Tweet
Camp XS 98
Camp XS 98
Ride Report
by Dave Hogue
To say there were times when I thought this would never happen is an understatement!
Monday August 3rd, 1998
Was pretty well packed the night before. However, having never done anything like this, you should have seen how many iterations my "road configuration" went through! Still thought I was too heavy when I left, and the outbound trip proved me right.
Left my house around 8:15am after saying good bye to my wife and two kids (my wife had that half amused/half concerned look in her eye, as if to say, "I can't believe you are really doing this, but hey, you're a big boy..."). To her benefit, she never once made me feel guilty about wanting to do this... she is a good woman, and I love her for it.
After stopping at the bank for funds and a few other minor stops, I jumped on I-465 west to I-74 west. My first stop was in Crawfordsville, Indiana for gas. Short stop and then back on I-74... averaging 75 to 80 mph. Just past Champaign/Urbana, Illinois, I stopped for gas again. Got off of bike, and the whole seat (including my backpack and trunk) got off with me! Uh oh... my predictions on weight came true earlier than I thought! Filled up the tank and moved out of the way to repair. Here's a picture of what that looked like....
First off, had to pound the steel seat mount on bike (shaped like a hook) back into some semblance of true. Then I removed the seat mount from the bottom of the seat, went across the street to an Amoco with a shop and asked top "borrow" a vice to see if I could get that true. Got it close. While re-assembling the whole mess, a guy driving a tri-axle stops and asks me if I need any help... nice guy. In the meantime, four guys on Harley's go by, give me a glance and see that my bike is not a Harley, and proceed on without a word. I'm sorry, but I really feel it is the fact that we ride that is important... not what we ride... I call them a few choice names under my breath and proceed with the re-assembly, which includes moving the serious (but reasonable?) amount of tools in my trunk to my tank bag. The only other "damage" was a bent but still operating left rear turn signal.... oh well, I'll fix that when I get home. One hour gone... back on I-74 west.
Quick stop for gas again just pat Moline... all looks good. Back on road... butt is getting sore! When I-74 turns north towards Davenport, I hit more construction (a theme for my first day!). I fall in behind a van trailering a bike (figured it must be a Harley!). When the construction ends, I pull up past him and look at the bike... it is an XS!!!! I pull up to the van and give him a thumbs up! I don't think he got it. Wondered for awhile if he was going to XS Camp (he wasn't). I catch I-80 and he takes the by-pass...never see him again. Stop for gas right after I get on I-80... getting around 34.5 mpg... not too bad considering my weight and speed. Will turn out to be the best mileage of the trip.
Just past Iowa City, Iowa, I stop for gas and check oil... about 1 quart low. Damn rings...Butt is really getting sore! Also, the sky is starting to get dark... I have experienced no rain so far. I jump back on I-80, and jump back off at the next exit... time for rain gear. Jump back on and rain is not to bad at first... then WHAM! I can't see 20 feet in front of my face! I pass an exit, hoping for a bridge, and then realize that this is not going to work! Rest area ahead, which is good news considering that the rain has just caused me to lose two cylinders. I am now down to around 30mph. Pull into rest area, take everything off of bike and hide under an overhang of a building. Two guys on Harleys pull up and hide with me. They are cool. They were in there mid 40's and on their way to Sturgis. We shot the **** for awhile, and then I went out to start the bike up to dry things off given that the rain had let up. She was running rough, but running. The Harley guys asked me if I was going to be ok... I said sure, and they hit the road. It is now about 8pm... re-load the bike and head back east to a motel I saw at the last exit through the driving rain. Sticky Fingers runs rough but improves as I approach the exit. Get to motel (Marengo, IA Best Western). The rooms have doors to outside (all too rare these days!). I pull bike up to the outside door (under balcony), pull everything off of bike and into room. Unpack backpack and string everything across room to dry out (it was really raining hard!). Pour a strong drink, down it, and call it a night... about 9:45 pm. First day mileage approximately 410 miles.
Tuesday August 4th, 1998
Got up around 5:45am and hit the ground running... got coffee and went to work. Apparently it had rained overnight, so I dried the bike off an pulled the plugs. Cleaned the plugs and checked the gaps. Then I packed and showered. Re-installed the plugs and she fired right up... idled real smooth. Loaded bike and hit the road right around 7:00am. No rain clouds on the horizon but kind of cool. Left with less than 1/2 of a tank of gas... stopped around 30 miles down I-80 and filled tank. Back on road, but decided that I was hungry, so I stopped just before Des Moines at a McDonald's. Wasn't happy with my packing job so I adjusted a few things while I ate to give me a little more room to move and adjust riding positions. Major improvement! Blasted through Des Moines and stopped for gas 1/2 the way between there and Omaha. Then I picked up I-680 northeast of Omaha and shortly thereafter jumped on I-29 north. Stopped at the US 30 exit... decision time...
I decided to go with the originally planned route through Nebraska on US Routes.... I was sick of the Interstate. Oh well.. this decision led to more water... of the rain variety. The first rain hits about 20 miles into US 30, but it is not too bad... Move on to US 275 and a "big one" looks like it is going to hit...I jump off at a Texaco before I get slammed. But instead of watching the road I am looking at the sky and run right though 8 inches of water at 20 mph... both bike and rider are soaked! Rain hits (hard!) just as I am pulling under the Texaco canopy. Gas is fine so I let her idle for 10 minutes until rain dies down. Back on road...
I head north and then west on US 275 for awhile... then the sky starts to look real ugly again. I pull into Hooper, NE around 11:00am just as serious rain hits again. Decide to eat lunch after filling up under an Amoco canopy while this serious thunderstorm rages... shot the **** with a nice woman in her mid-40's while I ate and waited for the storm to pass. After about 30 minutes, the storm passes and I blast north until the next serious storm moves in... I just make it to West Point, NE as the the wind, rain and lighting kicks into high gear. This time it is a 40 minute stay under an Amoco canopy. Storm passes and I head north on US 275 and gas up in Wisner. Sky looks bad but no serious rain... although a constant hard drizzle becomes my ever present companion. Plus, the wind is REALLY picking up! Go through Norfolk and stop at Tilden to fill up. Wind is getting wicked! 30-40mph from my right... constantly pushing me left... then some trees and I'm "sucked" right. Very tiring! Just past Tilden a guy on a BMW comes up behind me. In a short area of 2 lanes, he pulls up on my right. He has a small camera hard mounted on his left handle bar. When I look over he snaps a picture, waves and pulls away.
Rain and wind really starting to give me a chill, so I stop in O'neill, gas up and decide to have my first "sit-down" meal of the trip. Little no-name diner... best french dip I've ever had. That and two cups of coffee and I'm ready to go again... still raining and still windy. As I'm riding the rain stops and the sky gets lighter. Stop for gas in Ainsworth and take off the rain pants. Then, as I'm pulling out of town I see a UFO... a bright golden orb in the sky... my god, it's the sun! Really cruising now... 80-85mph. At this point I am planning on going well into South Dakota before stopping for the night. This thought must have pissed off my bike because 30 miles south of Valentine, NE I am cruising about 80mph and I loose all power! I downshift to 4th, pop the clutch and she fires back up... WTF? Ok for 4-5 miles and it happens again. Had to pop the clutch twice to get her to fire this time. I cruise along going through all of the possibilities and finally figure it must be something electrical. It happens 2 more times and then I'm in Valentine, NE... about 7pm... screw it, I'm done for the day.
