It all started at 1pm on Tuesday 15th June leaving my home in Derry, Northern Ireland with the clock milage reading 55025miles. The first day was a straightforward 4 and 1/2 ride of approx 150 miles to Dublin with a brief stop at "The Rainbow Cafe" in Augnacloy for a bite to eat. The weather was wet but bearable, I stopped over in Dublin for a concert by New Zealand rockers "The Datsuns" and of course a few pints of Guinness.
Next day, Wednesday was yet again an easy day with only 100miles to drive between Dublin and Rosslare to catch the ferry for Roscoff in Brittany, France. At last the sun made an appearance making the journey very pleasant, a good thing as I was dreading the 18hrs overnight sail to France. After boarding the ship at 4.30pm, finding my economy cabin (approx 4 feet below the waterline and Judging by the noise very close to the engine room) I changed out of my leathers and enjoyed a competition with myself, to see how much Guinness I could drink while afloat, don't ask me the result as this is one of the points of my journey where I lost a few hours to alcohol.
Waking up the next morning, Thursday at nine O'clock I got dressed and climbed the six flights of stairs to the outer deck. I was very suprised not only to see land but quickly realised that we would be docking quite soon. Disembarked just before 11am now the panic was really on as I had to learn to drive on the right-hand side of the road, drive 207miles to St. Mere Eglise, Normandy (you know the village where the American Paratrooper got his parachute caught on the church spire) and try my french out for real. The day turned out alright despite a few minutes panic around Dol-De-Bretagne trying to find a petrol station after driving almost 15miles on reserve, finally suceeding after a further 2 miles of darting round village streets. After reaching St. Mere Eglise and checking in to my hotel I paid a visit to Utah Beach nearly killing two scooter riders on the way (DRIVE ON THE RIGHT! DRIVE ON THE RIGHT!)
The first part of Friday was spent visiting the remaining Normandy Beaches and the American Cemetary above Omaha beach. A very humbling experience though I must say my visit to Utah beach on the previous night was the most humbling as at the time the tide was completely out as it was on the morning of the D-Day landings, those fellas had an unbelievable distance to run up those beaches.
The rest of Friday I travelled between Caen and Gent in Belgium clocking close to 400miles WARNING! I would warn all motorcyclists about the large bridge over the harbour at Le Havre, France as it not only has lethal side winds but also when you are approx 3/4 distance across the bridge these blow in completely the opposite direction as if a switch has been flicked, resulting in the bike changing lanes whether you like it or not. On arriving in Gent, Belgium I had a bit of trouble finding my hotel, as persistent rain was falling and my old injuries were aching I was hoping for a room with a large bath. I wasn't disappointed I didn't just get a bath, I got a Jacuzzi bath and I have to say the nicest hotel I have ever stayed in, The Trianon Hotel, http://www.sleeping-in-belgium.com/page_hotel_28048.htm and very cheap at only 62 euros for a double room (no single supplement, GREAT!).
At last Saturday was here the final leg of my journey to XS11 rally, although the rally was on over three days I had planned just to attend Saturday evening and Sunday. I confess this was because I was worried about the language barrier with the Europeans and I was also worried that I wouldn't get along with the English speaking contingient. NOT TRUE!!! Each and every person I met at the Rally were salt of the earth (it's a compliment) and I thoroughly enjoyed myself, especially as everybody had brought different alcohol with them and we all shared, making for a good mixture of drinks. This lead to much dancing, shouting and falling over. I Collected longest distance price for 1352miles overland receiving a patch depicting the Yamaha "three-arrows" circular logo and genuine Yamaha Backpack, Thank-you Uwe and Friends. This lead to more shouting, dancing and falling over. * YOU'LL NEVER BEAT THE IRISH! *
Sunday morning, Happy birthday to me! Said goodbye to my new english friends ( the ones that were awake anyway ) sorry I didn't get to see all of them on Sunday but all being well will be at next years rally. Headed for Amsterdam (it was my birthday) and yet again had a panic for petrol around the village of Rhede on the German-Dutch border, I had taken the wrong junction around Weener, no really it's a German town. Eventually got sorted out, didn't think an XS could do 20miles on reserve and still be running. Got into Amsterdam and despite a bit of running round the one-way system I got very lucky and came across the street where my hotel was almost by accident. The Rho Hotel, not to bad for a place to stay, 95 euros with private off street parking (very important in Amsterdam, TOP TIP!!! you must never use underground car parks in Amsterdam unless you really want your bike stolen) When you are travelling alone you have to make your own Craic (fun) so I decided to make a nusiance of myself by going round all the Irish theme pubs in Amsterdam and try to get free drink on the basis that I was adding authenticity (spell-check) to their establishment, when this failed I then tried for Birthday drinks or kisses, alas I was completely unsucessful and I have to say the most impolite bar staff I met abroad were Irish working abroad. Upon hearing an Irish accent I greeted them pointing out I was also Irish and the vast majority looked at me as if I had three horns growing on my head. Irish barmaids abroad 0 points Dutch barmaids 10 points.
