Low cost after-market sealed connectors - Molex MX150

[Prothec]

I finally finished re-wrapping my harness and replacing a number of connectors on my XJ11.

A word of warning for those who look at connectors that take the Molex-style crimp terminals:
The white wires on the reg/rect are a larger wire gauge. With the insulation on them, they fit into the connector housing, but not with the insulation crimped with the connector like you're supposed to crimp them. I don't know what wire gauge it is, but I thought these could handle up to 14 ga. Maybe that's if you have a real crimp tool

I probably wouldn't trust the crimps even if I had the tool for them. I soldered the wire to the connector after I folded down the tabs with pliers. I learned the housing on these connectors are very picky about the back end of the connector. You need to be careful to get them perfectly the right size for the housing to accept them. After you mess up probably about 4 terminals, you get the hang of it and get in the groove. I actually broke one of the male housings when trying to disassemble it (like they strongly suggest you don't do) because I tried to cram one of the larger gauge wires in and couldn't get it to seat or get it back out.

Molex Sealed Connector System

Ultimately, once I put on the connectors I wanted to replace, I am extremely happy with them. They are environmentally sealed with a special rubber piece that the connector and wire insulation push through as you seat them in the housing. They disconnect and connect with very little force and are solid once connected. Hopefully no more scraped knuckles disconnecting a stuck connector!

Female:



Male:



I bought an assortment from an online vendor to meet their minimum order and paid under ~$5/ea shipped.

[jetmechmarty]

A Molex type crimper is available from Mike's XS. It works well enough on the stock Molex type connectors. I've seen Molex connectors used on commercial aircraft cabin emergency lights, so I guess it should work well enough on a motorcycle. Making the proper crimp is imperative.

[Jerry]

I use waterproof Molex conectors for my trailer. Got a couple sets off washing machines at the local dump. The connectors already had wires on them, so I just soldered my wires to the existing connector wires. Spare set plus into the bike and trailer sides when I am not towing to keep the connections clean and water-free. I use 5 wires out of the 6 available, but have seen 8-wire connectors on some of the old washers. Reminds me to look for a couple more on my next trip.

[jwhughes3]

great idea

thanks Ben, Marty and Jerry.

john

[Prothec]

Making the proper crimp is imperative.

I'm sure it's necessary for the ratings that they use for a quality crimp, but I'm sure soldering is just as good for a solid connection. It just takes significantly longer to populate the connectors

Got a couple sets off washing machines at the local dump. The connectors already had wires on them, so I just soldered my wires to the existing connector wires.

This is a great idea. Maybe that's what I'll do the next time I need something like this!

[cywelchjr]

The problem with soldering in a vehicle is unless you have some sort of a strain relief system to make sure the wire is not going to flex, you have a weak point in the wire next to the solder joint. This is inherent in the soldering process and cannot be avoided. In milspec situations the wires are tied down and strain relieved because the advantages of soldered connections outweigh the disadvantages of the weak spot which can be mitigated with the strain relief/tie-downs. In most other applications, a truly good crimp is better (the exception possibly being in a marine environment, and even there a good sealed connector with a good quality crimp may still be better than soldered).

This situation is especially true with stranded wiring, as the solder turns the stranded wiring into a solid wire up to the end of the soldered region where it abruptly becomes stranded again, and this is the weak point, both from the heating and cooling cycle and the sharp bending region where the solder ends. The larger the strands are, the less this is an issue, but the less tolerant the wires are to flexing to begin with, but the more tolerant to stretching forces they are. So if you feel you must solder, make sure the wire CANNOT flex at the junction between the soldered and non-soldered section of the wire, that is where the wire will break. This is doubly true of the pickup coil wires, you don't want a solder joint out there trying to flex, cause it WILL break at that weak spot, sooner rather than later, at least put some heat shrink over it to prevent flexing as much as possible.

[jetmechmarty]

Ya, what he said! There's a correct way to crimp Molex type connectors, and that's the only way you should do it.

Here's a half-a$$ description of how to do it with pliers:
http://www.ehow.com/how_6322936_inst...imp-molex.html

Mike's XS is one source to buy the crimper.

[CatatonicBug]

Mike's XS is one source to buy the crimper.

Geezer sells 'em too, along with all the OEM plugs and terminals.

[crazy steve]

What's the amp rating on these? For most connections on these bikes, it doesn't matter, but in a few places it would (such as the alternator connections and main switch). I'm cleaning/fixing a harness right now, and am a bit disappointed with Yamaha's choice of unplated brass contacts in most places, coupled with non-sealed connectors. No wonder these have corrosion problems...

[jetmechmarty]

Steve,

You're right about the connectors, but they work fine with "proper care and feeding". Environmental alternatives are usually cost prohibitive, as is the proper tooling.

Marty (in New York)

[crazy steve]

I'm actually getting ready to make the leap and pick up the tool and an assortment of Duetsch connectors. I've always liked these since I first saw them, but difficulty in finding a vendor who didn't only sell in bulk and initial high cost kept me away. But I've checked recently and found costs have come down (between about $5 and $8 for 2, 3, and 4 wire, and that's with the premium solid pins) and you can now get singles. You can now get a lower-cost crimp tool too ($40 vs $260!), so that helps a bunch.

You can get these in amp ratings of 7, 13, 25 in most combos, and up to 100 amps in limited types. The 13 amp are the least expensive...

[jetmechmarty]

Steve,

How about a link? I'd be interested.

[crazy steve]

Some links....

These guys offer a 'kit' with an assortment....
http://www.deutschconnector.com/prod...ts.html#dt_kit

... but I priced it out here...
http://www.wirecare.com/deutsch-conn...er=2&Series=DT
... and figured I could buy the same thing (less a few mounting brackets and the box) for about $170. These guys also offer 'bulk' pricing, but it's only in quantities of 10 (before, all I could find was 50 or more minimums!), so you can save even more.

And a cheaper crimp tool...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

I've got a Tyco/Amp set, but it's much cheesier and nearly as expensive (but still better than OEM). The Deutsch is the stuff....