Get a room at the second motel I check. Unload bike, pour a drink and think it over. Must be road grime in the electrical and/or the ignition fuse came loose. It looks solid but who knows. I call Rick Jemison just to speak with another XS'er and he concurs... must be electrical. Says he'll post to the list to see if anyone else has other ideas. Little did I know it would become the "Dave's stranded in Valentine saga". Oh well, the posts were fun to read once I got to Dale's. Anyway, I go out to clean up the Bike and Rick Cheel calls, who also concurs that it is dirty electrical. Then Dale and the first of the XS Camp group call (12 Xs'ers already at camp!). Quick poll and they concur... must be electrical. Tell Dale my travel plans for the next day and he suggests I stay in Nebraska on US 20 and cut north in Chandron on US 385... better roads. We sign off agreeing to meet up at Mount Rushmore at 11am Wednesday... then I'll ride with the group from there.
I return to cleaning my bike and start talking with two guys from Scotland on Harleys . Nice guys so I offer them some of my single malt scotch... big mistake! Duh.. offering two Scots to help themselves to my Scotch... oh well, I can always get more. Anyway, they flew into Plano, Texas, bought these two bikes, rode to Sturgis, and now are on there way back. They are going to sell them on consignment in Plano and fly back to Edinburgh... wow.
Test fire bike a couple of times after cleaning and she idles great... we'll see how she does tomorrow. Time for bed. Approximately 435 miles today.
Wednesday August 5th, 1998
Left Valentine, NE just before 6am... Sticky Fingers fired right up and seemed to be running great. Obviously, I thought I had filled up the tank the night before... I didn't. Discovered this fact 30 miles out of Valentine (I am not a morning person!). Decision time... turn around or go on... what else... go on. Nothing was open... not much TO be open! Finally, when I am way on reserve in the middle of nowhere, I spot a Sinclair station with a car at the pumps. They are in the same boat I am! It's an older couple from Illinois, heading home. We wait, chatting, for about 20 minutes until the place opens at 7am. Gas up and hit the road. Still kind of chilly. Stop 30 miles down the road and put on a sweatshirt and gloves. Hit Meriman, fill up and eat a breakfast sandwich. Lots of Harleys around... getting close to Sturgis. Arrive in Chandron around 9:45am. After some iffy looking clouds, weather is drastically improving. After a short rest, gas, etc. I head north on US385 and into South Dakota. Turning into a real nice day. At the junction of SR79 I gas up and hear that the direct route to Mt. Rushmore (through Hot Springs) is all tore up... guy at station recommends taking SR79 to SR40 and through Keystone to get there. I take off lid (first time on trip) and strap it to the back of the bike and take off. Around 10 miles down the road, I hear something and look in my left mirror and see my helmet bouncing down the road... damn! Turn back to get it... it's tore up but not destroyed... re-attach it (hopefully better this time) and move on. Pass through Keystone... first town I've seen where bikes line the street. I don't stop because I am late to Rushmore (or so I thought!).
Arrive at Mt. Rushmore between 11:15 and 11:30am. Man it is packed! I am surrounded by 100's of Harleys... all stop and go into the pay parking area ($5).... I am thinking... please god, don't let me stall, dump or worse, hit one of these other bikes! I thought I was going to **** my pants! Finally make it to the parking area and try not to pass out from hyperventilating. Here is a picture of where I parked. I have a smoke and move into the Visitor's area looking for other XS'ers. None in sight. Have a coke, shoot some pics and hang out for an hour and a half. Finally decide to head out. Leaving turns out to be much less eventful (and stressful). Head up 385 towards Deadwood. What a great ride... lots of sweepers and a fair amount (but not too many) twisties. Stop several times, shoot some pics and generally enjoy the day, and the relaxed pace. Keep an eye out for XS'ers, but this is hard considering I easily passed 10,000 bikes between Mt. Rushmore and Deadwood. In Deadwood, I gas up and chill for awhile, watching all of the bikes go by. Head up US85 to I90 and west toward Gillette. It's around 3:00pm.
After passing Sundance, Wyoming I started to smell exhaust fumes, and it steadily got worse. I started to think I may be wrenching on Thursday. Just before 5:00pm I get to Dale and Lois'... I have arrived at XS Camp! Only Lois, one of Robby's friends and Joseph Haller (Texas) are there. Here's a picture of Joseph and our bikes right after I arrived (and had one of Lanny's beers open and half gone!). Turns out that the group got a late start, and were just getting close to Mt. Rushmore when I arrived in Gillette. No problem... Joseph is good company while he wrenches... seems his bike ran like **** while coming up from Texas, and he wanted to get it right before riding more. I set up my tent and continue to drink Lanny's beer. Lois tells us she is going to store, so I give her some cash for a case of beer (didn't want Lanny, who I've never met, mad at me when he arrived!). I am so damn glad to have made it that I keep drinking beer right up to the time the group rolls in around 10pm. By then I am pretty popped! We all say our hello's and go inside to eat sloppy joe's. Then everyone talked for awhile, but all are pretty tired. I finally hit the hay around 12:30am. Oh yeah... did about 420 miles today.
Thursday August 6th, 1998
I woke up at first light, around 5:45am. Only James Ho and myself are up... group starts rolling out between 6:30 and 7:30 am. Group is going to Sturgis today, but I have decided to stay put and fix the exhaust leak that was giving me so many problems as I rode into camp the afternoon before... I will regret that decision, as it will prevent me from riding with the "group", but I couldn't handle the fumes for another day. I rode with the "group" to breakfast around 8:00am... good fatboy breakfast at a local diner. Group heads out and I head back to Dale and Lois' place to begin my repairs. Robby and Rosa are supposed to stick around the house all day, so I know I'll have company and help. Lois is riding "up" with Dale today.
Lanny was still in his tent when we all left.... said he wasn't going today while we were talking the night before, so no one gave it a second thought. When I get back, his tent and bike are gone! No note... no nothing! What's up? (He later told me that he was "homesick"... ok... whatever...). He did take some ribbing the night before for taking a wrong turn on the Black Hills ride... maybe he just got pissed and moved on... we'll never know. Was looking forward to getting to know my Email "sparring partner"... oh well...
Start wrenching on bike... get exhaust off with little problem. Here is a picture of what that looked like. Exhaust gaskets are nonexistent... deteriorated to powder. Robby takes me into town to get replacements... good luck! Yammy dealer in town is mostly ATV's. Couldn't get a direct match, so I buy the closest I could find, which were too big (at $6.50 each!!!). After checking a few other places, get back to camp and start to trim gaskets to fit. Had to break them into 2 or 3 pieces to get them to fit. Not perfect, but hope it will improve the situation. Re-install the exhaust and fire her up....seems to be doing ok. At this point Ken and Sheila Talbot show up, looking somewhat road weary. We chat for awhile, and they head off for food and their motel room. I take a quick test ride and the bike seems ok... smell WD40 burning off of the head more than anything else. Shower and thank Robby and Rosa for their help and cruise around Gillette to test her out... she seems ok. Hit bank machine, drug store (needed sunblock) and got some lunch... it is now 3:30 pm... too late to catch the group in Sturgis. Decide (based on discussion with Robby) to take the one hour ride to Buffalo, Wyoming... which is west of Gillette on I-90. Nice, very deserted ride. Smell some exhaust fumes, but not too bad. Looks like I have improved, but not eliminated, my problem. On the way, I stop and help out a Honda rider who ran out of gas.... he siphons out about 1/2 of what I've got and we both move on to the next gas (1st Buffalo exit). I hang out in Buffalo for a couple of hours. Bought a replacement set of rain pants at a cool sporting goods place Robby suggested... talk with some kids on their way home from fishing on Main Street, and the stop at the "Cowboy Bar" for a couple of beers before heading out of town. Head back to Gillette around 7:00pm... very nice ride! Take my time and get back to camp around 8:30pm. Group rolls in just a few minutes later... before 9:00pm. Everyone is likewise puzzled by Lanny's disappearance. Joseph and a few others went to Deadwood from Sturgis to eat, so they were not with the arriving group. The group at camp order pizza. Most of the group start heading off to bed around 11:00pm, or so. Dale and I stay up talking and drinking until 1:30am or so... I'll regret this! Mine tour and Devil's Tower tomorrow!
