This year I made the mistake of striping oil pan and final drive by overtightening!!!!The torque wrench at harbor 20 ft. lbs. to 100 ft. lbs.. Is this the tool that I need or r values to high for oil plug and final drive. Thanks..Or is this junk? What to buy....
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I can't recall (because the answer is "never") the last time I torque wrenched an oil drain plug or an FD drain/fill plug when tightening. For me it's a proper snugness that is familiar after 35 years of oil drain plugs, differential and transfer case drain plugs and motorcycle oil pan/FD plugs of all kinds. I guess if a torque wrench was not working right, you could have this exact problem, but I would sense things were getting too tight long before the torque was over done and stripped.
What jetmechmarty said is probably good advice, but pay attention with the 'ol "seat of the pants" feeling regardless.
Good luck with getting the threads fixed.Last edited by Bonz; 01-16-2016, 08:51 PM.Howard
ZRX1200
BTW, ZRX carbs have the same spacing as the XS11... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35462
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Hi Ton & Bonz,
Let me start with the stripped plug. The plugs for both my engine oil and rear dif have become stripped. I have some experience with tightening bolts and am no gorilla. Steel plugs into aluminum are. in my view. a high risk application. Who knows what abuse mine had had before I started to baby them and yet they have stripped. I bought a cheap inch/pound torque wrench from Princess Auto , the Canadian equivalent of Harbor Freight.
I was amazed to discover in the nice plastic case it comes in was the TEST REPORT from the factory showing the variance across the range.
Adverised as 3% mine was less than 1% ( according to the hand filled in) report accros the whole range.
Marty is correct in that most instruments are most accurate at the centre of the scale.
Mine is a 1/4" drive so i bought the 1/4 step up to 3/8 so I can carry just 3/8 drive sockets on the bike.
The PO stripped one of the spark plug holes on mine. so another area to be very careful
PhilLast edited by MaximPhil; 01-16-2016, 09:31 PM.1981 XS1100 H Venturer ( Addie)
1983 XJ 650 Maxim
2004 Kawasaki Concours. ( Black Bear)
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Thanks .I've been wrenching for many years never stripted anything. But as stated steel on aluminum not good bedfellows.
When bringing rachet wrench up to drain plug it was in tight mode,I thought it was set to loosen .Bam one quarter turn and stripted. I thought since I was that dumb,at least a torque wrench would release.Can't believe I don't own one.Well lesson learned..Good Day.!!!Last edited by tomcos67; 01-16-2016, 10:20 PM.1980xs1100.sg Pacifica Fairing ..stock.
2006 Honda Shadow Spirit 1100.! ⛺
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That sucks. Set to tighten mode and you turned it the wrong way... We've all done something like that at one point or another in our wrenching career.
IMO, given sealing washers (maybe a nylon washer vs a crush washer) and steel plugs into aluminum, it doesn't take much force to make a good seal and in the counter-intuitive sense, could be a good reason to not try for factory specs on torque. It's all hind sight at this point, but maybe something for all of us to consider next time we do those drain plugs. I know I will keep a good eye out on that for sure!Howard
ZRX1200
BTW, ZRX carbs have the same spacing as the XS11... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35462
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Originally posted by Bonz View PostThat sucks. Set to tighten mode and you turned it the wrong way... We've all done something like that at one point or another in our wrenching career.
IMO, given sealing washers (maybe a nylon washer vs a crush washer) and steel plugs into aluminum, it doesn't take much force to make a good seal and in the counter-intuitive sense, could be a good reason to not try for factory specs on torque. It's all hind sight at this point, but maybe something for all of us to consider next time we do those drain plugs. I know I will keep a good eye out on that for sure!81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
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FWIW, I simply flip the washer / at each oil change. That way I am recompressing it, sort of. It can be re-annealed very quickly as well.Howard
ZRX1200
BTW, ZRX carbs have the same spacing as the XS11... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35462
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Originally posted by motoman View PostA tight fitting over threads copper washer has worked for me a few decades. No leaks,weeps, and fortunately no errors................. as of yet.
That's what I use. I anneal them over and over. Fiber washers are a good option as well. It doesn't take much torque to seal them.Marty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650E
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Pittsburgh #807
Originally posted by tomcos67 View PostSNIP..Or is this junk? What to buy....
I am the very FIRST person that will "RAG" on Harbor Freight tools (and misc. supplies) as garbage. Having spent nearly a year rebuilding my best friend's '77 Vette where the ONLY tools he had in his shop were from Harbor Freight. Those HF tools, frequently broke, always at the most inconvenient time(s), smashing knuckles, and/or causing some other damage.
HOWEVER, I own several torque wrenches including a "Pittsburgh #807" from Harbor Freight. This #807 is one of only a couple of items I WOULD recommend. It is a well made tool that is very accurate compared to my Snap-On and my Westward torque wrenches. I don't think this wrench cost more than $20? (if that?) and is a great value.
NOTE: When not in use, calibrated spring style torque wrenches should be stored in the fully loosened position.
Sincerely,
KURTKurt Boehringer
Peachtree City, Georgia
1970 - CT70K0 - Mini-Trail
1978 - SR500 - Thumper
1979 - CT70H - Mini-Trail
1979 - XS1100SF - Pensacola
1980 - XS850SG - Rocky
1980 - XS1100SG - The Ugly Duck
1980 - XS1100SG - Mayberry Duck
1981 - XS1100SH - DEAD Duck Cafe'
1981 - XJ550 Maxim - Nancy's Mini-Max
1982 - XJ650 SECA - Hurricane
1986 - FJ1200 - Georgia Big Red
1992 - FZR1000 - Genesis
2016 - FJR1300A - Montgomery
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Originally posted by kboehringer View PostTom,
I am the very FIRST person that will "RAG" on Harbor Freight tools (and misc. supplies) as garbage. Having spent nearly a year rebuilding my best friend's '77 Vette where the ONLY tools he had in his shop were from Harbor Freight. Those HF tools, frequently broke, always at the most inconvenient time(s), smashing knuckles, and/or causing some other damage.
HOWEVER, I own several torque wrenches including a "Pittsburgh #807" from Harbor Freight. This #807 is one of only a couple of items I WOULD recommend. It is a well made tool that is very accurate compared to my Snap-On and my Westward torque wrenches. I don't think this wrench cost more than $20? (if that?) and is a great value.
NOTE: When not in use, calibrated spring style torque wrenches should be stored in the fully loosened position.
Sincerely,
KURT1980xs1100.sg Pacifica Fairing ..stock.
2006 Honda Shadow Spirit 1100.! ⛺
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Originally posted by tomcos67 View PostThis year I made the mistake of striping oil pan and final drive by overtightening!!!!The torque wrench at harbor 20 ft. lbs. to 100 ft. lbs.. Is this the tool that I need or r values to high for oil plug and final drive. Thanks..Or is this junk? What to buy....81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
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I have used some hf tools myself. Especially ones that may only get used once in a while. I just purchased the inspection camera for looking at the cylinders of my 1100. But I hate the smell of Chinese rubber that hits you as soon as you walk in. Actually makes me nauseas. And as far as torque wrenches, I only torque certain fasteners that require it.
Tim1979 xs1100sf black.
1973 Harley fx.
2005 Honda 450x.
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