Another flasher question...

[81xsproject]

I read through some old posts but just could get or understand what I needed to know. With the up and coming dual headlight project rapidly approaching functional, I am wanting to lose some draw from the blinkers and the rear running lights by switching to LED's.

So today I was down at Schmuck's looking at the electronic flashers. There are basically two kinds; one little black plastic box with 3, 4, and 5 prong models all have the "bulb out indicator" feature, the other is a clear round plastic "variable load" job supposedly for heavy duty apps like trailer lights and such. The variable load one does not have the bulb out indicator feature and on the inside I can see mechanical looking parts? Which, if any, should I choose. They are all about $13, so price really isn't an issue.

[TopCatGr58]

Don't be a SCHMUCK!!

Hey Jesse,

Advance Auto Parts
Tridon Electro-Mechanical Flasher: 12 Volt; 2 Terminal

Part Number: EL12
Our Price: $7.97

Just the simple 2 prong kind, as stated above, it is a combination Electronic/mechanical design, vs. the fully THERMAL kind!
T.C.

[81xsproject]

Thanks TC. I try not to be a Shmuck too octen. Everytime I go in one of those (Schucks, Kragen, Checkers, all same company) I leave more disgusted than the last time. I like the old style parts houses. They are getting fewer and farther between. Napa's not bad, but the guy who owns the one hear is an ass who acts like I am an inconvenience to him so I don't give him much business.

[RS Thornton]

Top Cat,

I need to be enlightened!

I think there is 2 ways of putting the 3 prong female connector on this, so which 2 wires need to be connected to this?

The terminals on my current one are marked B C & L compared to the X and L on the replacement. I am thinking that it would be the brown/white and the tan wires (B&L terminals) and that the yellow/green back to flasher cancelling unit is not connected.

So I guess I would lose the auto cancel function. Not that I think I have ever seen my signals auto cancel!

This is on a 78E, so maybe later models only had 2 prong flasher.

Thanks,
Scott

[prometheus578]

ah... yes. Flasher troubles.

I too have had troubles with flashing. Just last week, as a matter of fact. I was downtown... wearing my long overcoat, exposing myself to old women and such. I was walking past the theatre and saw a cute young ticket-taker that struck my fancy, so I went in.
"May I see your ticket, Sir?"
I then flashed her.
"I want to see your ticket, Sir, not just the stub."

Boy... no sense of humor, her!
I'm a flasher with only one prong.

Ok, I'm sorry... it's an old joke that I don't get to use much.

[LoserShoes]

B = Battery
C = Cancel
L = lamp

X = Battery
L = lamp

Might have to move the contacts in plug to match the flasher. Just depress the little tab with a small screwdriver to extract contact, and just push it in to replace it.

Steve

[TopCatGr58]

Getting your wires crossed!

Hey Scott,

Steve has provided the right descriptions for the pins(thanks). IT was just a matter of trying it plugged in one way, and then the other, cause it'll only plug into the plug 2 ways. On my 81SH I didn't have to do any wire swapping, but on an XJ that I worked on, I did! All of the 11's used the 3 prong flasher, but the 2 will work, just will loose your self cancelling feature!

Now...if your new flasher unit is a THERMAL one, then you may have some other corrosion problems in your flasher circuit preventing the flashers from working properly? Did you try starting the bike before trying the flashers? If they will work with the engine on, then you're getting more power thru from the charging system, but means you'll need to inspect and clean your connections, they should work with just the key on!
T.C.

[RS Thornton]

thanks guys, I think I got in now

Things are working fine, so of course I have to start screwing around and change something!

I am trying to go to the LED's to cut down on current draw, I want to use the draw for a set of aux lights and an electric jacket. I ran both of these farkles on the bike last year, and they worked fine in an either or situation, both on is a problem. From what I read if I can get all 4 running lights on LED's I should free up ~25-30W when I am driving. This should mean lights and heat on the insterstate.

Plan is to hit FLA for bike week and possibly a pit stop in Key West too. One thing for sure, no matter how good the weather gets in MI, it will be both cold and dark at 4a.m. in early March when we start out.


Scott

[TopCatGr58]

Flasher Challenged!

Hey Scott,

If you are using LEDs and the THERMAL type of flasher, that's your problem. There isn't enough current draw with the LED's to activate the thermal flasher, you need to get an electronic or combo electro/mechanical type, not fully thermal!! Good luck!
T.C.

[RS Thornton]

TC

Do you have all LED's in and this EL12 is working for you? Mine will not work when both front and rear bulbs are LED, it is like there is still a minimum draw needed for this flasher and the LED's are too low.


I pulled the flasher and ran a jumper across the connections and verified that the wiring and LEDS are all functional. With the standard 1156 filament in the back signal it all works, so I may have to call it good and get back to this later. I am heading to FLA next week and need to stop jacking around and replace the rubber before I can go.

thanks,
Scott

[RS Thornton]

Steve,

Sorry, I meant to address that last post to both of you. I really, really, really need to preview before I post.

Sorry,
Scott