Friday August 7th, 1998
Sometime around 7:00am Robby calls into my tent asking me if I still wanted to go on the mine tour. I groan a "yes" and seriously consider converting to another religion... any religion... that bans consumption of alcoholic beverages... I finally crawl out of the tent and about half the group is up. After awhile it is determined that the mine tour ain't going to happen because advanced reservations were not made, so group is going to focus on Devil's Tower and other points of interest in Wyoming. During another fatboy breakfast down the street, I decide not to go to Devil's Tower. Although this may give others in the group the impression that I am un-sociable, the fact is that I have been to Devil's Tower 3 times in my life, and I have never been to Sturgis on a bike... and this is my last full day at camp. I feel bad, but figure I would feel worse later if I missed the opportunity to ride down Main Street in Sturgis on the machine that had carried me so far. Turns out Joseph Haller is going back to Sturgis to do some demo rides (he has been to Devil's tower before as well). He and I seemed to get along pretty well so I asked if I could ride along with him, and he says sure. Group heads out from breakfast and I ride back to camp to hook up with Joseph and we head out around 9:30am or so.
Joseph has a low front tire and forks and lost his hand pump on the way to camp, so we first stop at a bike shop in Gillette and he picks up a good (and expensive) pump. We then go in search of air. When we finally find one, a woman in a mini-van is using it and it dies before she is done. We screw around with it for awhile and Joseph decides to try the station across the street. As he pulls away, the lady yells to me that it is working again. I catch Joseph across the street (no air) and tell him to go back across the street. His comment..." Do you ever get the feeling if you went into the funeral business, people would stop dying?" That was the first of many one-liner's for the day. We finally hit the highway, with Joseph in the lead... he rides fast but that is ok with me. He claims to be doing around 75mph (he has a Special), but my speedo is registering 83mph... seems he had similar results riding next to Lanny (also with a Standard like me)... that's a pretty big difference! Somewhere between Gillette and Sundance, Joseph took this picture of me while we were riding. A gas stop or two and we arrive in Sturgis around lunch time.
As you would expect, bikes were everywhere! I was grinning from ear to ear. I was in Sturgis in 1982, while I was completing my geology field camp. I was staying in Spearfish for 6 weeks, and got to go over to Sturgis one day during Rally Week... but that was in a cage and I didn't own a bike then... what a difference! Anyway, we pull into the demo area, and Joseph and I agree to meet on Main street in a few hours... he is going to do some demo rides and I just wanted to get on Main Street. We part ways and I head for "the strip". Wow... it is even bigger than I remembered! I cruise up and down the strip for awhile, just enjoying the scene, and finally find a spot to park near the the end of the strip... not too far from one of the two photography towers that are located at each end. Yeah, I am a tourist, so I pay the three bucks and climb the the tower to take some pics. Here is a picture of the Sturgis Main Street the day I was there... awesome! I then decide to grab a beer and cool off in an air conditioned environment for a little while... then off to do what a devout rabid heterosexual like myself must do at Sturgis... take pictures of good looking women on bikes! No short supply of subjects, either! What can I say... I like girls with biceps on bikes and I took picture , after picture , after picture , after picture ... oh well, you get the idea... Then a wedding procession goes by, and I got this picture of one of the bride's maids. Found out later that Joseph was at the reception and even got some wedding cake! I then proceeded to look for cool bikes to capture on film... my personal favorite is exceptional "rat bikes". What surprises me is how few there are... damn few. I saw only a handful the whole day! Here is a picture of my personal favorite... yes, those are saddle stirrups where most riders put highway pegs!
Joseph and I meet up under one of the photography towers in the mid afternoon. While watching the bikes go by, this great looking woman in a thong and chaps walks up to the ticket window to buy a ticket to climb up the tower (picture)... and here I am at the bottom of the ladder! I turn to Joseph and say, "I can't believe I am this lucky". By now, guys with camera's are running towards us from all directions, but I have the prime spot! This is my favorite picture (shot quite a few!)... my wife, after seeing my photographs, later said... "Rally Week has very little to do with bikes, does it?" How could she think such a thing?
After awhile, we decide to head to Deadwood to eat at a buffet in a Casino, and as we are pulling out of Main street, I rear-end Joseph... lucky for me all of the Harley guys were watching girls in thongs. His comment.... "you have just established your legacy". It is true. We get to Deadwood right at dusk, put our name on the waiting list, and played the slots and had a couple of beers. I quickly lose $20 or $25 bucks, and give up. Joseph put us on the buffet waiting list with the name "Donner", so when we heard them call "Donner, party of two", we knew it was time to eat. What a buffet! Prime rib, crab legs... you name it. We were both starving, and the amount we consumed showed that fact. And under $10 to boot! Man I was full, but it was great! By this time, it is close to 9:00pm and we realize we are going to miss the virtual toast at camp... bummer. Oh well, all I can say is that I was having a great day!
We head out of Deadwood with Joseph in the lead. Because I had told him earlier that I tend to ride slower at night, he gave me the lead once we got on I-90 west. We gassed up in Sundance, WY right about 10:30pm... time for the XS Camp virtual toast. So, in keeping with the camp spirit, Joseph produces a pint of Cutty Sark from one of his side bags and we anonymously join the toast! While he was putting the scotch away, he commented about how low my luggage rack looked. I looked it over and it was too low... in fact it was broken! Damn... I lashed things together the best I could (here's a picture of how it looked in the morning)... while doing this however, two cars pulled up (the station was closed but had 24 hour pumps), looked at Joseph and I and pulled away without getting fuel. Did we look that bad? Never would have figured a father of two from the suburbs of Indianapolis would have presented such a scary picture! Anyway, around 10 minutes later we are back on the highway. We are making good time, and not near as cold as I was expecting.
We arrive at camp some time after 11:15, and everyone is out by the bon-fire... including Rick Jemison, my fellow Indianapolis XS'er. But wait a minute... where is his bike? Turns out that when Rick was ready to go, Indianapolis, and most of the mid-west, was experiencing major rain. So he did what any man desperate for a vacation would do....he threw everything from his bike into the trunk of his car and hit the road! I was just glad he made it! Everyone was in great spirits.... some more than others! Wait a minute... why is Bob Canel on his back on the picnic table? When I go inside to get a drink, I found out why.... seems there is this empty bottle of Absolute Citron in the kitchen! He and Dale killed it! When I get back outside, I found out I won the award for the most problems getting to camp! My prize? A plastic reindeer driving a christmas tree (picture )... presented as a source of alternative transportation should my bike "crap out" on the way home... I accepted the award with pride... after all, I DID make it to camp!
Shortly after all of this, Bob Canel gets carried back to his motel room, and the majority of the group starts heading off to bed. Dale, Rick, Joseph and I (did I forget somebody?) are the last hold outs, and are treated to a presentation of Dale's gun collection... and a very cool collection indeed! Finally, it is just Dale and I, drinking and talking to the wee hours, once again (I think I got to be closer to 3:00am this time!). I finally stumble into my tent and it's lights out... what a great day!
