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Poll on how you like your choke levers

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  • Poll on how you like your choke levers

    I have this one in my hand, and the weakness of the tab that has the rubber on it- obviously. About 2 or three mm down from the bottom of the rubber piece, I can lop off the area that has the rubber, and put a knob there instead you can grab, that far down on the piece should not be brittle no matter how much you use it- but the pull would be slightly harder due to the lack of leverage.

    Or I can do it exactly as the factory had it- but no rubber

    or I can do it absolutely OEM stock looking as possible for concours restoration types.

    Adding the rubber, I think will add to the price quite a bit- global rubber prices are high, and pretty much all manufacturing in rubber is pretty high compared to straight metal fab.

    What do you guys want?
    13
    Do the knob mod!
    30.77%
    4
    Just get me the part as close as possible- I will put my own rubber on it LOL
    69.23%
    9
    Go concours restoration types- damn the price!
    0.00%
    0

  • #2
    Another option?

    Hey Cruising Ram,

    See the examples of both Standard and Special styles below. Seems to me the "knob" section is slotted and separated from the main part of the actuator piece to allow room to fit the rubber tip on?

    I vote for making the knob ALL METAL, but also keep it the same size/length/locaiton, but omit the slot...which would provide more metal and remove the "flex" point, so it would be less likely to bend and therefore break!?
    T.C.

    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

    Comment


    • #3
      Okay- the choke lever in the lower pic is the one I have- and I pulled off the rubber, and it is cracked right at where the rubber ends- and that part of the lever is made in one stamping- I don't know what you mean by "slot"

      It looks like the one I have is starting to crack from the double action of the lever being pulled on and corrosion that builds up right were the rubber ends- like the rubber has made a demarkation that turns fatal! Am I describing this right?
      Last edited by CruisingRam; 10-11-2005, 09:12 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        What I mean by SLOT is that gap between the part that the rubber handle is on, and the part the engages the choke lever rod. Just make it without that slot, and make the handle/knob area a bit larger.....still have the slot for the choke rod, but no slot between the handle area and the rest of the lever!?
        T.C.
        T. C. Gresham
        81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
        79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
        History shows again and again,
        How nature points out the folly of men!

        Comment


        • #5
          Okay- I get it, make no gap there, no "slot" okay- that slot is at the same angle up about 1/4" that would probably brace it and make the load spread more evenly- and alter the look less-

          Yes, I can do that- should I modify the poll? Or can I?

          Ya- topcat- you are a mod- can you mod the poll so it says a fourth option of filling the slot up about 1/4'- about where the angle changes- and leaving it bare metal?

          I think that is a pretty good way to fix the defect!
          Last edited by CruisingRam; 10-11-2005, 09:50 PM.

          Comment


          • #6
            I think if someone had to have the rubber, they could dip it in the stuff you dip tool handles in (and some say you can brush on you carb diaphrams)
            Pat Kelly
            <p-lkelly@sbcglobal.net>

            1978 XS1100E (The Force)
            1980 XS1100LG (The Dark Side)
            2007 Dodge Ram 2500 quad-cab long-bed (Wifes ride)
            1999 Suburban (The Ship)
            1994 Dodge Spirit (Son #1)
            1968 F100 (Valentine)

            "No one is totally useless. They can always be used as a bad example"

            Comment


            • #7
              Plasti Dip would work, or one could use a vacuum cap on the end of the lever.

              Comment


              • #8
                Vacuum cap (3/16 I think) worked for me
                80 SG
                81 SH in parts
                99 ST1100
                91 ST1100

                Comment


                • #9
                  My choke lever is like the top picture, but with the tang that has the rubber piece broken off and screwed back on with a small sheet metal screw. I agree that the slot between the tang and the part that hooks to the choke piece, needs to go away. I also think that the tang need to be a little thicker then the thin pot metal design that was stock. As far as the rubber, Lets make it light, strong, and functional first. The rubber can always be added.
                  S.R.Czekus

                  1-Project SG (Ugly Rat Bike)(URB)
                  1-big XS patch
                  1-small XS/XJ patch
                  1-XS/XJ owners pin.
                  1-really cool XS/XJ owners sticker on my helmet.
                  2-2005 XS rally T-shirts, (Bean Blossom, In)
                  1-XVS1300C Yamaha Stryker Custom (Mosquito)
                  1-VN900C Kawasaki Custom (Jelly Bean)

                  Just do it !!!!!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    What everyone's talking about is not really a slot but a gap in the embossing. The embossing is there to stiffen the lever and prevent flex. Of course the gap just makes the part flex in that one spot leading to fatigue cracking, what were Yamaha thinking there? I hope the genius that designed this part eventually got fired from his job but I suppose that's to much to hope for.
                    Shiny side up,
                    650 Mike

                    XS1100SF "Rusty", runs great, 96k miles
                    XS650SJ "The Black Bike", engine from XS650H with 750cc big bore kit, 30k miles

                    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece, but to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out and defiantly shouting, "WOW, what a ride !" - [URL="http://www.flyingsnail.com/Sprung/index.html"]Sprung[/URL]

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      my tab is broke too... but i dont use it anyways....lol
                      Shawn
                      78 XS1100E "Black Rat"
                      78 XS1100E Parts
                      www.hotrod1972.com

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hey Shawn! Are you still in Mo, or have you gone back home yet?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I'm home... just a few scratches on the bike and a little bend in the luggage rack... nothing major to the bike... the house is a little worse off but if the insurances pays off the what the adjuster says.. then i get a good remodel on the house
                          Shawn
                          78 XS1100E "Black Rat"
                          78 XS1100E Parts
                          www.hotrod1972.com

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I'm glad to hear that things weren't all that bad, and you guys made the trip safely. Good luck with the repairs to the house.

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                            • #15
                              Just an update for y'all to where I am at on this so far- I had to make a command decision, and the choke lever is on it's way to Russia!

                              It will be made of stainless steel, it is the one in the second pic, and the "slot" will be a 1/4" shallower, hopefully, this will cure the breaking of the tab issue for as long as you own your bike!

                              I will post again when I get a projected price on this item, and the first small amount back! I will probably produce 300 as the "run" depending on per-unit price to get it to my door.

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