XS750 FD oil seal

[DGXSER]

Perhaps this is the right place for this, anyone know if they still make the oil seal for the XS750 final drive. It is part number 11 in the manual with a number of S-38-50-7.

[rpgoerlich]

PowersEdge Shows SKU: 93101-38086-00
OIL SEAL (S-38-50-7) (YG9-00971-96-0G) for $10.60

Speed and Sport show a few(26) on hand for $12.93ea
The Part number is: 93101-38086-00

If I was to guess, I'd say that was a 38x50x7 seal...

[DGXSER]

Thanks Richard!

[bikerphil]

DG, did you run into any problems installing this FD front seal? Mine needs changing, any helpful tips? I'm going to try a bearing shop and see if they have one first. Thanks

[DGXSER]

When I dug into the FD a it I found I was getting oil seeping around the where the coupling slides onto the shaft. So I did not replace that seal. I slid the coupling into place and put a generous amount of RTV in the holes and around the joint where the coupling and shaft meet. This solved my issue with oil seepage. I have since found that the XS11 Final drive has a seal in this location. Since that woudl be a wet joint on the XS750 it would not need a seal. So I made one of RTV which will hold up fine as it should not see movement.

The only time I had any seepage was when I would lean the FD so the dirve shaft coupling end was facing down. Since I was putting it on someone elses bike I wanted to be sure it was not going to leak so I tested it that way. The seepage showed up inside the coupling, where the drive shaft slides in. If the seal in question were to leak, it would be running the outside of the coupling.

[bikerphil]

Yep, my 750FD is leaking from in between the bearing housing (9) and the gear coupling (12). The inside spline area where the washer and ATV goes is dry. There is also an O ring (6) in there that is shot too. That would probably cause seepage where the shims are. I put the old 11FD back on for now. Maybe I'll try a few wheelies with it that way. Thanks for your help.

[DGXSER]

NP Phil, Glad to return some of the help you have given me!!

[STEPPENWOLF]

When I dug into the FD a it I found I was getting oil seeping around the where the coupling slides onto the shaft. So I did not replace that seal. I slid the coupling into place and put a generous amount of RTV in the holes and around the joint where the coupling and shaft meet. This solved my issue with oil seepage. I have since found that the XS11 Final drive has a seal in this location. Since that woudl be a wet joint on the XS750 it would not need a seal. So I made one of RTV which will hold up fine as it should not see movement.

The only time I had any seepage was when I would lean the FD so the dirve shaft coupling end was facing down. Since I was putting it on someone elses bike I wanted to be sure it was not going to leak so I tested it that way. The seepage showed up inside the coupling, where the drive shaft slides in. If the seal in question were to leak, it would be running the outside of the coupling.

If mine starts to leak I know who to see... This is the unit you must be talking about....

[bikerphil]

I got my 750FD (gen 2) pinion section torn down now, and it looks like it'll be a simple repair. I'll post some pics tomorrow.

[bikerphil]

Some pics of the 750FD taken apart, ready for front seal and O-ring replacement....

Home made slide hammer used to remove pinion assembly from housing...


Draining the old fluid...


Pinion gear...


Pinion gear disassembled...


Old seal and O-ring...


I found the seal at a local bearing supplier for $4, the O-ring shouldn't be too difficult to find. More to come...

[DGXSER]

Yep that is the 750 FD in question there Bill (aka Steppenwolf). You got a moneyback guarantee on that one. Watch for any oil or dirt to gather where the FD connects to the swingarm.

Nice photo doc there Phil. There is supposed to be a crush sleeve/spacer between the bearings (no 32 in tha manual), may be there and I just missed it in the pictures. I would think if you tore it down that far, you are officially supposed to replace that crush sleeve now. Or would that only be required if you switch actual gears out?

[bikerphil]

Yep, replacing the crush collar would be standard practice, but I'm just gonna snug the nut down and Locktite it. The crush collar isn't normally replaced when adding the extra washer and RTV, so hopefully it will be OK.

[DGXSER]

Seems to me the purpose of the crush washer is to establish the gear mesh clearance/interface. So as long as the same bearings and gears are used, it should give the same distance or gear interface. I would probably just reuse it to, but then the anal retentive engineer in me would take over and I would at least recheck the spline interface of the gears. Overkill I am certain, but then the old ounce of prevention thing comes into play.

[bikerphil]

Ok, the SKF P/N for the oil seal is 692443, and it cost me $4. The metric O-ring I couldn't find anywhere, so I had to order it from Yamarobber for $8. Won't have it till next week.

[DGXSER]

What a bunch of horse crap, the rubber seal cost half what the bloody dang o-ring cost!! Yama-robbers is right! Probably cost them $1 from their source.