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New XS owner in San Diego

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  • tntmo
    replied
    Yeah, I tried the tapping them, very lightly tightening them, etc. I even put some valve lapping compound on the tip of the JIS screwdriver but they just started to get messed up. I will put some localized heat on them next time, maybe use the soldering iron and see if I can get them out. I feel pretty confident that the butterfly is properly installed, I lightly installed both screws and cycled it through a few times gently tightening up the screws. I didn't let it snap like you posted, but it was working very smooth.

    Today I checked out all the speedometers I have, the original 85 mph one is looking kind of beat and when I hooked it up to my drill it was making a nice screeching noise. The one on the bike is a 160 mph one, it didn't work the first few test rides but now it's kind of working, but it goes up to speed slowly and it takes a second or two to drop down to zero. I have another 160 mph speedometer, that one seemed to work find so I popped it on.

    I did a test up and down the street and it's nice, but now the headlight indicator is on! Haha, always something. I will pull the headlight off again and make sure I didn't disturb some wires or something.

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  • bikerphil
    replied
    Originally posted by cajun31 View Post
    letting the carbs snap back shut is key
    You got that right brother. Learned the hard way too.

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  • cajun31
    replied
    Originally posted by tntmo View Post
    I have a nice Vessel JIS screwdriver set. The screws were just not budging and rounded out a bit. I quit before they got too bad, but don't know if they will be coming off or not.

    The throttle plates sure seem to be just fine, the carbs are smooth and crisp in operation. Nothing mechanical is keeping them from closing. The next time I take the bank of carbs off I can check that out but I'm doubtful that it's the issue.

    Anyway, the bike is coming around and is almost ready to hit the road for some good shakedown miles.
    I take a very light tac hammer and lightly tap on the end of the JIS screwdriver to make sure it is seated in the screw. I then ... and this may sound stupid ... but I start out by slightly tightening the screw in the seat to break the seal then I remove the screw. I have only had to drill out a couple and I have done many. I polish the throttle plates with 000 steel wool and take the original screws and seat them back with blue Loctite after replacing the shaft seals. What Phil said about letting the carbs snap back shut is key to getting the plates centered. I learned that the hard way on a set of carbs I was restoring. Took a while to figure out that I had one plate slightly catching open. Hope you figure everything out and get the bike back on the road.

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  • tntmo
    replied
    I have a nice Vessel JIS screwdriver set. The screws were just not budging and rounded out a bit. I quit before they got too bad, but don't know if they will be coming off or not.

    The throttle plates sure seem to be just fine, the carbs are smooth and crisp in operation. Nothing mechanical is keeping them from closing. The next time I take the bank of carbs off I can check that out but I'm doubtful that it's the issue.

    Anyway, the bike is coming around and is almost ready to hit the road for some good shakedown miles.

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  • bikerphil
    replied
    Originally posted by tntmo View Post
    Replaced some of the carburetor shaft seals, couldn’t get the screws out of some of the butterflies.
    You really need to use a JIS screwdriver with a serrated tip to properly remove and tighten the throttle shaft screws.

    Probably the reason for the idle hanging is the throttle plates you did remove are not perfectly centered. To center them, loosen the two screws and open the throttle and let it snap shut, doing this two or 3 times and then tightening the screws will properly align them.
    Last edited by bikerphil; 08-01-2021, 08:59 PM.

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  • tntmo
    replied
    Ran a compression check, all were close to 125 psi. Checked the valve clearance, #1 exhaust was just below tolerance so adjusted it. Installed automatic tensioner from a VSTAR 650.

    Replaced some of the carburetor shaft seals, couldn’t get the screws out of some of the butterflies. Got new fuel lines installed and hooked up the “octopus”.

    The bike is running pretty good but still is hanging on deceleration, slow to return to idle. It’s synchronized as well as we can get it.

    Last few things to do are get the speedometer working and figure out the clutch rattle noise. It rides pretty nicely as it is now.
    Last edited by tntmo; 08-01-2021, 06:55 PM.

