instrument cluster question/ odometer too

[ripchord11]

Hi Everybody, I won the instrument panel on Ebay !!!!YAY!!!!!!
my question for you is, will I have to take off the fairing to change out my instrument cluster. I am hoping not........I am really hoping it is not that technical..............Another questions is..............My bike only has 11,000 miles on it, but the new speedometer, has 60,000 miles on it, do I have to keep a log of the new miles on paper? I realize it is trivial.........but in my overexcited state of mind, I think of these things, I am proud to have only 11000 actual miles, and I would like to be accurate..........THANX!!

[John]

Can you remove the headlight with the fairing on? You'll need to get in there in order to unplug/plug the electrical connectors. If you can do that, then removing the cluster should be easy. There are two small bolts that attach the gauge cluster to the upper triple clamp. They are located just below each gauge. the heads of the bolts are small, about7mm, and there are nuts on the back side, but you should be able to get to them. I'm not too sure about a Special with a fairing, but that's how it is done on a nekkid Special like mine. You'll also need to disconnect the speedo cable before removing the cluster from the bike. If none of that is accessable, then the fairing will need to removed or at leats loosened up on it's mounts and tipped forward to gain acces to the back of the gauges. Good luck.

[ripchord11]

Thanks John; I do not know if I mentioned it, but my XS is the regular old XS not the "special", it has the Vetter Windjammer, with the typical tour package that Yamaha offered back then. The weather is making it hard to work on the bike today (DRATS!!) but I did go look at the space around it, and it is tight, but you are correct, there is a a couple of wires behind the headlight area that might be hard to get at without removal of the fairing. I did not look at the headlight area as far as taking out the headlight only, but that would be a possibility...........Now my questions is, how hard is the fairing to get off without a mess of wires.......I was thinking of taking it off anyway to perhaps place some rubber washers in between the frame and the fairing, because I get irritating noises coming from it when I hit rough road, or bumps, and even at certain RPMS (Vibrations at approx 3500). It also didn't help that the previous owner, dropped the bike on each side of the fairing, leaving some rattles that way......The fairing is like a megaphone for the noise around the bike, Which is gone with a helmet on, but I would hate other riders to hear anything but sweet music from Red Velvet.

[webbcraft2150]

I ahve the same rig you do. The fairing comes off real easy as long as the PO left the plug in wiring harness in place. It will be on the left side of the fairing. The plug should have two latch type clips that can be a pain to get to release together, just work at it a little. Then remove the 4 bolts that hold the fairing to the mount. Take the front ones off first. Be carefull when removing the rear ones as the fairing will want to tip foward when they come out. Should have good access to all the wiring now. While you have all that stuff off, unplug and clean as many connectors as you can, one at a time. If you get froggy and want to get rid of the vibrating noise from the fairing, try this trick. Clean the inside compartment real good, line the inside with foil or wax paper and shoot about 2 inches of spray foam insulation in the bottom of the compartments. Practice with the foam first as it expands to 2-3 times in volume and you could get too much in there. DO NOT touch it till it sets up, very sticky stuff. Once it sets up, you should notice a big decrease in vibration and resonance. The wax paper/foil lining facilitates removal of the foam if needed. Once it sets up, you can trim it real easy with a knife also. This trick worked so well on the bike, I filled all the voids in my 30 year old Dodge truck cab, yeah!!, I can hear again.

[ripchord11]

Thanks Webcraft , It will be my first actual work on the bike, it is in great condition besides the scratches and tears, on each side of the fairing, from the drops of the PO, should be able to replace the silver and black trim around the fairing that recieved most of the damage from the drops.........took the bike for a ride around the block, .........ok.................20 times around the block, noticed the rear brake was not releasing, and got hot, parked it, and it would not roll in neutral without a lot of effort, next day, it rolled ok, took it for another ride, but this time it did not get hot, or lock up.......go figure!! while looking at the rear brake linkage, following it up from the foot brake, noticed a rubber boot or rubber cover of some type, that appears shredded or torn....... is this just a cover over the linkage, or is it supposed to hold brake fluid????? I am concerned that this might be the cause of my brake staying on??? Sorry I know this is another topic, and should have been asked in a new question or thread, but I did not have a lot of time.........Russian(sic) I am getting excited that spring is coming!!! I want to b ready!!!
By the way.......How do you like your 80G???? Have you tried a naked XS?? I would like to know comparisons of the 80 G as apposed to the other years and models of the XS Kingdom. I have not been able to find any reviews on this particular year and model Sorry I know this is probably a jumbled mess of multiple questions, but ALL your comments would be appreciated greatly...........................to any or all parts of this "questionaire" LOL

[andreashweiss]

I can solve your rear brake problem. Will send you rear master cylinder,rear brake switch,the shaft that holds the metal rod and goes into rear master,brake line,caliper and mount everything except the rotor price includes shipping.$40.00 These will be used bolt on good to go parts. Rear master works good nice and clean. andreashweiss@yahoo.com

[ripchord11]

Andreashweiss; Thank you.........Is that what the problem is?? I cant see a master cylinder going bad with only this many miles on it (11000)Or maybe that rubber cover is important??? If you wouldn't mind holding that part for me for a month or so, I would like to buy it anyway, even if I do not need it right away.