Saturday August 8th, 1998
This morning I wake up speaking in tongues! It's all Dale's fault! I think it was about 9:00am when I got up, but I really can't remember. I start out (after coffee) by trying to figure out how I am going to configure my bike for the trip home (picture ). Part of this is easy.... Rick's misfortune is my luck! Because he drove to camp, he agreed to carry alot of my stuff back to Indy with him (thanks Rick!). I know for sure I am going without my luggage rack! As I am packing, some of the group (who didn't stay up with Dale!) begin to leave. First to go is John and Linda Higgins ((picture), followed shortly by Sid Hansen and Kathy O'Connor ((picture). Rick Jemison ((picture) leaves shortly after that in his cage to tour the Custer Battlefield. I finally decide to make the trip home with just my pelican case "trunks" (this idea will not last long) and my tank bag. Mike Cummings ((picture ) and Bob Canel then show up (maybe with some others, I am really in a fog at this point!), and we talk while I am packing up. I finally get everything packed up and hit the shower... and am ready to leave. Just before I go, another wave of XS'ers arrive for camp! It is Bob & Marvina Garcia, Ernie Basener & Cousin (I was hung over so I forgot names) and I think Jonathan Walther, all from South Dakota! (sorry if I forgot or missed anyone else... I am bad with names!) I feel bad because we only visit for a short while... but it is close to 11:00am, and I need to make some miles today. So, I say my good-bye's and hit the road ((picture ).... somebody took this other (picture of me when I left....oops, guess I forgot to put my kickstand down!
About a mile down the road, I realized that the pelican case strapped to my seat thing was not going to work. So, I went to Wall Mart and got a good sized soft sided bag, some tie down straps and headed to Mail Boxes, Etc. After transferring everything from the pelican cases to the soft sided bag, I went into the mailing shop and shipped the pelican cases back home. After this it is gasoline, some lunch at McDonald's and showtime! It is now after 12:00pm.
I hit I-90 and start screaming down the road. It is hot as hell, and I am trying to create some wind! I commit to myself no less than 90 miles between stops (short, by Iron Butt standards!), and stop for gas in Spearfish. Man, it is hot, but there are clouds on the horizon. Very short stop and I am back on the road. Blow by the Sturgis exit and all of the sudden the eastbound traffic (mostly bikes) is heavier... only a couple of days left in the Rally so people are heading home. As I am approaching and going through Rapid City, the dark clouds get worse and develop into some really wicked storms all around me. I am lucky though, as the only rain I experience is some heavy sprinkles while in the middle of Rapid City. The lightening is intense all around me though, but I press on. I have decided to shoot for Wall (NOT Wall Drug!) as the next gas stop, and barely make it. I am weaving the bike back and forth to slosh the remaining gas in the tank around as I am pulling up to the gas station. Gas up, call my wife, grab a snack and hit the road.... sky is clearing up. It is now mid afternoon. I go for about 95 miles and hit Murdo for gas... staring to get late in the afternoon and I am wondering about the availability of motel rooms down the road. Decide to shoot for Chamberlain and try my luck there.
I pull off at Chamberlain just before dusk, gas up and begin to check the motels... everyone is full! One more to try before I get back on the highway. It is a Comfort Inn. At the lobby, the clerk tells me all the room are taken, bit that the owner was out back right that moment changing the sheets in his RV in preparation to renting it for the night. He is a nice guy and offers it to me (no water) for $50. Hell, all of the motel rooms in town were over $80! No water, but he gives me access to a bathroom and a sink in the motel, and the promise of a shower if I wait until after 7:00am to leave. I pay him, pass on the shower (I plan on being on the road by 5:30am) and head inside the motel to wash off. He points me off in the direction of a local steak joint and I head to dinner. Great steak place! Have a couple of drinks at the bar, eat a GREAT sirloin, cruise around town for awhile and head back to "my" RV. In bed by around 9:00pm. Early start tomorrow! Did about 348 miles today, which ain't bad considering my late start.
Sunday August 9th, 1998
The report for this date will be short for a couple of reasons.... first of all, I got started early (around 5:30am) and had nothing other in mind than making miles... get home tonight? Second, I want to get this trip report done, and there was not much that occurred on this day other than the hardest, and longest riding of my life. This was my test of endurance, and I almost made my goal, which was home. I did ok until mid-afternoon, which found me in Iowa (damn, but South Dakota is one big State!) but I was now just getting through Des Moines. By 3:00pm I was starting to fade... and man was it hot! My breaks became more frequent and more lengthy. I attempted, once past Des Moines, for a brief stint in the Iron Butt Motel, but it was too hot and I was too keyed up... so I went on. Sometimes I only made it 60 or 70 miles before I had to stop. Finally, around 6:30pm or so, I entered Illinois... my next to last State! Once I was was on I-74... I took an extended break, but still could not sleep. I jumped back on the highway at dusk, and immediately knew it was no joy.... I wasn't going to make it home tonight. I made it to Peoria and that was it... I was done. Could I have made it?... well, probably... but it wasn't worth the risk. Anyway, with the number of stops I would have had to make, I wouldn't have arrived home until after midnight. I could see no point in continuing, so I didn't.
On the east side of Peoria, I got a room in the seediest Knights Inn I have ever seen... but I didn't care. It was dark, I was hungry and very tired. I got a sandwich at a convenience store across the street, called my wife (who concurred with my decision), calculated my miles for the day, and died. 742 miles today... far beyond my previous personal best.
Monday August 10th, 1998
Homecoming day. I sleep through the 6am wake-up call and alarm, and don't awake until 8:30am. No big deal. I shower, pack and am on the road by 9:00am. My spirits are high, because I now know that I am within reach of one of the most satisfying personal accomplishments of my life. I am almost home! Which means all of the months (years!) of wrenching and other preparations are about to be fulfilled with the successful completion of my trip. I am literally grinning ear to ear as I pass the Indiana line! I slow down now and cruise the limit (first time on the whole trip!)... trying to savor the feeling, which is not hard... I have not felt so good, so happy, in a very long time. I express these sentiments to my machine, out loud, as I cruise towards home. To some, this may sound crazy, but my machine, Sticky Fingers, and I forged a bond on this trip that I can't describe, and in fact, can only be understood by those who have done something like this. This machine, which I acquired in not the best of shape, allowed me to work on her and learn while I was doing it... to, in effect, bring her back to life. Then she carried me on this trip, the object, the goal of all of that work, with only the most minor of complaints, which I believe were intended to keep me respectful and honest.... and now we were almost home. My friend has carried me the whole way...
I arrived home around lunch time. My wife was at work and my boy at daycare. I opened a beer and toasted my bike. I sat on the driveway for nearly an hour, leaning against Sticky Fingers... as happy as I could ever remember being, and all I could think or say was..."thanks". Here is a (picture of my wonderful machine, shortly after our arrival.
Epilogue
XS Camp was a dream come true for me. Unlike many of you, I have never, in my life, done anything like this. I have only been riding for a short time, and this trip really showed me what riding, and the bond between man and machine, was really all about.
I first of all want to thank the host's of XS Camp '98 for their wonderful hospitality and for opening their home to us. Dale, Lois, Robby and Rosa Hicks... thank you! Also, for those of you raising children as I am, I want to point out how proud Dale and Lois should be of Rosa and Robby. Finer young adults I have never met... and I really mean that.
Secondly, to all of those who attended camp (and I don't dare try to individually name you all!), it was truly my honor to meet you.... how rare it must be for such a fine group of people to assemble based solely on our love for motorcycles and the relatively anonymous interchange on the list... but it did indeed happen!
Finally.. "the list".... there is no way in hell that any of the preceding pages would have been written if not for the technical and "moral" support I have received from the "best damn motorcycle related list on the 'net"... I thank you all!
Fight the wind... be safe... and may love fill your hearts... God bless.