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  • tntmo
    replied
    Got the petcocks rebuilt, used a kit from Ebay that is sold for the XZ550 Vision. It worked fine, but had to buy the filters separately.
    Also got a Saddleman replacement seat cover on EvilBay. It was ok, but a very tight fit. A few of the metal tabs on the seat pan broke off so had to use some pop rivets and washers to hold the seat cover on in those areas.
    Last edited by tntmo; 08-01-2021, 06:53 PM.

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  • Bergman16
    replied
    Thanks gents.

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  • cajun31
    replied
    Originally posted by Bergman16 View Post
    Tntmo: how do you prevent flash rust after the vinegar soak? I want to try it again but that happened last time I tried it on an old H tank.
    What you have to do is get the tank dry as quickly as possible then throw some sort of oil in there and slosh it around to coat the inside. I always use my heat gun. I take the fuel gauge electronics and petcocks off then hold the heat gun in the gas cap fill opening to thoroughly heat the tank up until it completely dries everything then i put the components back on and throw about a half a cup of Marvel Mystery oil in and rotate the tank until the entire inside is coated. The reason I like to use the MMO is because it actually mixes well with gas and will run ok. I actually add some to my gas on fill ups. It quiets down the top end noise.

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  • tntmo
    replied
    Originally posted by Bergman16 View Post
    Tntmo: how do you prevent flash rust after the vinegar soak? I want to try it again but that happened last time I tried it on an old H tank.

    I mix a few cups of gasoline with a few tablespoons of motor oil, install the petcocks and the gas cap and swirl that around in there for a few minutes. I drain it out and it's usually good to go. You reminded me to go take a look, no rust after sitting all day.

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  • Bergman16
    replied
    Tntmo: how do you prevent flash rust after the vinegar soak? I want to try it again but that happened last time I tried it on an old H tank.

    Leave a comment:


  • tntmo
    replied
    Originally posted by cajun31 View Post
    . On reassembly I always replace the butterfly shaft seals. No matter their condition... most are as old as the bike. Vacuum leaks are your enemy ....
    Well you called it. I double checked my carb sync, they were pretty close but as I was lightly revving up the bike I could see that the mercury on #1 was going down sower than the others....probably hanging up and causing the issue I was feeling shifting between gears. I sprayed carb cleaner around the throttle shaft and the idle picked up.

    Getting eight of the seals on order ASAP. The tank has had it's first rinse after a vinegar soak and it's about 90% clean. I will hopefully have the tank clean tomorrow and then will pull the carbs and get the vacuum leaks under control.

    Bit by bit, the bike is coming back nicely.

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  • DiverRay
    replied
    The front pads on the Special are! Each pad is different!! They are tapered because they rotate around the one bolt that holds them. If you have at least 4mm on the thick part, you are still good. If they have been soaked in brake fluid or oil, then yeah, replace them.

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  • Socer4m
    replied
    howdy,,,was out surfing,,,anyway, the slow drop after revs is usually the carbs need to be synched with a gauge, either vacuum gauge or the ol mercury ones, I prefer the vacuum gauges as all carbs can be synched at once and no mercury getting sucked into the engine,,,,if I remember the special pads are made to be at an angle, looks wierd but works, I know my xj maxim had those but havent changed in a long time,,,so adjust the idle mix screws, then synch, then repeat along with new plugs and it should run like a raging ape, also check for vac leaks around the carb boots, spray some carb cleaner or wd40 while running around the boots and if ANY change in rpm,,,there could be a slight vacuum leak, boots or carb couplers.....

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  • tntmo
    replied
    I have four gallons of vinegar in the tank, will see what it looks like tomorrow. The front brake is feeling like it's at about 90%, but I'm going to order some seals or rebuild kit, whatever is out there. The front brake pads are worn at a very weird angle, will be replacing those as well.

    The bike runs pretty good, still needs some tuning but for a first go 'round I'm happy. Until I take it on the street. It revs out fine, but when I go to shift into the next gear it takes a second or two to drop down to idle. This doesn't seem to happen revving it up in the driveway. Any insight on that from the group?

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