Monday morning, serious headache and druth (thirst) fortunately I had a few more hours in Amsterdam before I had to make for the boat from the Hook Of Holand to Harwich. I spent these visting another Irish bar on Rokin off Dam Square where I knew from previous visits I would be able to get the full Irish Breakfast (bacon, sausage, beans, fried egg,hash brown and tomato) with coffee for 11 euros, no croissants and cheese for me. Very tempted by Guinness pumps but left them alone, still only 11 O'clock. At the Hook Of Holland I bumped into about 15 Englismen on various Norton's (Commando, Dominator 88 lovely machine, rotary's etc.) coming from an owners rally in North Holland, most of them were in their 50's and 60's and after hearing some of their stories realised they were complete madmen on the road. The boat ride seemed to take forever especially as one of the engines failed, disembarked at around 7:30pm, was pleased when I realised London and my brothers house were only about 70 miles. I had noticed that the oil was dangerously low in the sight glass and had to make a short stop to top it up (first problem the whole trip).
Tuesday morning, I was starting to feel the affects of a cold and though it was not serious I felt as if I had a razorblade in each nostril but weather sunny and warm. I tried to get into central London for a sightseeing trip on the bike but just could not find my way and took a short, illegal stop in a Police parking bay to allow my rear brake fluid to cool. it had turned to water, result:no rear brake. After this I just headed for the M25 and M4 to Bristol past Swindon (Hello! Andy Pugh) then to Newport in Wales, from where I took a route north to Blackwood (hometown of "Manic Street Preachers" ). After a brief stop to buy batteries I noticed my headlight warning light was on and investigation showed that my dipped beam had failed, time to get the tool kit out. Around this time rain began to fall, rain which would become persistent for the rest of my trip. After replacing the headlight bulb I continued on through Wales to the north and a town called Dolgellau, pronounced dol-geck-line I believe. As I was unable to find the campsite that I had used 5 years previously, I was soaking wet and it was still raining I was only to pleased when a roadside inn said they had a single room for £28. Got dried off, changed and went downstairs to a thoroughly enjoyable evening of drink and pleasant company.
Wednesday, the last day of my trip with only 5 hours separating me from Ireland. As always my last day was spent doing my best to get back to Ireland and back home to Derry as quick as phisically possible. Rain and strong winds again, thanked god I wasn't booked on one of the smaller, faster ferries as these were all cancelled due to rough sea conditions. After a few hours waiting round holyhead, eventually got on the boat with the worry that just as I thought I had previously thought the front brake was getting spongy, this was a major upset to my no stop strategy for the drive between Dublin and Derry. After disembarking in Dublin port, I concentrated on getting out of the city and up the M1 relying heavily on my rear brake. Around Ardee a few "braking heavily from speed" tests showed that I had nearly no front brake, so at the next filling station outside Carrickmacross I stopped and once again pulled out the tool kit. As I had feared the resevoir was completely empty, I cursed myself for not checking it before leaving home and bought a bottle of dot 3, it was all they had and would have to do. I realised that although the resevoir was empty, the air in the pipes would still be between the master cylinder and the splitter on the front of the lower headstock. This would save time as it meant I only had to bleed one caliper, a theory which proved sound as after bleeding one side the lever was once "rock-hard", unfortunatley a small amount of brake fluid had got onto my front tyre, I cleaned as much of it off as possible and made a note to be careful in right turns for the next 10-20miles. I am glad to say this was the last upset of my journey home despite heavy rain and heavy spray I made it home in one piece and in good time.
I hope you all get as much enjoyment out of reading this as I did riding the 2398miles round Ireland, France, Belgium, Holland, Germany, England and Wales. Thanks again to the organisers of the Rally and all the people who made me feel so welcome when I got there. Special thanks to Mike, Andy, Brian and Co. see you in Belgium next year BOTH NIGHTS. I would appreciate any reader feedback from this ride report, thaks for reading this far I know it's a long one, Ride Safe and Good Luck!