Ride Report
by Dave Hogue
To say there were times when I thought this would never happen is an understatement!
Monday August 3rd, 1998
Was pretty well packed the night before. However, having never done anything like this, you should have seen how many iterations my "road configuration" went through! Still thought I was too heavy when I left, and the outbound trip proved me right.
Left my house around 8:15am after saying good bye to my wife and two kids (my wife had that half amused/half concerned look in her eye, as if to say, "I can't believe you are really doing this, but hey, you're a big boy..."). To her benefit, she never once made me feel guilty about wanting to do this... she is a good woman, and I love her for it.
After stopping at the bank for funds and a few other minor stops, I jumped on I-465 west to I-74 west. My first stop was in Crawfordsville, Indiana for gas. Short stop and then back on I-74... averaging 75 to 80 mph. Just past Champaign/Urbana, Illinois, I stopped for gas again. Got off of bike, and the whole seat (including my backpack and trunk) got off with me! Uh oh... my predictions on weight came true earlier than I thought! Filled up the tank and moved out of the way to repair. Here's a picture of what that looked like....
First off, had to pound the steel seat mount on bike (shaped like a hook) back into some semblance of true. Then I removed the seat mount from the bottom of the seat, went across the street to an Amoco with a shop and asked top "borrow" a vice to see if I could get that true. Got it close. While re-assembling the whole mess, a guy driving a tri-axle stops and asks me if I need any help... nice guy. In the meantime, four guys on Harley's go by, give me a glance and see that my bike is not a Harley, and proceed on without a word. I'm sorry, but I really feel it is the fact that we ride that is important... not what we ride... I call them a few choice names under my breath and proceed with the re-assembly, which includes moving the serious (but reasonable?) amount of tools in my trunk to my tank bag. The only other "damage" was a bent but still operating left rear turn signal.... oh well, I'll fix that when I get home. One hour gone... back on I-74 west.
Quick stop for gas again just pat Moline... all looks good. Back on road... butt is getting sore! When I-74 turns north towards Davenport, I hit more construction (a theme for my first day!). I fall in behind a van trailering a bike (figured it must be a Harley!). When the construction ends, I pull up past him and look at the bike... it is an XS!!!! I pull up to the van and give him a thumbs up! I don't think he got it. Wondered for awhile if he was going to XS Camp (he wasn't). I catch I-80 and he takes the by-pass...never see him again. Stop for gas right after I get on I-80... getting around 34.5 mpg... not too bad considering my weight and speed. Will turn out to be the best mileage of the trip.
Just past Iowa City, Iowa, I stop for gas and check oil... about 1 quart low. Damn rings...Butt is really getting sore! Also, the sky is starting to get dark... I have experienced no rain so far. I jump back on I-80, and jump back off at the next exit... time for rain gear. Jump back on and rain is not to bad at first... then WHAM! I can't see 20 feet in front of my face! I pass an exit, hoping for a bridge, and then realize that this is not going to work! Rest area ahead, which is good news considering that the rain has just caused me to lose two cylinders. I am now down to around 30mph. Pull into rest area, take everything off of bike and hide under an overhang of a building. Two guys on Harleys pull up and hide with me. They are cool. They were in there mid 40's and on their way to Sturgis. We shot the **** for awhile, and then I went out to start the bike up to dry things off given that the rain had let up. She was running rough, but running. The Harley guys asked me if I was going to be ok... I said sure, and they hit the road. It is now about 8pm... re-load the bike and head back east to a motel I saw at the last exit through the driving rain. Sticky Fingers runs rough but improves as I approach the exit. Get to motel (Marengo, IA Best Western). The rooms have doors to outside (all too rare these days!). I pull bike up to the outside door (under balcony), pull everything off of bike and into room. Unpack backpack and string everything across room to dry out (it was really raining hard!). Pour a strong drink, down it, and call it a night... about 9:45 pm. First day mileage approximately 410 miles.
Tuesday August 4th, 1998
Got up around 5:45am and hit the ground running... got coffee and went to work. Apparently it had rained overnight, so I dried the bike off an pulled the plugs. Cleaned the plugs and checked the gaps. Then I packed and showered. Re-installed the plugs and she fired right up... idled real smooth. Loaded bike and hit the road right around 7:00am. No rain clouds on the horizon but kind of cool. Left with less than 1/2 of a tank of gas... stopped around 30 miles down I-80 and filled tank. Back on road, but decided that I was hungry, so I stopped just before Des Moines at a McDonald's. Wasn't happy with my packing job so I adjusted a few things while I ate to give me a little more room to move and adjust riding positions. Major improvement! Blasted through Des Moines and stopped for gas 1/2 the way between there and Omaha. Then I picked up I-680 northeast of Omaha and shortly thereafter jumped on I-29 north. Stopped at the US 30 exit... decision time...
I decided to go with the originally planned route through Nebraska on US Routes.... I was sick of the Interstate. Oh well.. this decision led to more water... of the rain variety. The first rain hits about 20 miles into US 30, but it is not too bad... Move on to US 275 and a "big one" looks like it is going to hit...I jump off at a Texaco before I get slammed. But instead of watching the road I am looking at the sky and run right though 8 inches of water at 20 mph... both bike and rider are soaked! Rain hits (hard!) just as I am pulling under the Texaco canopy. Gas is fine so I let her idle for 10 minutes until rain dies down. Back on road...
I head north and then west on US 275 for awhile... then the sky starts to look real ugly again. I pull into Hooper, NE around 11:00am just as serious rain hits again. Decide to eat lunch after filling up under an Amoco canopy while this serious thunderstorm rages... shot the **** with a nice woman in her mid-40's while I ate and waited for the storm to pass. After about 30 minutes, the storm passes and I blast north until the next serious storm moves in... I just make it to West Point, NE as the the wind, rain and lighting kicks into high gear. This time it is a 40 minute stay under an Amoco canopy. Storm passes and I head north on US 275 and gas up in Wisner. Sky looks bad but no serious rain... although a constant hard drizzle becomes my ever present companion. Plus, the wind is REALLY picking up! Go through Norfolk and stop at Tilden to fill up. Wind is getting wicked! 30-40mph from my right... constantly pushing me left... then some trees and I'm "sucked" right. Very tiring! Just past Tilden a guy on a BMW comes up behind me. In a short area of 2 lanes, he pulls up on my right. He has a small camera hard mounted on his left handle bar. When I look over he snaps a picture, waves and pulls away.
Rain and wind really starting to give me a chill, so I stop in O'neill, gas up and decide to have my first "sit-down" meal of the trip. Little no-name diner... best french dip I've ever had. That and two cups of coffee and I'm ready to go again... still raining and still windy. As I'm riding the rain stops and the sky gets lighter. Stop for gas in Ainsworth and take off the rain pants. Then, as I'm pulling out of town I see a UFO... a bright golden orb in the sky... my god, it's the sun! Really cruising now... 80-85mph. At this point I am planning on going well into South Dakota before stopping for the night. This thought must have pissed off my bike because 30 miles south of Valentine, NE I am cruising about 80mph and I loose all power! I downshift to 4th, pop the clutch and she fires back up... WTF? Ok for 4-5 miles and it happens again. Had to pop the clutch twice to get her to fire this time. I cruise along going through all of the possibilities and finally figure it must be something electrical. It happens 2 more times and then I'm in Valentine, NE... about 7pm... screw it, I'm done for the day.
