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Harley fork seal question

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  • Harley fork seal question

    Hi guys, after four decades of riding metric bikes I picked up a low mileage Sportster for a good price. Overall I like it, though it IS different. It's over 12 years old so maybe that's why one seal is slightly leaking on one fork tube. Here's my question. I've watched a few tutorials on line about changing the seals and they all show taking the whole fork tube assembly apart. Why can't I just take the tube off the bike, slide the dust cover up and pull the seal out with a dental pick or something? I would think I could then just slide the new seal and dust cover on and be done with it. Am I missing something??
    '79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace

    Purrs like a kitten, runs like a scalded cat

  • #2
    PS, I've heard you can put a little brake fluid on the seal which will cause it to swell and possibly cure the leak for a while. While I know this is not the best way to do it, is this legitimate for a temporary fix?
    '79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace

    Purrs like a kitten, runs like a scalded cat

    Comment


    • #3
      That seal needs to be driven in, you won't get it out with a dental pick.

      These forks are easier to do than the XS, but there are a few tricks that help. Loosen (only) the fork caps before you remove the forks from the bike. Pull the damper bolt first (at the bottom of the fork). Then remove the outer dust seal, seal retaining clip, fork cap, and spring. The fork cap needs the right tool; don't try a 12-point socket on it, you'll just round it off. Use a 6-point socket, or a large, good condition adjustable wrench adjusted as tight as you can get it. Use the inner tube as a slide hammer until the innards come out. Reassembly, install the inner tube and damper, to drive the upper bushing and new seal in get a 2' piece of 1.5" schedule 40 PVC.

      Once the forks are off the bike, disassembly/reassembly shouldn't take more than 45 minutes per fork, even for a newbie. It is messy though....

      If you want more details, PM me.... I've done a bunch of these...
      Last edited by crazy steve; 05-11-2012, 09:45 AM.
      Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

      '78E original owner - resto project
      '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
      '82 XJ rebuild project
      '80SG restified, red SOLD
      '79F parts...
      '81H more parts...

      Other current bikes:
      '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
      '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
      '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
      Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
      Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

      Comment


      • #4
        Thank you very much Steve. What do you think about the brake fluid "trick" as a temp fix? Any harm?
        '79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace

        Purrs like a kitten, runs like a scalded cat

        Comment


        • #5
          Never heard of that one, but I have doubts that will work.... I suspect that once it starts leaking again, it'll leak even worse.
          Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

          '78E original owner - resto project
          '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
          '82 XJ rebuild project
          '80SG restified, red SOLD
          '79F parts...
          '81H more parts...

          Other current bikes:
          '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
          '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
          '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
          Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
          Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

          Comment

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