Anyone have any painting techniques they'd like to share?

[DGXSER]

Thats what I thought might happen. Thanks for the info!! Save me ruining a good part.

[jmnjrpa]

Stay the HELL away from stripper and plastic. Don't ask me how I know.

[jmnjrpa]

BTW-- It could take you a couple of months. Been there. The curing time lengthens as the coats build up.

[Rickrod3]

Don,

I used automotive laquer from duplicolor. That's a GM standard color for Chevy Blazer, IIRC, #285? Anyway, most important is don't try to spray laquer over enamel, the enamel will melt. You CAN spray enamel over laquer, though.

The clear is high heat duplicolor engine enamel (1300 degrees). Says fuel proof on can, and so far, 4 years has not lifted when fuel spills on it. It's important to let the clear coat cure a looong time before you buff and wax it. I cured mine for two weeks.

Wet sand between coats. Used 800, 1000, 1500 grits in that order for each coat. Sand, Sand, Sand. Rinse well, dry, then let it cure a couple of days. Repeat with another coat and sand. I used four color coats and four clear coats. Last color sand will be dull, but the clear will bring out the shine.
__________________

Hey Randy:

That paint job is inspiring to say the least!
Did you sand in between clear coat applications?
If you do not mind how much of the old paint had to be removed?
About how long did it take you?
How much painting experience did you have before this one?
Looks like a pro job to me.
Thinking of tackeling a paint job.

Thanks
Rick

[DGXSER]

Yeah I skipped the stripper and went to a utility knife to scrape off the thick layer I had acumulated. The paint was coming off in balls and rolls as it was still soft underneath with sandpaper. So, I scraped it off with a utility knife and a wood chisel down to the previous paint color or so and in some places primer or plastic. I can now safely vouch that this side cover was on an SG originally as you can see the red flake in the original black paint.

So now I have sanded back through from 220 grit to 600, 1000, 1500, 2000. Letting it dry until tomorrow then I will get some automotive sandable primer and some auto black paint in rattlecans and try my luck once more. But being much more patient about drying times!

[T99Ford]

Its not harder or much more expensive...

Its not that much further of a stretch to just paint something with a paint gun and automotive paint. The base-clears are much easier to get good results with than the rattle can. All of the hard work is in your prep.

Sand to 6-800 grit.
Wipe with a grease remover or reducer and tack rag
spray primer
Wet sand primer to 6-800
wipe with reducer and tack rag
spray base coat
an hour later spray clear
let cure 3 days
wet sand to 2000 grit
buff with fine cut rubbing compound/ swirl remover
wax

Tank and side covers will cost about $75-100 in supplies. A useable paint gun will cost about $65

Never having to tell anyone its rattle can: priceless!

[randy]

Thanks, Rick

Don,



Hey Randy:

That paint job is inspiring to say the least! - Thanks!
Did you sand in between clear coat applications? - Yes, 1000 grit
If you do not mind how much of the old paint had to be removed? - All of it! - to bare metal so I could touch up the small dings with filler.
About how long did it take you? - Most of the time is drying time, total working time was i guess, 8 hours.
How much painting experience did you have before this one? - A few car fenders, bicycles, and lots of ceilings and walls.
Looks like a pro job to me. - Thanks again. Hearing "I can't believe that came from a rattle can" - priceless.
Thinking of tackeling a paint job. - Go for it. There's no substitute for first hand experience.

The great thing about painting is, if you f it up you can do it again till you get it right.

[DGXSER]

The great thing about painting is, if you f it up you can do it again till you get it right.

Yep, so far I am proving that over....and over...and over....and over........

[jmnjrpa]

Caution!!

Do not try to cure in oven. The plastic will melt at 160 to 180F with no warning!!! I used to work for a modeling shop and we even let our laquers cure for 48 hours at 120 to 140F. I know this is the wrong time of year but I set mine out in the 100 degree TEXAS sun for a couple days between coats after drying enough that dust would not stick. A good product to use for wet sanding is the grit covered foam blocks. Only problem is I haven't found one in fine grit.

[randy]

A spray bottle filled with water and a drop of dish soap is handy to keep the work wet as you sand. Use palm-size pieces of sanding paper and rinse the residue off the paper frequently.

[DGXSER]

With it being winter here in the upper midwest region (and 100 deg is an F-in hot day here in the hottest summer days) I am letting my paint cure in my basement work shop. Since my work is a side cover, I take it to the laundry tub and rinse while sanding.

[crazy steve]

Its not that much further of a stretch to just paint something with a paint gun and automotive paint. The base-clears are much easier to get good results with than the rattle can. All of the hard work is in your prep.

I'll second that. Using a catalyst-type paint is much better than anything you'll find in a spray can. You can get close with the automotive touch-up, but you still won't have as durable a finish. For a gun, HF sells a HVLP two-gun 'kit' that has a small 'detail' gun (both for about $60) that is just about perfect for painting a bike. Just make sure you follow the directions for the paint (mixing/thinning/temp) and you'll find it's just as easy as a rattle can.

I'll add that using chemical strippers on plastic parts will pretty much ruin them, and you may not be able to get new paint to stick properly even if you get the plastic smoothed out.

'78E original owner

[CA]

Holy Painting batman!

So this thread has really scared me about painting my tank and sidecovers this winter. Now I am thinking about taking them to some cheap autopaint place....

my brother has a decent paint sprayer...but I have never done automotive paint jobs, so I have never wet sanded or any of that crap!

[DGXSER]

Hey CA,

If they need paintig, then they must not be looking that great to start with. (Or your one of them artistic types like to change stuff just because you want change. ) I have never tried to paint out auto type stuff that I cared what the end product looked like either. I have seen quite a few of these old bikes since I got mine and I can tell you that most of the paint jobs I have seen were rattle can jobs. And most of them I could never tell you it was until I got alot closer than most folks will ever be to my bike.

Now, having been through this process with a side cover that I need to closely match a factory paint job since I plan to sell the bike in the spring, it is trying for a less patient person like me. And I do not think I will reach the glass like finish, but it so far is looking pretty good in my opinion. Should end up easily close enough that a buyer wont notice the difference from one side of the bike to the other.

So, go ahead and give it a try, worst thing that can happen is you spend a few bucks that give you some experience and knowledge about what your paying someone to do for you which can only help you make an educated purchase.