XJ engine removal and reinstallation/Starter Clutch

[tab1324]

I looked around on the site and wasn't able to find much of anything about engine removal - hopefully that means that not many people have had to do it. I've got to take it out to work on the starter clutch.

What is required? As I look at it, it seems pretty simple. Remove all electrical connections, carbs, rear wheel, drive shaft and then of course the motor mounts. Am I missing anything here? Is some of this more difficult than I'm thinking?

I don't have a bike stand so I'll be doing this from the center stand with the back propped up (after the wheel is removed).

Tom B.

[rover]

If you are doing this alone, remove all the things you said, then jack the engine up in front and pull the long thru bolt, then the same in the rear. Raise the engine high enough that you can slide the bolts back in UNDER the engine. Then you can slide it out the left side. If you can get some help, lay the bike on the left side with the engine blocked up a bit, loosen everything, and with help, lift the bike off the engine. Most repairs don't require engine removal. What are you repairing that you think the engine must come out?

[T748]

I pulled mine out over the winter for the "2nd gear fix" and a quick look around inside the motor. I followed the factory service manual on getting it out and in with a few exceptions. I didn't remove the middle drive. the only thing that did was make me rip the rubber boot that covers the u joint. Oh ya the book says remove to right. It worked for me to take it out to the left. If you don't have the factory service manual, the dealer can get you one for around $60. It's worth it. A quick run down of there order is this....
Remove-
seat,fuel tank and side covers.
Theft protection chain and box.
Horn,mufflers,footrest and brake pedal.
Exhaust header pipe.
Air cleaner case and carburators.
Disconnect- battery ground and engine ground,Wiring connectors, clutch cable. starter cable at solinoid.
(I didn't see it in the instructions, but yank the battery too.)
Disconnect the drive shaft from the middle drive.
Remove top engine mounting bolts from frame.
Remove oil filter bolt and element.
The manual then goes on to say this -
"Slide the engine forward. Remove the engine to the right. Positin a box or other support to the right of the machine for assistance when removing the engine.
Remove the 7 middle gear case securing bolts and remove the middle gear case."

What I did was have the bike on the center stand. stick a floor jack under the motor. raise it up enough to slide the motor forward a bit. I tried to do like they said to the right but there was a bracket in the way. The mid drive got hung up in the boot too. Should have removed the mid drive first. I took the motor and slid it out to the left onto a milk crate. It isnt a hard job to do alone. It would have been easier with a helper.-Tom.

Oh ya, rovers idea of sliding the bolts back under the motor sounds like a fantastic idea!!!

[T748]

If you have acsess to an engine stand, it makes engine disassymbly alot nicer. Well, if your splitting the case I guess it's not going to help once your that far. Up to that point I think it's well worth it. I made brackets out of angle iron using the front motor mount points. -Tom.

[motoman]

Hey tab.........dont have to remove rear wheel or drive-shaft assembly!............lot of extra NOT necessary. Do all other like you stated, lift and pull motor out RIGHT side of bike and set on one of those roll-around mechanic seats, perfect straight- across height. Re- intall same way turning U-joint on drive shaft toward right side proir to installation. As motor goes across towards U-joint, just start it against output shaft of final drive, and all will drop in place..........trust me, did mine myself and I'm only 5'10"@ 180lbs. Gradually jiggling motor across al just fell in place, then pryed up a bit and put in motor mount bolts........took less than 5min., and do not seperate middle gear case from motor. Besure and remove and install from the right side of bike........trust me, it's childs play to do this on one of these while on the center stand.

[motoman]

Hey there T748........very simple and nice set-up for workin on motor. Have to keep that in mind when I decide to do top-end and gear fix on the original motor that's on garage floor out of my Venturer........Thanks for the pic. there!

[tab1324]

headers

Do I have to remove the headers and exhaust? It looks like I can slide the motor out over the top of them. The headers of course have to be disconnected from the intake...

