'84 Kawasaki KZ550 Clutch question

[xssiveone]

Anyone familiar with these bikes? The clutch on mine has started slipping while in higher gears in the power band. Doesn't slip at all in the lower gears, but if I get on it in the higher gears, when it hits the power band (about 6500RPM) the clutch slips. Clymers sez that if it only slips under heavy load, then the springs are suspect. I'm planning on taking it down tomorrow and measuring the plates. Until I get new springs for it, I'm wondering if I can get away with shimming the springs, as some have done with their XS's.

[prometheus578]

I'd say clutch friction plates, but until you measure them you can't be sure. On the friction plates, also look to see if there's any wear on the "tabs"... the parts that engage the basket. Would also be an indicator that they're too thin and need to go.
Also have you checked to see that the clutch isn't adjusted too tightly? Having no freeplay in the lever/cable would keep the plates partially disengaged/not tighly pressed together enough, which would really show when whomping on it at higher speeds when the engine has to work harder to turn the tire, due to the gearing involved..

[xssiveone]

Book calls for 1/8" of free play, I've set it at almost 1/4". Only cable adjustment on this model as well, no adjustment screw on the engine like the XS has.

[Geezer]

Clutches alway slip more in the higher gears until they're so badly worn that they slip in all gears.

Take it apart and look at the plates. The friction plates are probably worn and glazed.

Check that the steel plates will lay flat on a glass plate. If not, it's time for new ones.

Geezer

[xssiveone]

Finally got the clutch removed this afternoon. 30 minute job, but life kept getting in my way. Measured friction plates, all well within spec, and no glazing that I could see. None of the steel plates are warped or blue from excess heat. Springs are all within spec for length, altho a couple are border line so will see if I can get a set.

There is one problem I encountered, and that is the outer clutch hub or drum, and it's attachement to the large primary gear. If the pic in the manual is accurate, it's fastened to the gear by 6 rivets. Is it safe to say that there should be no movement between the gear and the clutch drum? Or is there a built in shock absorber there that the manual fails to mention? I haven't attempted to remove it yet... want to tap the brain trust here just in case it's supposed to be like that.

[prometheus578]

Shall check the microfiche at work tomorrow. What type of oil are you running?

[xssiveone]

Originally posted by prometheus578
Shall check the microfiche at work tomorrow. What type of oil are you running?

Oh sure, bring an oil thread to a clutch thread!!

Thanks, I would appreciate the fiche check. As for oil, dino juice that is 4 stroke m/c specific.. a brand that I have been running for a couple of years.

[GNEPIG]

.. i've put an extra steel plate in my clutch packs when they start to do what you have described
it seems that over the years the basket and pressure plate wear out some also creating more space between them for the plates to fill
i have done this to several bikes over the years with good results

.. the new set of springs are also a good idea

[Geezer]

Just because you can't see the glazing doesn't mean it isn't there. Rough up the steel plates with coarse sand paper and lightly rough up the friction plates with fine sand paper. Clean thoroughly with acetone or alcohol and reassemble. Also do breathe the fumes…

It would probably be better off with a set of new friction plates but this will make it better.

Geezer

[xssiveone]

I'm going to try and get new friction disks, but not sure if I can get them overnight or not. Yeah, I know.. why did I leave it untill the last minute....

I should have clarified in my previous post about the outer clutch hub. I can feel movement between it and the primary gear. I don't think there should be any movement there, but I did have someone on the KZ group tell me that some movement is normal.

[prometheus578]

fumes?

QUOTE]Clean thoroughly with acetone or alcohol and reassemble. Also do breathe the fumes…[/QUOTE]

I was cleaning carbs, not clutchs, but opened a can of acetone and set it next to me. After a few minutes, I put my tools down and went upstairs to watch cartoons.
I think Geezer meant do NOT breathe the fumes. I'm just so gullible!

[Geezer]

Re: fumes?

Originally posted by prometheus578
QUOTE]Clean thoroughly with acetone or alcohol and reassemble. Also do breathe the fumes…

I was cleaning carbs, not clutchs, but opened a can of acetone and set it next to me. After a few minutes, I put my tools down and went upstairs to watch cartoons.
I think Geezer meant do NOT breathe the fumes. I'm just so gullible! [/QUOTE]

I must have been breating too many fumes or I should stop posting late at night. I sure as hell meant not to beathe the oders coming out of a can of acetone, that stuff will rot your brain.

Geezer

[prometheus578]

Microfiche just shows drumand gear as one unit. Whether there is anything rivetted inside is anyone's guess, but I doubt it

[btchalice]

a little movement is normal but ask at kzrider.com to be sure
i have a kz900 and 1000 to go along with the xs1100

[xssiveone]

Originally posted by btchalice
a little movement is normal but ask at kzrider.com to be sure
i have a kz900 and 1000 to go along with the xs1100

Thanks, been there already and got the same information that you just provided so I guess it's good to go. I shimmed the springs until I can get replacememts and didn't notice anymore slipping.

Beanblossom or bust!!