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  • Paint Guru's, help please.

    Hey all,
    I recently did a paint job on the 3rd degree (long winters get boring here in ND haha)

    I used a single stage paint combination for the base and flames (mistake #1) I really wish I would have gone with a basecoat/clearcoat. Paint went on fine everything was all fine and dandy untill I peeled the tape up for the flames, it left a ridge along the edges of the flames.

    Now, both colors, base and flames are mettalics, so sanding is pretty much out of the question, as is buffing with any kind of rubbing compound.

    The question is, what are my options? Im looking at a possible repaint of the tank, as Im really not happy with the overall turn out of it (flames can be better, paint has too many imperfections dirt etc.) And I have alot of left over paint, so I may as well get it so Im happy with it. It will be the same deal, paint the base, cure, and paint flames, as well as tape, so Is there something I can do to avoid this, (at least as bad) the next time around?

    Id like to attempt to clear coat it, but its enamel paint, so im afraid that the paint will blister.

    Thanks for the help.
    Bauer
    1980 XS 1100 SG (The 3rd Degree) - The Cafe' Racer
    Image Photos @ http://photobucket.com/albums/f230/BauersXS11/
    1980 XS1100 G (The Trouble Maker)
    Fully stock and still goin at 65k miles

  • #2
    Metallic paint can be wet sanded and made to shine very well. The key is to start with a very fine grit, keep it wet and stop before you sand thru. Once you have gone up to say, a 1200 or 1500 grit paper, you can go to polishing compounds. You can concentrate on the ridges left by the tape, but again you need to go slow. Once you have used a non-silicone based polishing compound and you like the finish, you can clear coat it as long as you use a clear coat from the same manufactuer. The clear coat can even be wet sanded and polished out to produce a deep gloss. You may even find that alot of the imperfections you don't like will go away with the wet sand/polish procedure. If you are thinking about redoing the paint job anyway, practice on what you have now and see what it takes to get it the way you like it. A trick I have used in the past is to "make" a paint booth out of plastic sheeting. Of course I used the bathroom as the base for my plastic paint booth, worked really well due to the lack of dust, controlled tempatures and the ability to spray and then leave it for hours before moving it. Remember to ventilate!! I will leave it it up to you to explain to the SWMBO why the bathroom is off limits for 8-10 hours. And where the metallic blue overspray came from.
    When a 10 isn't enough, get a 11. 80g Hardbagger

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    • #3
      you can clear coat it as long as you use a clear coat from the same manufactuer.
      Even on enamels?

      I did try some 1500 grit wet sanding and it seemed like it just exposed the metallics and made it look worse than it does.

      New paint is definately on the block now, I do plan on doing some playing around with it to see what I can do when I get the new paint laid.
      Last edited by Bauer; 04-12-2006, 03:50 PM.
      Bauer
      1980 XS 1100 SG (The 3rd Degree) - The Cafe' Racer
      Image Photos @ http://photobucket.com/albums/f230/BauersXS11/
      1980 XS1100 G (The Trouble Maker)
      Fully stock and still goin at 65k miles

      Comment


      • #4
        Yes, even on enamals as long as its the same brand. Try useing some fine polish on the part you sanded, it should "gloss" out pretty well and the metalllics will even out. If you are using a siphon feed paint gun, put some clean marbles in the cup next time you shoot paint. Swirl the gun around between paint shots and the marbles will help keep the metallic particles suspended. Take your time, it will come out great.
        When a 10 isn't enough, get a 11. 80g Hardbagger

        Comment


        • #5
          Depending on the type and manufacture of the enamal you used, there is usually a clear that can be put over it. You will want to research your paint products. Don't hesitate to contact the vendor, I have found them to be very helpful. Usually the paint store you purchased the paint from can help also. Just go in, tell them your problem and see what they say. You will only feel like a newbe for a short while. Much less than how long you get to look at a nice paint job.

          Don't wait to long. There is an optimum time after color coating to get the clear on for the best adhesion.

          As for sanding metalics, I don't like to do it. Assuming you got the paint on so the flakes are suspended, sanding will cut off flake edges close to the surface. It will result in a bunch of metalic slivers, not nice reflective flakes. It produces a cloudy look in the paint.

          That is my $0.02, and I am not even a Guru!
          Last edited by Dennyz; 04-12-2006, 04:10 PM.
          DZ
          Vyger, 'F'
          "The Special", 'SF'
          '08 FJR1300

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