Next day, Wednesday was yet again an easy day with only 100miles to drive between Dublin and Rosslare to catch the ferry for Roscoff in Brittany, France. At last the sun made an appearance making the journey very pleasant, a good thing as I was dreading the 18hrs overnight sail to France. After boarding the ship at 4.30pm, finding my economy cabin (approx 4 feet below the waterline and Judging by the noise very close to the engine room) I changed out of my leathers and enjoyed a competition with myself, to see how much Guinness I could drink while afloat, don't ask me the result as this is one of the points of my journey where I lost a few hours to alcohol.
Waking up the next morning, Thursday at nine O'clock I got dressed and climbed the six flights of stairs to the outer deck. I was very suprised not only to see land but quickly realised that we would be docking quite soon. Disembarked just before 11am now the panic was really on as I had to learn to drive on the right-hand side of the road, drive 207miles to St. Mere Eglise, Normandy (you know the village where the American Paratrooper got his parachute caught on the church spire) and try my french out for real. The day turned out alright despite a few minutes panic around Dol-De-Bretagne trying to find a petrol station after driving almost 15miles on reserve, finally suceeding after a further 2 miles of darting round village streets. After reaching St. Mere Eglise and checking in to my hotel I paid a visit to Utah Beach nearly killing two scooter riders on the way (DRIVE ON THE RIGHT! DRIVE ON THE RIGHT!)
The first part of Friday was spent visiting the remaining Normandy Beaches and the American Cemetary above Omaha beach. A very humbling experience though I must say my visit to Utah beach on the previous night was the most humbling as at the time the tide was completely out as it was on the morning of the D-Day landings, those fellas had an unbelievable distance to run up those beaches.
The rest of Friday I travelled between Caen and Gent in Belgium clocking close to 400miles WARNING! I would warn all motorcyclists about the large bridge over the harbour at Le Havre, France as it not only has lethal side winds but also when you are approx 3/4 distance across the bridge these blow in completely the opposite direction as if a switch has been flicked, resulting in the bike changing lanes whether you like it or not. On arriving in Gent, Belgium I had a bit of trouble finding my hotel, as persistent rain was falling and my old injuries were aching I was hoping for a room with a large bath. I wasn't disappointed I didn't just get a bath, I got a Jacuzzi bath and I have to say the nicest hotel I have ever stayed in, The Trianon Hotel, http://www.sleeping-in-belgium.com/page_hotel_28048.htm and very cheap at only 62 euros for a double room (no single supplement, GREAT!).
At last Saturday was here the final leg of my journey to XS11 rally, although the rally was on over three days I had planned just to attend Saturday evening and Sunday. I confess this was because I was worried about the language barrier with the Europeans and I was also worried that I wouldn't get along with the English speaking contingient. NOT TRUE!!! Each and every person I met at the Rally were salt of the earth (it's a compliment) and I thoroughly enjoyed myself, especially as everybody had brought different alcohol with them and we all shared, making for a good mixture of drinks. This lead to much dancing, shouting and falling over. I Collected longest distance price for 1352miles overland receiving a patch depicting the Yamaha "three-arrows" circular logo and genuine Yamaha Backpack, Thank-you Uwe and Friends. This lead to more shouting, dancing and falling over. * YOU'LL NEVER BEAT THE IRISH! *
Sunday morning, Happy birthday to me! Said goodbye to my new english friends ( the ones that were awake anyway ) sorry I didn't get to see all of them on Sunday but all being well will be at next years rally. Headed for Amsterdam (it was my birthday) and yet again had a panic for petrol around the village of Rhede on the German-Dutch border, I had taken the wrong junction around Weener, no really it's a German town. Eventually got sorted out, didn't think an XS could do 20miles on reserve and still be running. Got into Amsterdam and despite a bit of running round the one-way system I got very lucky and came across the street where my hotel was almost by accident. The Rho Hotel, not to bad for a place to stay, 95 euros with private off street parking (very important in Amsterdam, TOP TIP!!! you must never use underground car parks in Amsterdam unless you really want your bike stolen) When you are travelling alone you have to make your own Craic (fun) so I decided to make a nusiance of myself by going round all the Irish theme pubs in Amsterdam and try to get free drink on the basis that I was adding authenticity (spell-check) to their establishment, when this failed I then tried for Birthday drinks or kisses, alas I was completely unsucessful and I have to say the most impolite bar staff I met abroad were Irish working abroad. Upon hearing an Irish accent I greeted them pointing out I was also Irish and the vast majority looked at me as if I had three horns growing on my head. Irish barmaids abroad 0 points Dutch barmaids 10 points.