Get a room at the second motel I check. Unload bike, pour a drink and think it over. Must be road grime in the electrical and/or the ignition fuse came loose. It looks solid but who knows. I call Rick Jemison just to speak with another XS'er and he concurs... must be electrical. Says he'll post to the list to see if anyone else has other ideas. Little did I know it would become the "Dave's stranded in Valentine saga". Oh well, the posts were fun to read once I got to Dale's. Anyway, I go out to clean up the Bike and Rick Cheel calls, who also concurs that it is dirty electrical. Then Dale and the first of the XS Camp group call (12 Xs'ers already at camp!). Quick poll and they concur... must be electrical. Tell Dale my travel plans for the next day and he suggests I stay in Nebraska on US 20 and cut north in Chandron on US 385... better roads. We sign off agreeing to meet up at Mount Rushmore at 11am Wednesday... then I'll ride with the group from there.
I return to cleaning my bike and start talking with two guys from Scotland on Harleys . Nice guys so I offer them some of my single malt scotch... big mistake! Duh.. offering two Scots to help themselves to my Scotch... oh well, I can always get more. Anyway, they flew into Plano, Texas, bought these two bikes, rode to Sturgis, and now are on there way back. They are going to sell them on consignment in Plano and fly back to Edinburgh... wow.
Test fire bike a couple of times after cleaning and she idles great... we'll see how she does tomorrow. Time for bed. Approximately 435 miles today.
Wednesday August 5th, 1998
Left Valentine, NE just before 6am... Sticky Fingers fired right up and seemed to be running great. Obviously, I thought I had filled up the tank the night before... I didn't. Discovered this fact 30 miles out of Valentine (I am not a morning person!). Decision time... turn around or go on... what else... go on. Nothing was open... not much TO be open! Finally, when I am way on reserve in the middle of nowhere, I spot a Sinclair station with a car at the pumps. They are in the same boat I am! It's an older couple from Illinois, heading home. We wait, chatting, for about 20 minutes until the place opens at 7am. Gas up and hit the road. Still kind of chilly. Stop 30 miles down the road and put on a sweatshirt and gloves. Hit Meriman, fill up and eat a breakfast sandwich. Lots of Harleys around... getting close to Sturgis. Arrive in Chandron around 9:45am. After some iffy looking clouds, weather is drastically improving. After a short rest, gas, etc. I head north on US385 and into South Dakota. Turning into a real nice day. At the junction of SR79 I gas up and hear that the direct route to Mt. Rushmore (through Hot Springs) is all tore up... guy at station recommends taking SR79 to SR40 and through Keystone to get there. I take off lid (first time on trip) and strap it to the back of the bike and take off. Around 10 miles down the road, I hear something and look in my left mirror and see my helmet bouncing down the road... damn! Turn back to get it... it's tore up but not destroyed... re-attach it (hopefully better this time) and move on. Pass through Keystone... first town I've seen where bikes line the street. I don't stop because I am late to Rushmore (or so I thought!).
Arrive at Mt. Rushmore between 11:15 and 11:30am. Man it is packed! I am surrounded by 100's of Harleys... all stop and go into the pay parking area ($5).... I am thinking... please god, don't let me stall, dump or worse, hit one of these other bikes! I thought I was going to **** my pants! Finally make it to the parking area and try not to pass out from hyperventilating. Here is a picture of where I parked. I have a smoke and move into the Visitor's area looking for other XS'ers. None in sight. Have a coke, shoot some pics and hang out for an hour and a half. Finally decide to head out. Leaving turns out to be much less eventful (and stressful). Head up 385 towards Deadwood. What a great ride... lots of sweepers and a fair amount (but not too many) twisties. Stop several times, shoot some pics and generally enjoy the day, and the relaxed pace. Keep an eye out for XS'ers, but this is hard considering I easily passed 10,000 bikes between Mt. Rushmore and Deadwood. In Deadwood, I gas up and chill for awhile, watching all of the bikes go by. Head up US85 to I90 and west toward Gillette. It's around 3:00pm.
After passing Sundance, Wyoming I started to smell exhaust fumes, and it steadily got worse. I started to think I may be wrenching on Thursday. Just before 5:00pm I get to Dale and Lois'... I have arrived at XS Camp! Only Lois, one of Robby's friends and Joseph Haller (Texas) are there. Here's a picture of Joseph and our bikes right after I arrived (and had one of Lanny's beers open and half gone!). Turns out that the group got a late start, and were just getting close to Mt. Rushmore when I arrived in Gillette. No problem... Joseph is good company while he wrenches... seems his bike ran like **** while coming up from Texas, and he wanted to get it right before riding more. I set up my tent and continue to drink Lanny's beer. Lois tells us she is going to store, so I give her some cash for a case of beer (didn't want Lanny, who I've never met, mad at me when he arrived!). I am so damn glad to have made it that I keep drinking beer right up to the time the group rolls in around 10pm. By then I am pretty popped! We all say our hello's and go inside to eat sloppy joe's. Then everyone talked for awhile, but all are pretty tired. I finally hit the hay around 12:30am. Oh yeah... did about 420 miles today.
Thursday August 6th, 1998
I woke up at first light, around 5:45am. Only James Ho and myself are up... group starts rolling out between 6:30 and 7:30 am. Group is going to Sturgis today, but I have decided to stay put and fix the exhaust leak that was giving me so many problems as I rode into camp the afternoon before... I will regret that decision, as it will prevent me from riding with the "group", but I couldn't handle the fumes for another day. I rode with the "group" to breakfast around 8:00am... good fatboy breakfast at a local diner. Group heads out and I head back to Dale and Lois' place to begin my repairs. Robby and Rosa are supposed to stick around the house all day, so I know I'll have company and help. Lois is riding "up" with Dale today.
Lanny was still in his tent when we all left.... said he wasn't going today while we were talking the night before, so no one gave it a second thought. When I get back, his tent and bike are gone! No note... no nothing! What's up? (He later told me that he was "homesick"... ok... whatever...). He did take some ribbing the night before for taking a wrong turn on the Black Hills ride... maybe he just got pissed and moved on... we'll never know. Was looking forward to getting to know my Email "sparring partner"... oh well...
Start wrenching on bike... get exhaust off with little problem. Here is a picture of what that looked like. Exhaust gaskets are nonexistent... deteriorated to powder. Robby takes me into town to get replacements... good luck! Yammy dealer in town is mostly ATV's. Couldn't get a direct match, so I buy the closest I could find, which were too big (at $6.50 each!!!). After checking a few other places, get back to camp and start to trim gaskets to fit. Had to break them into 2 or 3 pieces to get them to fit. Not perfect, but hope it will improve the situation. Re-install the exhaust and fire her up....seems to be doing ok. At this point Ken and Sheila Talbot show up, looking somewhat road weary. We chat for awhile, and they head off for food and their motel room. I take a quick test ride and the bike seems ok... smell WD40 burning off of the head more than anything else. Shower and thank Robby and Rosa for their help and cruise around Gillette to test her out... she seems ok. Hit bank machine, drug store (needed sunblock) and got some lunch... it is now 3:30 pm... too late to catch the group in Sturgis. Decide (based on discussion with Robby) to take the one hour ride to Buffalo, Wyoming... which is west of Gillette on I-90. Nice, very deserted ride. Smell some exhaust fumes, but not too bad. Looks like I have improved, but not eliminated, my problem. On the way, I stop and help out a Honda rider who ran out of gas.... he siphons out about 1/2 of what I've got and we both move on to the next gas (1st Buffalo exit). I hang out in Buffalo for a couple of hours. Bought a replacement set of rain pants at a cool sporting goods place Robby suggested... talk with some kids on their way home from fishing on Main Street, and the stop at the "Cowboy Bar" for a couple of beers before heading out of town. Head back to Gillette around 7:00pm... very nice ride! Take my time and get back to camp around 8:30pm. Group rolls in just a few minutes later... before 9:00pm. Everyone is likewise puzzled by Lanny's disappearance. Joseph and a few others went to Deadwood from Sturgis to eat, so they were not with the arriving group. The group at camp order pizza. Most of the group start heading off to bed around 11:00pm, or so. Dale and I stay up talking and drinking until 1:30am or so... I'll regret this! Mine tour and Devil's Tower tomorrow!
