Tweet
I got these about a month and a half ago now but I wanted to use them for a while before giving a review.
I gotta say they are pretty great. They are pretty comfortable and very sturdy. Someone mentioned they had a set and it flexed a lot but I havent seen any of that.
The brackets are very nice, heavy powder coated steel and the pegs are gnarled aluminum.
The linkage kit which you can buy separately is 2 threaded rods, 2 tubes to slide over the rods (makes them ver rigid and looks good), nuts and washers for everything and 4 ball joints. The linkage kit was $75 and they give you the NAPA part numbers for the ball joints. I think if you bought it all separately you could probably save a good deal.
The only thing I didn't like about the parts were the mounting bolts. They are regular old steel (Grade 5?) bolts. For the price and the work they put into them it would have been nice to see stainless button head bolts.
They mount on the forward engine mounts very easily with little to no modifications. The instructions call for the brackets to be mounted so they are pointed to the back but I flipped them upside down. This way instead of being 2 inches behind the engine mounts they are 2 inches ahead. So they are somewhat adjustable. Being a tall guy I needed the extra.
Mounting them was very straight forward however I had to make some modifications due to my RC Performance exhaust. The websites states that nothing needs to be done if you have stock exhaust but you will need to modify your rear brake and clutch levers.
I bought one of each on eBay so I could keep my originals. They are in too good of shape to want to chop them up. The spare only cost about $8 each.
I first cut the shifter to 4.25 inches. At that length it was a bit difficult to shift. It required too much movement. Yesterday I cut it down to 2 inches. It only takes a small movement to shift now and feels much more solid when shifting. I think 2.5 inches would be just right. After shortening the lever I did have to put a bend in the linkage to clear the timing cover. Bring some muscle this. After the pipe is over the threaded rod, its very sturdy.
I had to heat and bend the heck out of the brake lever to clear the exhaust. It takes a lot of travel to brake with it this way but I plan to have a new lever made that comes out of the brake at 90 degrees then down again. Should make for a nice small movement.
Over all, I am very happy with them. They are a bit spendy but I would recommend them to anyone.
I gotta say they are pretty great. They are pretty comfortable and very sturdy. Someone mentioned they had a set and it flexed a lot but I havent seen any of that.
The brackets are very nice, heavy powder coated steel and the pegs are gnarled aluminum.
The linkage kit which you can buy separately is 2 threaded rods, 2 tubes to slide over the rods (makes them ver rigid and looks good), nuts and washers for everything and 4 ball joints. The linkage kit was $75 and they give you the NAPA part numbers for the ball joints. I think if you bought it all separately you could probably save a good deal.
The only thing I didn't like about the parts were the mounting bolts. They are regular old steel (Grade 5?) bolts. For the price and the work they put into them it would have been nice to see stainless button head bolts.
They mount on the forward engine mounts very easily with little to no modifications. The instructions call for the brackets to be mounted so they are pointed to the back but I flipped them upside down. This way instead of being 2 inches behind the engine mounts they are 2 inches ahead. So they are somewhat adjustable. Being a tall guy I needed the extra.
Mounting them was very straight forward however I had to make some modifications due to my RC Performance exhaust. The websites states that nothing needs to be done if you have stock exhaust but you will need to modify your rear brake and clutch levers.
I bought one of each on eBay so I could keep my originals. They are in too good of shape to want to chop them up. The spare only cost about $8 each.
I first cut the shifter to 4.25 inches. At that length it was a bit difficult to shift. It required too much movement. Yesterday I cut it down to 2 inches. It only takes a small movement to shift now and feels much more solid when shifting. I think 2.5 inches would be just right. After shortening the lever I did have to put a bend in the linkage to clear the timing cover. Bring some muscle this. After the pipe is over the threaded rod, its very sturdy.
I had to heat and bend the heck out of the brake lever to clear the exhaust. It takes a lot of travel to brake with it this way but I plan to have a new lever made that comes out of the brake at 90 degrees then down again. Should make for a nice small movement.
Over all, I am very happy with them. They are a bit spendy but I would recommend them to anyone.
Comment