hey all! was riding my 94 cbr1000f took my hands off the bars as i slowed down then the handle bars started to wobble almost uncontrolably as i slowed to 30-20mph. does that mean the frt wheel is out of balance?
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Last edited by mjpxs11sh; 12-19-2011, 05:05 PM.Max
81 XS1100SH Black Beast Mutt
Kerker 4/1
stock carbs and air box.
78 headlite, handle bars,
1 set of ea-160/85mph guages,
crash bars, cruise control
Other 2 Wheelers
78 XS1100E jet kit, Kerker 4/1, air pods, jet kit-RIP
94 CBR1000F jet kit,Two Bros pipe, K&N FilterTags: None
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air pressure or head bearingsSeamus Ó hUrmholtaigh
Niimi Moozhwaagan
NOTICE: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been inconvenienced.
Any connection between your reality and mine is purely coincidental.
Member of "FOXS-11" (Former Owner of XS-11)
and SOXS
2008 Nomad "Deja Buick'
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Keep your hands on the bars Realy, if your bearings are smooth at every other speed and it handles great the rest of the time (check to make sure all trip tree stuff is tight and the main bearings to the frame are adjusted and free) The tire is a good place to start, right pressure, cupped? If cupped, it is balance or shocks worn out. I am betting trip tree adjustment will fix1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8
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Bettin' the steering head bearings need replaced with taper rollered bearings. Those come with the same ball type bearing that WAS on my 92ST. Replace them with tapered roller bearings and your issue WILL be no more!.......BTDT. For whatever reason, Mother Honda chose to use ball type bearings on there steering heads and they easily get pounded out with flat spots on the race. Don't even bother to adjust......just replace. While your at it, pull that front wheel and check those front wheel bearings VERY carefully. If that scoot has in the neighborhood of 50K or more miles on it, replace them too while your at it......both weak areas and I'm sure the CBR is no different using the same bearings from factory.81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
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Swing arm bushings have caused the front wheel to wobble??//////////It is possible, but unlikely in this case. What you have is somewhat typical of the larger cc Hondas. The speeds that bike is capable of, it could suddenly turn into a tank-slapper too. Replace those steering head bearings with tapered-roller sets and replace the front wheel bearings at the same time. Tires need to be paired together as far as make/style also. Our XS's, tire brands front and rear not as critical as long as they are in good cond., but not true on alot of later re-designed scoots, specially the sport/sport touring class bikes......thats just been my experience having both for a lengthy time.81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
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I'd say you more than likely have more than a single issue that's causing the front end to shake. Any bearing or mating surfaces that have gone beyond factory tollerance can add to a tank slapper It would be wise to do the entire front end top to bottom. An unballanced tire could do it and a cupped tire cold add to it but I doubt fixing those two things will totally eliminate the cause and the wheel bearings either probably are bad or even the torque on the axle can cause a bad feeling front end if left unattended. The older front ends were all weaker than the modern day forks and brakes and many people tried fork dampers and fork braces to try to eliminate what, in many cases, was caused by flexing tubes, axles, etc. The bottom line is when everything is at factory specs they will be much better, but probably not perfect.Can't beat the smell of gas & oil
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thanks everyone. i know the tire pressure is correct, the tires not cupped, obvious stuff seems normal. bike drives, corners, etc, great. next ill jack up the frt end and see how the bearings are in the steering head, and go from there.Max
81 XS1100SH Black Beast Mutt
Kerker 4/1
stock carbs and air box.
78 headlite, handle bars,
1 set of ea-160/85mph guages,
crash bars, cruise control
Other 2 Wheelers
78 XS1100E jet kit, Kerker 4/1, air pods, jet kit-RIP
94 CBR1000F jet kit,Two Bros pipe, K&N Filter
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Originally posted by motoman View Post- - - For whatever reason, Mother Honda chose to use ball type bearings on their steering heads - - -
balls is cheaper & so long as the headraces last until after the warranty expires Honda don't give a soft bio-extruded brown thing.
Mind you, balls is better than Timkens on race bikes because they move easier and weigh less and the mechanics will rebuild a racebike after each race meeting so racers don't care about longevity neither.Fred Hill, S'toon
XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
"The Flying Pumpkin"
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