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High Temp Clear Coats... Not!

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  • High Temp Clear Coats... Not!

    After a full restoration project, the last thing I expected was to see the high temp clear coat I used on my engine case halves turning amber to light brown.
    I decided to resolve the problem as good as possible without pulling the engine apart. My plan was to scuff the existing case surfaces and repaint it without a clear coat. Removing all the covers and components to get down to as much case exposed as possible.

    But just to be sure I did a test. I took a torque converter cover, which is aluminum and painted the cover with DupliColor DE1615 Aluminum. Then I clear coated two areas. One with DupliColor DE1636 and one with PlastKote 229. Both high temp, 500 degree clear coatings.

    After 5 days, I baked the part in the oven till the temp was just under 300 degrees. The pictures tell the story. The next test needs to be clear coat on bare aluminum I guess, maybe then it would perform OK. I intend to check with the manufactures and see what they say.

    I decided to just repaint with the DE1615 and no clear.... turned out real nice!



    DE1636 on the left, DE1615 w/o clear coat in the middle, 229 on the right
    '78 XS1100E
    '83 XVZ12

  • #2
    Wow that is pretty bad!
    Nathan
    KD9ARL

    μολὼν λαβέ

    1978 XS1100E
    K&N Filter
    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
    OEM Exhaust
    ATK Fork Brace
    LED Dash lights
    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

    Green Monster Coils
    SS Brake Lines
    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

    Theodore Roosevelt

    Comment


    • #3
      Be sure you let each coat properly cure as it's written on the can. Then bake in two stages, the base coat is gassing off under the clear coat.
      Former owner, but I have NO PARTS LEFT!

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by DAVINCI View Post
        Be sure you let each coat properly cure as it's written on the can. Then bake in two stages, the base coat is gassing off under the clear coat.
        Maybe that's the secret; baking the base coat to fully cure it or give it seven days of dry time. Scuff it, then clear coat it. To the contrary the instructions on the can state to clear coat the base coat within 1 hour of applying the base coat. Oh well the engine looks good without the clear and for now that's good. If I can produce successful test results sometime then maybe I'll try again in the future. A test of just clear coat on raw aluminum will be my next test. That will yield valuable info.
        '78 XS1100E
        '83 XVZ12

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by jfmerk View Post

          I intend to check with the manufactures and see what they say.
          I heard back from PlastiKote who makes the 229 Clear Engine Enamel. Their response was:

          "Good morning Jeff,Thank you for your inquiry. The 229 Clear Coat is not a high temperature coating. This will start to discolor around 300F. I do not know of any of the aerosol companies carrying a high temperature clear. I am glad this was only a test. Please feel free to contact me if you have any further questions. Sincerely"

          I guess they don't consider 500 degree Engine Enamel a high temp coating???

          I'll post my reply from DupliColor as well.

          Just FYI
          '78 XS1100E
          '83 XVZ12

          Comment


          • #6
            So when they say 500 they don't really mean that I guess.....
            Nathan
            KD9ARL

            μολὼν λαβέ

            1978 XS1100E
            K&N Filter
            #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
            OEM Exhaust
            ATK Fork Brace
            LED Dash lights
            Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

            Green Monster Coils
            SS Brake Lines
            Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

            In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

            Theodore Roosevelt

            Comment


            • #7
              DupliColor Reply

              I contacted DupliColor through their web site and explained my dis-coloration problem with their DE1636 high temp clear coat. After answering some of their questions regarding my application process and providing upc codes and batch numbers they provided me with the response:


              8/17/2011 9:34:51 AM [Agent Note]

              Jeff,

              Thank you for contacting Dupli-Color. We appreciate your response.

              If the clear coat is turning brown it has to do with how hot the engine is getting. The easiest fix is not to use the clear coat. While the clear coat provides a little more extra protection, the Engine Enamel paint itself is durable enough to withstand the elements and resist high heat. If you would like to provide me with your full name, physical address, and how many cans you need I would be happy to send you out replacements. Please advise me if you would like me to do so.

              I hope you found this information helpful. If you have any additional questions please email me back.

              Sincerely,

              Jill
              Dupli-Color Product Support


              They followed up and stated they would submit my information to the marketing department per my request and offered a refund of the paint cost, which is nice but they really need to stop selling it as a high temperature solution for clear coating engines.

              Just FYI,

              Jeff
              '78 XS1100E
              '83 XVZ12

              Comment


              • #8
                Take a look at SHARKHIDE. Maybe this is the answer?

                I used Glisten PC on my XS650 fork legs years ago, and it's still crystal clear. It needs to be sprayed on. Also, it will dull the shine of polished aluminum slightly. It may be OK for high heat. I'll let you read up on it.
                Marty (in Mississippi)
                XS1100SG
                XS650SK
                XS650SH
                XS650G
                XS6502F
                XS650E

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by jetmechmarty View Post
                  SHARKHIDE
                  The aerosol can has been discontinued
                  81 XS1100H

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Clear

                    This is the ONLY clear I have found that does not yellow due to heat:

                    http://www.eastwood.com/ew-diamond-c...ero-11-oz.html

                    And, yes, it can be used over paint also
                    1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
                    1980 XS1100 Special
                    1990 V Max
                    1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
                    1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
                    1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
                    1974 CB750-Four



                    Past/pres Car's
                    1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Eastwood Diamond Clear...

                      ...is worth the money. I've clear coated parts that won't be affected by heat and it's very durable. It goes on kind of milky but dries really clear. The best I've used to date. I intend to spray my carbs when I finish polishing them and the oil pan and cam cover also. The engines sidecovers are accessable enough to polish but, who knows, if it holds up to the heat maybe I'll shoot them along with the forks also.
                      1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
                      1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
                      1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
                      1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
                      1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

                      Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Chrome

                        You DO lose some of the "chrome" look you get from polishing the alum, more of a OEM look, as it was coated from the factory, but holds up better with less maintance
                        Originally posted by Schming View Post
                        ...is worth the money. I've clear coated parts that won't be affected by heat and it's very durable. It goes on kind of milky but dries really clear. The best I've used to date. I intend to spray my carbs when I finish polishing them and the oil pan and cam cover also. The engines sidecovers are accessable enough to polish but, who knows, if it holds up to the heat maybe I'll shoot them along with the forks also.
                        1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
                        1980 XS1100 Special
                        1990 V Max
                        1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
                        1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
                        1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
                        1974 CB750-Four



                        Past/pres Car's
                        1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8

                        Comment

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