State of things

[Firehawk]

I ordered new boots, and got them in. I adjusted the cam chain tensioner. And then I removed the plugs the mechanics put in since upon inspection, they shouldn't be there.

Bike fired up almost right away.

However, I still have problems with it decellerating slowly. I was told by a mechanic this may be due to a lean condition?

Idle seems a bit rough, but I've been trying to readjust the idle screw and whatnot.

And it still won't run if I put the fuel enrichener on. I don't know if it's because it's warm enough outside I don't need it, or because something is still wrong with it.

[DiverRay]

Firehawk,
Have you syncronized the carbs with a vacum gauge or carb sticks? If not, you NEED to. This should help with 70% of the remaining problems you have. Don't bother going to a mechanic for this, you can buy the tools and do it yourself for less money than one time at a shop.
If you don't have the Clymers or Haynes manual, let me know. I should be able to scan the pages you need and email them to you.
Ray

[Firehawk]

Where can I get a vacuum gauge? And if I only have the one, instead of the 4-gauge tool, how would I be able to accurately do that, since the Clymer I have assumes you have the 4-gauge tool.

[DiverRay]

You can get the "carb stick", a 4 position mercury tool at most motorcycle accessory shops. There is a thread in the Tech Tips http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance...shtml#synching
on building an adapter for a single gauge to the 4 carbs.
I like the carb sticks, as you just line up all 4 tubes to about the same mark.
You may want to look and see if another XS owner is near you, and can help out.
Ray

[John]

I bought a four gauge setup from JC Whitney for about $65. Works fine.

[Firehawk]

Nevermind, I guess.

I just went back out to start it up and it's doing the same thing. Just cranking, smells of gasoline, and nothing seems to be happening. If I twist the throttle, one or two cylinders will light up, but it's shortlived.

I'm so frustrated with this. The shop I've taken it to doesn't know what's wrong. I don't know what's wrong.

The boots did need replaced, but apparently they weren't the cause of the 'no start' problem.

[shotgun]

Sounds like your carbs are still not clean

[Firehawk]

But that's the thing. I've completely disassembled them, and dipped them. I've shot carb cleaner through all the orfices on multiple occasions, and a shop has even went through them.

I can't think of how they couldn't be clean.

[DiverRay]

Firehawk,
Pull the carbs one last time. replace the needle and seats in all carbs, if it's an '80 or newer, don't forget the "O" ring on the seat. Adjust the floats to 1mm MORE than factory specification for your model. IF you have the metal floats, check them all for "liquid" inside.
DO NOT LET THE "SHOP" TOUCH THE BIKE AGAIN!!! Idiots should not be allowed to touch an XS1100.
It sounds like the carbs are not shutting the fuel off. #1 would be the float, #2 needle and seat.
Ray

[randy]

Jake,

While you've got the carbs off, do the 'bread tie' sync, that should get you in the ballpark for a steady idle until you get the mercury sticks

[DiverRay]

One last IMPORTANT thing. Are you trying to start it on the center stand, or the side stand? If possible, use the center stand. The floats may be hitting the carb sides, and hanging up when the bike is on the side stand. That could be a big part of the problem.
Ray

[pathfinder]

But that's the thing. I've completely disassembled them, and dipped them. I've shot carb cleaner through all the orfices on multiple occasions, and a shop has even went through them.

That's it in a nutshell 1) never dip - it ruins some of the seals inside and between the carbs 2) never ever, ever take to a shop where the mechanics aren't as old as the bike. Maybe ok to let them change the tire if you already have it off the bike, but that is as close as they should ever get.

[Brian_D]

Yep, what path said!
Before dipping the carbs, did you remove the butterfly shaft seals (Part #48-5021 at Mikesxs)?
Also from your other thread, you stated that the pilot screw covers were removed by the shop and not you - this means that the small o-ring under the pilot screw was destroyed as well (Part #48-5012 at Mikesxs).
Hopefully, the entire diaphram and slide needle were removed prior to dip.

[Firehawk]

The floats are set at 22mm from that lip, and 25mm from the gasket surface. The Clymer says they should be 23mm from the gasket surface. The floats are plastic.

Two floats weren't as "springy" as the other two when I adjusted them last night. I don't know if it's because they somehow took on some extra weight or if the valve seat springs were bad for that side. I'm gonna, after I try starting it again, go out and try and purchase two new floats, as when looking over the float valve, it seemed to be alright.

It seems to me as though it is too rich, since when I put the enrichner circuit on it absolutely refuses to start.

I'm gonna go out and disconnect the fuel lines from the carbs and see if I can't bleed a bit of fuel off the top and see if that will start the bike.

I haven't seen any o-rings on the pilot screws, but there is a brass washer on each.

And no, I dipped without removing the butterflies, as the Clymer didn't suggest that (and that was the first time I'd been into carburetors and I didn't know of this site at the time). If those seals were bad, would it lead to problems like this?

[skids]

Originally posted by Firehawk

I haven't seen any o-rings on the pilot screws, but there is a brass washer on each.

And no, I dipped without removing the butterflies, as the Clymer didn't suggest that (and that was the first time I'd been into carburetors and I didn't know of this site at the time). If those seals were bad, would it lead to problems like this?

If the butterfly shaft seals rotted from the dip, it would draw air and cause leanness. Same thing with the rubber aound the pilot screws (80 and 81). If you have 80 or 81 style carbs, the fuel valves (aka float needle and seats) are pushef into the carb body and each seals with an O-ring. It is a common mistake not to remove the needle seats when dipping the carbs and this will cause destruction of the o-rings. You must have a good petcock system (standard) or octopus (special) if the carbs are not overflowing when the engine is off, if the above mentioned conditions exist.