that corner should be no problem.
I agree with shoes, also it looks like you could also drill the existing hole smooth,run a round allen bolt through the bottom of it and screw a nut from the top....
MDRNF
79F.....Not Stock
80G......Not Stock Either....In the works
prometheus had a good second thaught tho... but then again, the head heats up quite a bit, so I don't think it will hold.
I won't go into the story of how I did it, but I cracked off a large chunk of the cylinder right above the cam chain tensioner. (That curvey part that sticks out) JBWeld has been holdin' nicely now fer four years,
"Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)
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