[andreashweiss]

My solution solves your problem because it replaces the entire rear brake system. However to solve your problem yourself you should check the the rear master cylinder. Take it off bike take it apart clean it. It is usually the plunger that sticks. Can be a host of problems, with a bit of effort you will find it. I can not save parts sorry, parts are offered to whoever pays first. I am cleaning out my misc xs1100 parts cheap. Not a whole lot left. andreas

[webbcraft2150]

The rubber boot is just a dust cover. Nice to have but they are getting hard to find. Your rear brake hanging up is not an uncommon problem. This happens when the bikes sit for a long time. Usually you can disassemble and clean the caliper (nice if you have a kit on hand) and the problem will go away. There are some tips in the Tech Tip section on this. Would be prudent to change the brake fluid in both systems with the age of the bike. You ask if I like my G? Been one the better bikes I have owned. I know I have kept it longer than any other bike. I was fortunate in that the PO parked it for for over 6years but kept it covered in a garage, Other than minor cosmetic issues, the bike was in excellent condition. It has just a hair over 63k now. It does many things well and one of the it does good is go fast, still. A full dresser is slower than the naked version by virtue of extra weight and wind resistance. However, I try to ride all year long and the fairing affords alot of weather protection and I have gotten used to having the saddle bags. The seat makes you stop about every 100 miles, but you need gas not much long after that. I have ridden better handling bikes, but overall its a great ride. At 26 years old, it will still hold its own against newer bikes and has stood the test of time. It still draws people at rallies and gas stops, more than I can say for the look-alike late models, including high $ HD's. I may in the future add a bike to my stable, but the 11 will go with me to the grave

[ripchord11]

UPDATE****** Changed out the speedometer cluster. wasn't too hard. but.........speedometer does not work!! But it also did not work on my old one either, could it be the wires, fuse, connector??everything else works on the cluster.......anyway. went to go for a ride......tried to back out of the driveway........rear brakes are stuck on......hard to roll it in neutral...........drove straight out into back yard, and around to street, still has brakes on lightly, rolled around block, brakes increased, got it back to driveway. hard to roll now at all, parked it....... rear brake has no play in it, like it is full of pressure or air will not allow parts to move, even after dose of WD40............I do not know how to release the rear brake, as it has been over a year since I helped take it apart. I think it was cleaned out a year ago, after sitting for 11 years in a covered garage for motorhomes. Please tell me how to release brake, ( like in the book for dummies please) and if this is any indication of a malfuntioning or dirty part. I am looking for a manual, but I still have not found one except for a CD version on ebay. Please help as I want to get it ready for spring........THANKS

[xswilly]

one of the quick things to do is tap lightly on the caliper
to release the brake, this is only to move the bike around
as it will stick the very next time you hit the rear brake
remember the key word is tap, with a plastic hammer
or a short piece of wood, try not to use metal
search the forum about the spong hole in the rear master cylinder
that may be the problem
if not your looking at either rebuilding the master cylinder, caliper or both
good luck

[ripchord11]

I was thinking of checking out the Spooge hole, and trying to clean it out, and change brake fluid. So weird that it worked ok one day and the next day, not.........

[webbcraft2150]

Sounds like you need to pull the whole rear brake system and do a overhaul. The piston in the caliper is physically stuck. You can loosen the banjo bolt at the caliper, but that may not let the piston loosen up. You can also pull the caliper mounting bolts and GENTLY tap the caliper assembly up till it clears the rotor. In any case, your gonna need to disassemble the caliper, clean it and reassemble to keep the problem from coming back, same with the rear master cylinder. I have a real "factory" service manual and would be happy to fax (no scanner) the section that deals with the brakes. Clymer makes a good service manual also, may have to order it it. Be patient, shes old but fixable .

[andreashweiss]

Sometimes when the speedo does not work and you know your gauge and speedo cable are ok it might be the unit attached to the the left side of front wheel. Where your speedo cable attaches too. This speedo drive unit wears out. Last time I bought one from Yamaha (2 yrs ago they were approx $30.00 )