Friday August 7th, 1998
Sometime around 7:00am Robby calls into my tent asking me if I still wanted to go on the mine tour. I groan a "yes" and seriously consider converting to another religion... any religion... that bans consumption of alcoholic beverages... I finally crawl out of the tent and about half the group is up. After awhile it is determined that the mine tour ain't going to happen because advanced reservations were not made, so group is going to focus on Devil's Tower and other points of interest in Wyoming. During another fatboy breakfast down the street, I decide not to go to Devil's Tower. Although this may give others in the group the impression that I am un-sociable, the fact is that I have been to Devil's Tower 3 times in my life, and I have never been to Sturgis on a bike... and this is my last full day at camp. I feel bad, but figure I would feel worse later if I missed the opportunity to ride down Main Street in Sturgis on the machine that had carried me so far. Turns out Joseph Haller is going back to Sturgis to do some demo rides (he has been to Devil's tower before as well). He and I seemed to get along pretty well so I asked if I could ride along with him, and he says sure. Group heads out from breakfast and I ride back to camp to hook up with Joseph and we head out around 9:30am or so.
Joseph has a low front tire and forks and lost his hand pump on the way to camp, so we first stop at a bike shop in Gillette and he picks up a good (and expensive) pump. We then go in search of air. When we finally find one, a woman in a mini-van is using it and it dies before she is done. We screw around with it for awhile and Joseph decides to try the station across the street. As he pulls away, the lady yells to me that it is working again. I catch Joseph across the street (no air) and tell him to go back across the street. His comment..." Do you ever get the feeling if you went into the funeral business, people would stop dying?" That was the first of many one-liner's for the day. We finally hit the highway, with Joseph in the lead... he rides fast but that is ok with me. He claims to be doing around 75mph (he has a Special), but my speedo is registering 83mph... seems he had similar results riding next to Lanny (also with a Standard like me)... that's a pretty big difference! Somewhere between Gillette and Sundance, Joseph took this picture of me while we were riding. A gas stop or two and we arrive in Sturgis around lunch time.
As you would expect, bikes were everywhere! I was grinning from ear to ear. I was in Sturgis in 1982, while I was completing my geology field camp. I was staying in Spearfish for 6 weeks, and got to go over to Sturgis one day during Rally Week... but that was in a cage and I didn't own a bike then... what a difference! Anyway, we pull into the demo area, and Joseph and I agree to meet on Main street in a few hours... he is going to do some demo rides and I just wanted to get on Main Street. We part ways and I head for "the strip". Wow... it is even bigger than I remembered! I cruise up and down the strip for awhile, just enjoying the scene, and finally find a spot to park near the the end of the strip... not too far from one of the two photography towers that are located at each end. Yeah, I am a tourist, so I pay the three bucks and climb the the tower to take some pics. Here is a picture of the Sturgis Main Street the day I was there... awesome! I then decide to grab a beer and cool off in an air conditioned environment for a little while... then off to do what a devout rabid heterosexual like myself must do at Sturgis... take pictures of good looking women on bikes! No short supply of subjects, either! What can I say... I like girls with biceps on bikes and I took picture , after picture , after picture , after picture ... oh well, you get the idea... Then a wedding procession goes by, and I got this picture of one of the bride's maids. Found out later that Joseph was at the reception and even got some wedding cake! I then proceeded to look for cool bikes to capture on film... my personal favorite is exceptional "rat bikes". What surprises me is how few there are... damn few. I saw only a handful the whole day! Here is a picture of my personal favorite... yes, those are saddle stirrups where most riders put highway pegs!
Joseph and I meet up under one of the photography towers in the mid afternoon. While watching the bikes go by, this great looking woman in a thong and chaps walks up to the ticket window to buy a ticket to climb up the tower (picture)... and here I am at the bottom of the ladder! I turn to Joseph and say, "I can't believe I am this lucky". By now, guys with camera's are running towards us from all directions, but I have the prime spot! This is my favorite picture (shot quite a few!)... my wife, after seeing my photographs, later said... "Rally Week has very little to do with bikes, does it?" How could she think such a thing?
After awhile, we decide to head to Deadwood to eat at a buffet in a Casino, and as we are pulling out of Main street, I rear-end Joseph... lucky for me all of the Harley guys were watching girls in thongs. His comment.... "you have just established your legacy". It is true. We get to Deadwood right at dusk, put our name on the waiting list, and played the slots and had a couple of beers. I quickly lose $20 or $25 bucks, and give up. Joseph put us on the buffet waiting list with the name "Donner", so when we heard them call "Donner, party of two", we knew it was time to eat. What a buffet! Prime rib, crab legs... you name it. We were both starving, and the amount we consumed showed that fact. And under $10 to boot! Man I was full, but it was great! By this time, it is close to 9:00pm and we realize we are going to miss the virtual toast at camp... bummer. Oh well, all I can say is that I was having a great day!
We head out of Deadwood with Joseph in the lead. Because I had told him earlier that I tend to ride slower at night, he gave me the lead once we got on I-90 west. We gassed up in Sundance, WY right about 10:30pm... time for the XS Camp virtual toast. So, in keeping with the camp spirit, Joseph produces a pint of Cutty Sark from one of his side bags and we anonymously join the toast! While he was putting the scotch away, he commented about how low my luggage rack looked. I looked it over and it was too low... in fact it was broken! Damn... I lashed things together the best I could (here's a picture of how it looked in the morning)... while doing this however, two cars pulled up (the station was closed but had 24 hour pumps), looked at Joseph and I and pulled away without getting fuel. Did we look that bad? Never would have figured a father of two from the suburbs of Indianapolis would have presented such a scary picture! Anyway, around 10 minutes later we are back on the highway. We are making good time, and not near as cold as I was expecting.
We arrive at camp some time after 11:15, and everyone is out by the bon-fire... including Rick Jemison, my fellow Indianapolis XS'er. But wait a minute... where is his bike? Turns out that when Rick was ready to go, Indianapolis, and most of the mid-west, was experiencing major rain. So he did what any man desperate for a vacation would do....he threw everything from his bike into the trunk of his car and hit the road! I was just glad he made it! Everyone was in great spirits.... some more than others! Wait a minute... why is Bob Canel on his back on the picnic table? When I go inside to get a drink, I found out why.... seems there is this empty bottle of Absolute Citron in the kitchen! He and Dale killed it! When I get back outside, I found out I won the award for the most problems getting to camp! My prize? A plastic reindeer driving a christmas tree (picture )... presented as a source of alternative transportation should my bike "crap out" on the way home... I accepted the award with pride... after all, I DID make it to camp!
Shortly after all of this, Bob Canel gets carried back to his motel room, and the majority of the group starts heading off to bed. Dale, Rick, Joseph and I (did I forget somebody?) are the last hold outs, and are treated to a presentation of Dale's gun collection... and a very cool collection indeed! Finally, it is just Dale and I, drinking and talking to the wee hours, once again (I think I got to be closer to 3:00am this time!). I finally stumble into my tent and it's lights out... what a great day!