Monday morning, serious headache and druth (thirst) fortunately I had a few more hours in Amsterdam before I had to make for the boat from the Hook Of Holand to Harwich. I spent these visting another Irish bar on Rokin off Dam Square where I knew from previous visits I would be able to get the full Irish Breakfast (bacon, sausage, beans, fried egg,hash brown and tomato) with coffee for 11 euros, no croissants and cheese for me. Very tempted by Guinness pumps but left them alone, still only 11 O'clock. At the Hook Of Holland I bumped into about 15 Englismen on various Norton's (Commando, Dominator 88 lovely machine, rotary's etc.) coming from an owners rally in North Holland, most of them were in their 50's and 60's and after hearing some of their stories realised they were complete madmen on the road. The boat ride seemed to take forever especially as one of the engines failed, disembarked at around 7:30pm, was pleased when I realised London and my brothers house were only about 70 miles. I had noticed that the oil was dangerously low in the sight glass and had to make a short stop to top it up (first problem the whole trip).
Tuesday morning, I was starting to feel the affects of a cold and though it was not serious I felt as if I had a razorblade in each nostril but weather sunny and warm. I tried to get into central London for a sightseeing trip on the bike but just could not find my way and took a short, illegal stop in a Police parking bay to allow my rear brake fluid to cool. it had turned to water, result:no rear brake. After this I just headed for the M25 and M4 to Bristol past Swindon (Hello! Andy Pugh) then to Newport in Wales, from where I took a route north to Blackwood (hometown of "Manic Street Preachers" ). After a brief stop to buy batteries I noticed my headlight warning light was on and investigation showed that my dipped beam had failed, time to get the tool kit out. Around this time rain began to fall, rain which would become persistent for the rest of my trip. After replacing the headlight bulb I continued on through Wales to the north and a town called Dolgellau, pronounced dol-geck-line I believe. As I was unable to find the campsite that I had used 5 years previously, I was soaking wet and it was still raining I was only to pleased when a roadside inn said they had a single room for £28. Got dried off, changed and went downstairs to a thoroughly enjoyable evening of drink and pleasant company.
Wednesday, the last day of my trip with only 5 hours separating me from Ireland. As always my last day was spent doing my best to get back to Ireland and back home to Derry as quick as phisically possible. Rain and strong winds again, thanked god I wasn't booked on one of the smaller, faster ferries as these were all cancelled due to rough sea conditions. After a few hours waiting round holyhead, eventually got on the boat with the worry that just as I thought I had previously thought the front brake was getting spongy, this was a major upset to my no stop strategy for the drive between Dublin and Derry. After disembarking in Dublin port, I concentrated on getting out of the city and up the M1 relying heavily on my rear brake. Around Ardee a few "braking heavily from speed" tests showed that I had nearly no front brake, so at the next filling station outside Carrickmacross I stopped and once again pulled out the tool kit. As I had feared the resevoir was completely empty, I cursed myself for not checking it before leaving home and bought a bottle of dot 3, it was all they had and would have to do. I realised that although the resevoir was empty, the air in the pipes would still be between the master cylinder and the splitter on the front of the lower headstock. This would save time as it meant I only had to bleed one caliper, a theory which proved sound as after bleeding one side the lever was once "rock-hard", unfortunatley a small amount of brake fluid had got onto my front tyre, I cleaned as much of it off as possible and made a note to be careful in right turns for the next 10-20miles. I am glad to say this was the last upset of my journey home despite heavy rain and heavy spray I made it home in one piece and in good time.
I hope you all get as much enjoyment out of reading this as I did riding the 2398miles round Ireland, France, Belgium, Holland, Germany, England and Wales. Thanks again to the organisers of the Rally and all the people who made me feel so welcome when I got there. Special thanks to Mike, Andy, Brian and Co. see you in Belgium next year BOTH NIGHTS. I would appreciate any reader feedback from this ride report, thaks for reading this far I know it's a long one, Ride Safe and Good Luck!
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