XJ engine removal and reinstallation/Starter Clutch

[Pat Kelly]

BikeBandit.com has the boot for $35

[Hepcat]

I started to tear out my engine last night. It took 1/2 an hour to get the carbs out and everything unhooked except 2 bolts to hold the front end of the engine up until I'm ready for final disassembly. I got stuck at disconnecting the drive shaft and had to go borrow a 12mm box end from a friend. (That only took another 2 1/2 hours...got caught by the tongue) Another cheater for gaining leverage is to take a deep socket (like a spark plug socket) that the open end of the wrench will fit in and a 6" or 8" socket drive extension...you might be surprised how much leverage you can put on the wrench like that. 10 mins more with the proper wrench and all that's left is to lift the engine out.

I didn't have a piece of wood around, so I used a breaker bar wrapped in a shop towel. Worked like a dream! Now all that's left is to wait for my housemates to get home and give me a hand laying the bike over and lifting the frame off of the engine.

Good luck to you all!

[tab1324]

Hepcat,


What are you working on in your engine? I'm taking a look at the starter clutch. Do you know tourque specs and stuff for all the case bolts and other miscellany that will be removed? I don't have a service manual so I'm kinda winging it at this point.

Tom B.

[Hepcat]

I'm tearing it apart to check the condition of the bearings, maybe do a preemptive strike on the 2nd gear fix, and just get an overall better idea of the condition of the bike. I'm tempted now to redo all the wiring since it gives me more trouble than anything lately...that could easily turn into me stripping it down to the frame and repainting it...and that would lead to me polishing the engine and looking for new headers that aren't rusty. It's a vicious cycle!

I have a Clymer manual for the XS1100's. It follows me back and forth between school in Hawaii and home in the summer. Having taken the engine out of my XS previously, removing it from the XJ was easy. The hard part now is finding the manual with the specs in it! I can picture it in my mind's eye, but can't find it anywhere. It'll turn up, but my project is on hold until I find it. It's just a good thing that the XJ engine is pretty much identical to the XS aside from the electronic advance and the YICS carbs.

[John]

Originally posted by tab1324
Hepcat,


What are you working on in your engine? I'm taking a look at the starter clutch. Do you know tourque specs and stuff for all the case bolts and other miscellany that will be removed? I don't have a service manual so I'm kinda winging it at this point.

Tom B.

The engine torque specs are the same for an XS as the are for the XJ engine. If you have an XS manual, the info is in there.

[Hepcat]

Thanks John,

Now I just need to find it...I guess that means I have to dig into my boxes in the closet and see if some over-ambitious roommate cleaned up for me.

One of my house-mates thinks it's her duty to "put away" any books left on the coffee table for more than 10 minutes. Trouble is, she never remembers where she puts things when she "tidy's up"

Oh well, like I said, it gives me an excuse to run new wires and clean the bike.

[tab1324]

splitting the case

yeah I know the "tidy up" bit myself - I'm married. "Where did you put my screw driver that was sitting next to the sink?" "I never touched your screw driver". Then I find it in the junk drawer, along with about 20 other small tools which have mysteriously dissapeared.

Hey - when splitting the case, can I just pull all the side covers (alternator, tranny cover, etc) and then split the case upside down? It looks like I could do it that way but I'm wondering if something is goign to fall out or if I need to remove anything else before getting at the starter clutch.

I too am of the mindset that I'll fix it even if it's not quite broken, however I'm not going to strip the bike and paint the frame. Just clean er up.

Stay tuned - depending on how far I get and how frustrated, I may part this bike out yet. I've got a decent set of headers and pipes which may be for sale.. We'll see........


Tom B.

[puv]

I'm in the process of removing my XJ's engine as well. I almost have everything before pulling it out. I too was looking at wether or not I could split the case without much more than removing the side covers. BTW I'm having to replace my rod barrings, that's why I'm removing my engine. So far everything is going according to book.

puv

[tab1324]

splitting the case

I need help from someone who's split the case. I have the engine upside down with all side covers, tranny cover, etc removed. Can I just remove all the bolts and lift the bottom of the case off of the top half? Are there concerns with the tranny components? I'm trying to get at the starter clutch.

Tom B.

[planedick]

Order...

With the engine upside down remove the bolts in the proper order and pull the bottom off of the top. You really need a manual like Clymers because there are lots of things that have to be done in just the right order and tightened just the right amount, etc. Anything less is a real butcher job and you won't be happy with the results.

[tab1324]

ordered Clymers - help still needed

I have the Clymers manual and have removed everything according to the manual. The manual is for a 78-81 XS and mines an 82 - manuals for 82 are hard to come by... Anyway, the engine is the same with the exception of the Yics system.

So - the question now is, now that every bolt, cover, etc. is removed, I'm still having a difficult time seperating the case halves. There hung up on something near the alternator rotor shaft seal. I get the entire case seperated about 1/8" but it always hangs up there.. It looks like theres a couple locating pins that may be the problem. I don't want to pry between the case halves - any suggestions? I've been beating on the case with a rubber mallet while pulling... no luck.

Tom B.

[planedick]

Sounds like...

If you have removed all the bolts and the breather cap to get at the last of them, (Clymers, Chapt 4, Page 103 - 105) it may be that the crank is lifting with the bottom and the primary chain is stopping it. Make sure the crank and tranny shafts stay in the upper half as you lift the bottom off. If you need to pry, use things like wood or plastic wedges. Any damage to the surfaces will mean it will always be a leaker.

[Fredjohny]

Hey,
there is a few bolts that hide under stuff....after I found all of them, mine split easily.

[tab1324]

hadn't thought of that..

I've got all the bolts removed according to the manual but I hadn't thought about the chain holding things up. I wonder if I have a helper hold the crank down and lift the bottom off, if that will work. I haven't noticed the crank moving with the case though... Will try again tonight. Thanks.

Tom B.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Tab,

Just a shot in the dark, did you take off the oil filter cover!? There are 2 case bolts under/inside that chamber as well!
T.C.