Saturday August 8th, 1998
This morning I wake up speaking in tongues! It's all Dale's fault! I think it was about 9:00am when I got up, but I really can't remember. I start out (after coffee) by trying to figure out how I am going to configure my bike for the trip home (picture ). Part of this is easy.... Rick's misfortune is my luck! Because he drove to camp, he agreed to carry alot of my stuff back to Indy with him (thanks Rick!). I know for sure I am going without my luggage rack! As I am packing, some of the group (who didn't stay up with Dale!) begin to leave. First to go is John and Linda Higgins ((picture), followed shortly by Sid Hansen and Kathy O'Connor ((picture). Rick Jemison ((picture) leaves shortly after that in his cage to tour the Custer Battlefield. I finally decide to make the trip home with just my pelican case "trunks" (this idea will not last long) and my tank bag. Mike Cummings ((picture ) and Bob Canel then show up (maybe with some others, I am really in a fog at this point!), and we talk while I am packing up. I finally get everything packed up and hit the shower... and am ready to leave. Just before I go, another wave of XS'ers arrive for camp! It is Bob & Marvina Garcia, Ernie Basener & Cousin (I was hung over so I forgot names) and I think Jonathan Walther, all from South Dakota! (sorry if I forgot or missed anyone else... I am bad with names!) I feel bad because we only visit for a short while... but it is close to 11:00am, and I need to make some miles today. So, I say my good-bye's and hit the road ((picture ).... somebody took this other (picture of me when I left....oops, guess I forgot to put my kickstand down!
About a mile down the road, I realized that the pelican case strapped to my seat thing was not going to work. So, I went to Wall Mart and got a good sized soft sided bag, some tie down straps and headed to Mail Boxes, Etc. After transferring everything from the pelican cases to the soft sided bag, I went into the mailing shop and shipped the pelican cases back home. After this it is gasoline, some lunch at McDonald's and showtime! It is now after 12:00pm.
I hit I-90 and start screaming down the road. It is hot as hell, and I am trying to create some wind! I commit to myself no less than 90 miles between stops (short, by Iron Butt standards!), and stop for gas in Spearfish. Man, it is hot, but there are clouds on the horizon. Very short stop and I am back on the road. Blow by the Sturgis exit and all of the sudden the eastbound traffic (mostly bikes) is heavier... only a couple of days left in the Rally so people are heading home. As I am approaching and going through Rapid City, the dark clouds get worse and develop into some really wicked storms all around me. I am lucky though, as the only rain I experience is some heavy sprinkles while in the middle of Rapid City. The lightening is intense all around me though, but I press on. I have decided to shoot for Wall (NOT Wall Drug!) as the next gas stop, and barely make it. I am weaving the bike back and forth to slosh the remaining gas in the tank around as I am pulling up to the gas station. Gas up, call my wife, grab a snack and hit the road.... sky is clearing up. It is now mid afternoon. I go for about 95 miles and hit Murdo for gas... staring to get late in the afternoon and I am wondering about the availability of motel rooms down the road. Decide to shoot for Chamberlain and try my luck there.
I pull off at Chamberlain just before dusk, gas up and begin to check the motels... everyone is full! One more to try before I get back on the highway. It is a Comfort Inn. At the lobby, the clerk tells me all the room are taken, bit that the owner was out back right that moment changing the sheets in his RV in preparation to renting it for the night. He is a nice guy and offers it to me (no water) for $50. Hell, all of the motel rooms in town were over $80! No water, but he gives me access to a bathroom and a sink in the motel, and the promise of a shower if I wait until after 7:00am to leave. I pay him, pass on the shower (I plan on being on the road by 5:30am) and head inside the motel to wash off. He points me off in the direction of a local steak joint and I head to dinner. Great steak place! Have a couple of drinks at the bar, eat a GREAT sirloin, cruise around town for awhile and head back to "my" RV. In bed by around 9:00pm. Early start tomorrow! Did about 348 miles today, which ain't bad considering my late start.
Sunday August 9th, 1998
The report for this date will be short for a couple of reasons.... first of all, I got started early (around 5:30am) and had nothing other in mind than making miles... get home tonight? Second, I want to get this trip report done, and there was not much that occurred on this day other than the hardest, and longest riding of my life. This was my test of endurance, and I almost made my goal, which was home. I did ok until mid-afternoon, which found me in Iowa (damn, but South Dakota is one big State!) but I was now just getting through Des Moines. By 3:00pm I was starting to fade... and man was it hot! My breaks became more frequent and more lengthy. I attempted, once past Des Moines, for a brief stint in the Iron Butt Motel, but it was too hot and I was too keyed up... so I went on. Sometimes I only made it 60 or 70 miles before I had to stop. Finally, around 6:30pm or so, I entered Illinois... my next to last State! Once I was was on I-74... I took an extended break, but still could not sleep. I jumped back on the highway at dusk, and immediately knew it was no joy.... I wasn't going to make it home tonight. I made it to Peoria and that was it... I was done. Could I have made it?... well, probably... but it wasn't worth the risk. Anyway, with the number of stops I would have had to make, I wouldn't have arrived home until after midnight. I could see no point in continuing, so I didn't.
On the east side of Peoria, I got a room in the seediest Knights Inn I have ever seen... but I didn't care. It was dark, I was hungry and very tired. I got a sandwich at a convenience store across the street, called my wife (who concurred with my decision), calculated my miles for the day, and died. 742 miles today... far beyond my previous personal best.
Monday August 10th, 1998
Homecoming day. I sleep through the 6am wake-up call and alarm, and don't awake until 8:30am. No big deal. I shower, pack and am on the road by 9:00am. My spirits are high, because I now know that I am within reach of one of the most satisfying personal accomplishments of my life. I am almost home! Which means all of the months (years!) of wrenching and other preparations are about to be fulfilled with the successful completion of my trip. I am literally grinning ear to ear as I pass the Indiana line! I slow down now and cruise the limit (first time on the whole trip!)... trying to savor the feeling, which is not hard... I have not felt so good, so happy, in a very long time. I express these sentiments to my machine, out loud, as I cruise towards home. To some, this may sound crazy, but my machine, Sticky Fingers, and I forged a bond on this trip that I can't describe, and in fact, can only be understood by those who have done something like this. This machine, which I acquired in not the best of shape, allowed me to work on her and learn while I was doing it... to, in effect, bring her back to life. Then she carried me on this trip, the object, the goal of all of that work, with only the most minor of complaints, which I believe were intended to keep me respectful and honest.... and now we were almost home. My friend has carried me the whole way...
I arrived home around lunch time. My wife was at work and my boy at daycare. I opened a beer and toasted my bike. I sat on the driveway for nearly an hour, leaning against Sticky Fingers... as happy as I could ever remember being, and all I could think or say was..."thanks". Here is a (picture of my wonderful machine, shortly after our arrival.
Epilogue
XS Camp was a dream come true for me. Unlike many of you, I have never, in my life, done anything like this. I have only been riding for a short time, and this trip really showed me what riding, and the bond between man and machine, was really all about.
I first of all want to thank the host's of XS Camp '98 for their wonderful hospitality and for opening their home to us. Dale, Lois, Robby and Rosa Hicks... thank you! Also, for those of you raising children as I am, I want to point out how proud Dale and Lois should be of Rosa and Robby. Finer young adults I have never met... and I really mean that.
Secondly, to all of those who attended camp (and I don't dare try to individually name you all!), it was truly my honor to meet you.... how rare it must be for such a fine group of people to assemble based solely on our love for motorcycles and the relatively anonymous interchange on the list... but it did indeed happen!
Finally.. "the list".... there is no way in hell that any of the preceding pages would have been written if not for the technical and "moral" support I have received from the "best damn motorcycle related list on the 'net"... I thank you all!
Fight the wind... be safe... and may love fill your hearts... God bless.