Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Spare CL350 twin motor

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
  • #1

    Spare CL350 twin motor

    Late last year I picked up a 72 CL350 twin, and I have been working on it ever since. During the summer I noticed it was burning oil like mad and at one point after letting it sit for a few weeks the pistons seized for a short time. I was able to get it to go, but ever since it would backfire and had greatly reduced power. So the plan was to rebuild the top end.

    I just picked up a new motor, which looks to be in great shape. The cam chain tensioner is spotless and the cylinders looks good, and the pistons look great. I know this because the motor is in pieces. Previous owner picked it up, also in pieces, but did not need it. So I plan on rebuilding this motor and replacing the current one, then rebuilding the original motor with a bore kit. I have never done this before so if anyone has any tips it would be great. I assume I will be starting this with the left side piston at TDC when I put this all together, and then the cam in the TDC position as well. Is there anything else I need to worry about when I rebuild this?
    1984 XJ1100 - 79 cams, XS850 FD, XS triple tree/euro cafe bars, hydraulic clutch, bar end mirrors, yamaha R1 rear mono-shock
    1972 CL350 - clubmans, Mike's XS coils/condenser, '98 Yamaha R1 rearsets (If I can find some at a decent price)
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Cl 350

    Open the first post in this forum, and see if a manual is listed for the CL or CB 350. I assume this is a twin cylinder.
    put something smooooth betwen your legs, XS eleven
    79 F (Blueballs)
    79 SF (Redbutt)
    81 LH (organ donor)
    79 XS 650S (gone to MC heaven)
    76 CB 750 (gone to MC heaven)
    rover has spoken

    Comment

    • #3
      Long time, no update. I have a manual and I have been following it during the rebuild. I have taken out the original motor and have both it and the spare in my apartment. Glad the Fience is 3 hours away for the next 6 months as they are currently strewn about my 'livingroom', along with some carboys for my beer making efforts.

      Things are going well so far, I decided to rebuild the 'new' motor that is in pieces since the starter clutch is in great shape. The lower end looks good and the pistons/cylinders look good as well. I transferred the starter motor over already, but I am just waiting to order new oil seals, a gasket kit and a new set of rings before I put her together. The harder part will be to install the cam. Last time I did that I removed it myself so I knew how to put it back in. This time, I am guessing the left cylinder will have to be TDC but no clue on the cam lobe positioning. Maybe it will make more sense as I get closer.

      Not going to bother with changing the valves just now, they are sealing very well and this is a budget build. I have also been polishing the parts as I pull them off the motor and it seems MEK is the best for removing the original coating. I am a paint chemist, so I tried a variety of solvents/solvent blends. 2 hours immersed in MEK really did the trick, just had to remember to pull the oil seals from the parts before dipping. The motor is starting to shape up and with about $120 to $140 more in parts will be set to go. Still debating on painting the rest of the motor or not, but I am feeling pretty lazy and I like the patina.
      1984 XJ1100 - 79 cams, XS850 FD, XS triple tree/euro cafe bars, hydraulic clutch, bar end mirrors, yamaha R1 rear mono-shock
      1972 CL350 - clubmans, Mike's XS coils/condenser, '98 Yamaha R1 rearsets (If I can find some at a decent price)

      Comment

      • #4
        Since you are a paint chemist, I have a question.
        Barr makes some stuff called Jasco Prep and Prime, and Klean Strip Prep and Etch. Both are phosphoric acid and water based, with the Jasco having 2-5% Ethylene glycol monobutyl ether. What is it's function in the mix?
        Both are claimed to convert rust to ferrous phosphate, suitable for paint, Bondo or epoxy coating.
        Do you have any hints on it's use or non use.
        I want to coat the inside of a tank, and since I only want to do it once, I would like to get the process right the first time.
        In particular, when I use it on rusted steel, it seems to leave a glossy finish on the parts that aren't rusted. Should that be rinsed off before coating application?
        Any advice would be appreciated. CZ

        Comment

        • #5
          That is typically used as a solvent in waterborne OEM automotive coatings and does not play an active role in most of these. From a coatings point of view, I would go with that one so it can help solvate the iron oxide. I would focus on the phosphoric acid concentration as having an excess of this will drive the iron oxide to convert more completely. Bringing the iron phosphate into solution could theoretically help to increase the rate of reaction, so if the concentration of phosphoric acid is the same for both go with the Jasco material.

          As for tips for its use, I have never tried this before. I am sure there are those that have much more experience than I do recoating tanks. I have seen some amazing results with electrolysis on tanks though, and if I were having this issue I think I would try that first. It seems like less chemical waste and gives me an excuse to do chemistry in my garage.
          1984 XJ1100 - 79 cams, XS850 FD, XS triple tree/euro cafe bars, hydraulic clutch, bar end mirrors, yamaha R1 rear mono-shock
          1972 CL350 - clubmans, Mike's XS coils/condenser, '98 Yamaha R1 rearsets (If I can find some at a decent price)

          Comment

          • #6
            Thanks for the reply, Rubin.
            I tried the electrolosis rust removal, and was not happy with the results. If you have a lot of time, it might be a solution.
            And on top of that, the supplier of the epoxy said that the epoxy actually bonds to the rust, giving it a better grip. So I don't know what the truth is.
            Guess I'll just have to experiment, huh?
            CZ

            Comment

            Previous template Next
            Working...
            X