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Does this carb stand a chance?

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  • #16
    I see the two Kens are thinking alike and at the same time!
    Rat

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    • #17
      The Last Hurdle

      I bought some screw extractors from my local Canadian Tire. It involves drilling a pilot whole then using an extractor to get the seized/stripped screw out.

      They worked great on the first bolt, but I can into some problems on the last bolt. Apparently soaking for 2 weeks in WD-40 wasn't enough to loosen the bolt becuase it snapped the extractor bit in two. "Hardened & Tempered Chrome-Vanadium Steel" my A$$.

      So now I am not only stuck with a VERY seized pilot screw, but also part of the extractor in there as well.

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      • #18
        I have never used an extractor that didn't snap. They're not worth sh**.

        I know I'm not helping.

        Have you tried cutting a slot in the screw with a dremel, or a hacksaw in a pinch?

        Then heat the area with a propane torch, screw should ( ) come right out.

        HTH

        Randy

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        • #19
          I can't cut a slot with a dremmel it is too recessed. I tried one of the diamond burs but they are all too big and eat away almost half the pilot screw.

          I thought about heating it with a butane torch but doesn't brass expand faster than aluminum?

          These carbs are going to be the death of me. I can't wait to get them cleaned and rebuilt. I got them for a steal but they are really making me work for it now.

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          • #20
            An economy set of diamond burrs like these available from Lee Valley Tools will do the trick:



            I believe this set runs about CDN$15
            Ken Talbot

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            • #21
              Sorry, I thought you were having trouble with the screw that blocks the pilot jet hole. Of course, the jet is in too deep to score with a dremel.

              Perhaps if you can get the remains of the extractor out with the burr, you might then try tapping through the center of the jet to cut matreial away. Using progressively larger tap bits, ending with the last tap the exact size of the jet threads.

              I think that as you cut most of the jet away, it should begin to turn as you back out the tap bit.

              That's what I would try, anyway

              HTH

              Randy

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              • #22
                I used a left handed drill bit to get mine out, but they didn't unscrew. I ended up drilling the jets out and picking the threds out with dental pics and then using a tap. I thought the carbs were probably ruined, but they were OK and the jets HAD to come out.
                Bill Murrin
                Nashville, TN
                1981 XS1100SH "Kick in the Ass"
                1981 XS650SH "Numb in the Ass"
                2005 DL1000 V-Strom "WOW"
                2005 FJR1300 Newest ride
                1993 ST1100 "For Sale $2,700" (Sold)
                2005 Ninja 250 For Sale $2,000 1100 miles

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                • #23
                  My luck SUCKS!

                  I gave up on trying to get that seized pilot screw out, it broke one extractor and 3 drill bits. So I decided to pull the carbs on the bike and use the carb bodies from on the bike and clean them and put all the newly cleaned parts from the donor carbs in.

                  Well to my suprise there are 2 pilot jets already stripped and seized on the bike from the PO.

                  I am going to take them to my local motorcycle shop tommorow and hope that they can get them out.

                  If not can I dissasmble the bank of carbs and combine from the donor carb #1, #2, and #4 and swap the #1 from the current carbs into the #3 spot?

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                  • #24
                    hate to say

                    i don't want to piss on your cheereoos,but the time and energy,and money youv'e already spent on theese things,could you not have got a set off ebay or some where cheeper?(taking them to a bike shop?65 dollars an hour? youv'e got how many hours into them?) iv'e got a bank from an xj i'd part with relitivly cheep if that will help you? And thats all i have to say...lol,good luck anyhoo
                    1982 XJ 1100
                    going strong after 60,000 miles

                    The new and not yet improved TRIXY
                    now in the stable. 1982 xj11, 18,000miles

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                    • #25
                      The mechanic got the idle mixture screw out without damage. So I put all the new clean parts back in, did a bench sync with breadtie, threw the carbs on, adjusted the floats. Then started her up.

                      It took a couple minutes but then she roared to life. I let it idle for about 10 minutes I was happy. Shut her down, went inside to get my gear for a test drive. When I came back out she started better than ever.

                      Left the parking lot slowly, shifted to second, and she starts making that gurgling sound when she is out of gas. I pull over and she stalls.

                      Now I can't get it to start anymore. I realize that it must be running lean for that sound.

                      I have spent 8 hours so far trying to figure this out without luck. I have tried almost every idle mixture screw combination I can think of, I tried various choke settings, and I tried jacking the idle speed.

                      If I do get her to catch she just dies out after about 5 seconds.

                      Anyone have any helpful advice?

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                      • #26
                        Turn the petcock to PRIME

                        -Justin

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                        • #27
                          if only it were that easy, there is gas already in the bowls, has to be to check the float levels

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