I might get crazy and dig into this tonight. All the rest of it doesn't seem that difficult - especially if it works not to remove the rear wheel and drive shaft.

Tom B.

[motoman]

It'll work fine Tab, remove header pipes and rest of stuff needed to pull motor out of right side. Just watch as you take out to right and don't catch shaft boot on output coupler. Goin back in get some help lifting it in so other person can hold boot back out of way and keep U-joint turned toward right side as motor comes across frame.

[tab1324]

clarifications and parts info

Motoman,

Can you clarify removing the through bolts and resting the motor on them? I've removed all the accessory stuff tonight so the only thing left is to disconnect the drive, and undo the (4) bolts that hold the engine in place (after draining the oil of course).

I had a heck of a time getting the left side headers off - actually bent up the exhaust flanges near the clamp because it wasn't coming off. I ended up removing the mufflers and wiggling, prying and pounding with a rubber mallet until the header connection came loose. The exhast flange and "gasket" (soft metal sleeve) inside the flange is messed up pretty bad. Where can I get replacements? I think I'll go through the hole exhaust seeing as how easy it is to remove.

What other things should I do when I get the motor out? I'm working on the starter clutch which is the reason for removal. Should I fix what ain't broke? IE: 2nd gear, cam chain, etc...

Tom B.

[motoman]

How many miles on bike? From the poll there doesn't seem to be any corrolation that particular years/models were more prone than others having the 'dogs' getting rounded enough to cause not staying in first or second gear. If it were mine I would do it while out. Use the tech tips and follow those procedures for doing it. You'll be glad you did, unless you just need practice pulling motor out at a later date. Lifting motor up a bit and putting the long bottom mount bolts back through guess could be of some help in sliding motor out and back in. I didn't use that method, just picked it up a bit, and across lower frame cradle out and back in the same.(have someone help, makes it easier.) Also, be sure and remove filter housing before removing, and leave it off putting motor back in.

[motoman]

Hey Tab, for a header to pipe gasket replacement I use the flat abestos type material like used on stove doors and smeared some Indian Head gasket sealer on pipe to kinda hold wrap in place while sliding pipe together. Also with Dremal cut-off wheel removed a bit of tab from clamp ear so it would pull togeter tighter. Hate having an exhaust leak where outside air is sucked in on decelerating and causing backfires. I loosely hung mufflers pulling then to gether at crossover with a cabinet clamp while tightening. Then slide header pipes in muffler flare, then into head in that sequence. Tighten header studs, then header clamps, and if there's a small gap between hanger and muffler mount, use a flat washer evenvely on both sides and tighten muffler hanger bolts last. Have seen many a nice original system fracture at Y where header pipes and other fractures cause of inatentive installations. Some things need to be bolted all together loosely before tightening.........this is one of those things. Just my 2-cents worth................Brant.

[tab1324]

final drive coupler

Moto,

How did you remove the 4 bolts at the final drive coupler? This is where I'm getting stuck right now - I can't stop the rear wheel from moving and get enough force on the bolts to remove them. Are they reverse threaded for some reason? There only 12 MM and my wrench is only about 6" long. I tried sitting on the bike and that didn't work cause I can't get enough leverage on the bolts... I'll have to try it with another person sitting on the bike holding the brake. Any suggestions?

Tom B.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Tom,

Get a piece of wood and stick it in between the spokes, will stop the tire without having to sit on it or hold the brake! You could also shift it into high gear, the engine will resist turning quite a bit there, but then you need to be able to rotate it to get to the other bolts!
T.C.

[motoman]

What T.C said Tom........and if needed, hook another box-end wrench (closed end) into jaws(open end) of another one for extra leverage.

[tab1324]

engine is out

I was worried about doing the wood between the spokes thing - I was thinking it might damage the wheel. Did it last night and it worked like a charm. I tore the boot on the final drive too. Do you know where I can get a replacement?

Tom B.