asking a favor

[robywan_kenobi]

Hey all! I am going to replace my friction plates and clutch springs this weekend. I have searched through all the tech tips and through this forum for tips on how to do this, so I feel somewhat confident that I can do it. My only issue is that alll the tips I have read are scattered all through the forum, bits and pieces everywhere. Is anyone that is experienced in doing this job willing to type up step by step instructions? They don't have to be real specific, just what order to do what and any perinent information I may need. I have already located an inch pounds torque wrench for the clutch spring bolts and I think I'm ready to get started, it would just be nice if I had a single page of instructions to look at as I do the job. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, and it seems like a relatively simple job, I'm just a little anxious about cracking that case open and getting lost. Thanks again for any and all help.

[Geezer]

Replacing the clutch isn't at all a hard job. I'd recommend printing out the tech tips but plan on following the manual.

Geezer

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Rob,

I've got to do this on my basket case, it's been 4 years since I was inside there, but I'll try to give you a decent guide, but I'm sure the REAL GURU's here will chime in if I forget something!

1. Drain Oil.
2. Shift bike into 5th.
3. Find piece of wood to wedge the back wheel from turning.
4. Loosen clutch cable at handlebars.
5. Remove clutch adjuster plate cover.
6. Gently bend retaining tang that keeps the clutch cable held on lever and remove cable. Loosen adjusting nut, and turn the actuator rod back a few turns to allow room for new plates.
7. Loosen rear engine support nut/bolt that secures footpegs, so you can swivel or even remove or at least slide outwards to allow room/clearance to remove the clutch cover.
8. Loosen clutch case cover bolts.
9. May need a rubber hammer to break seal of cover from engine.
10. Remove cover, and be sure NOT to TURN the clutch lever, there are loose ball bearings that can come out or get dislodged, causing it to not function properly when reinstalling!

11. First break loose the 6 star plate bolts, then back them out until the plate can be removed, along with the springs, HOWEVER, take 1 bolt and spring and put it back in, to help hole the plates in place in the basket.
12. Bend back the locking tabs of the locking washer around the main clutch nut that is now accessible.
12. Get large torque wrench and 27mm socket and break loose the clutch nut. IT'll take a fair amount of pressure, ~50 ft/lbs or more....why you need the piece of wood to secure the rear wheel, just position it so it will wedge against frame without hitting anything else.
13. Remove the main nut/washer, and then you can slide the basket out....be careful, there is a loose sleeve/washer type item that is on the inside/engine side of the basket that the clutch spins on, it may first be stuck inside the basket, but can easily fall out when you pull the basket and then turn it facing up!
There is also a thrust washer back there, don't loose it!
14. With basket in hand, take to bench. Remove bolt/spring, and then you can remove the outer main clutch boss assembly, don't remove that little wire sticking out of it, just take the whole thing off. Then you can get to the plates. Note the order of how they are in there, friction, steel, friction, etc.
***There is a thrust washer at the bottom of the basket under the clutch boss, don't loose or forget it!

15. Take the steels and soak in carb cleaner a while, then you may need to take some very fine emory cloth to them to remove any glazing/heavy burned varnish from their surface. Inspect them for burrs and wear where they contact the basket. And then take them and lay them on a piece of large flat glass to check for warpage. You may also be able to make out a pattern etched/pressed on their surface, another good sign of not too badly worn.
16. During this time, have your friction plates soaking in the oil you will be using!
17. Now, you can reassemble the basket full of plates, take a screwdriver and try to keep the grooves lined up, and put the steels(also dipped in oil) and friction plates back in. Then put the thrust washer back in the bottom, and then slide the main clutch boss assembly back in, NOW you see why you needed to keep the grooves in line!
18. Once you are sure that the Boss has reached bottom, you can spin the boss inside the basket, to ensure they are all spinning, and then put that bolt and spring back in snugly to hold the plate together.
19. Put the basket back on the shaft, careful of the bearing collar, and spin it when you near the bottom of the shaft to ensure engaging the oil pump gears...no binding!! Again spin the basket to make sure it's snug. Now replace the thrust washer, lock washer, and nut,and tighten and then torque to spec.

20. Bend the locking tabs back up around the nut on 2 sides.
21. Remove the starplate bolt, and then put the rest of the NEW SPRINGS on the pressure plate shafts, and the star plate, and the bolts, only finger tight.
22. Take you torque wrench SHAFT/socket extension and 10mm socket ONLY , and using it like a screwdriver, turn each bolt by hand 1/2 turn each working around the star. Make sure the star plate is even, and check closely as it starts getting tighter to turn so be sure the pressure plate shafts are not getting caught on the lips of the star plate. Continue this until the bolts are seated, and the star plate is secure. NOW you can torque to 7ft/lbs using alternating pattern of your choice.
23. With a new gasket handy and your choice of sealant, having applied fresh oil to the contact surface of the Starplate and actuator rod, and having cleaned your oil level site glass , replace the clutch cover, AGAIN NOT TURNING the clutch lever, and replace all bolts, and then tighten to desired torque. Replace the clutch cable, adjust the clutch per manual, replace footpeg bolt, torque, refill with oil and GO!!!! PHEW

[skids]

Re: asking a favor

I used, I think, a 1 1/8 socket, to remove that big nut. In retrospect, I can't remember why I had to take the basket out.
Be careful to ensure that the gear to the oil pump(?) meshes with the gear om the base of the clutch basket, or you will bend that delicate gear.

When you see that the star plate bolts have nothing to do with increased clutch frictional grab, you will know that they don't need overtightening.

Be sure that you oil-coat the friction plates.

A tire iron through the rear wheel can help with tightening the big nut.

I replaced a clutch housing without a gasket a few years ago by using a thin bead of RTV Ultra Black. Still holdin'

If your oil window is opaque, you might want to clean it while your housing is off... no time better that THAT.

[skids]

Re: Re: asking a favor

Correction. I used a 1 1/16 inch, 6-point socket, however, it was a tight fit as I had to tap it on.

Originally posted by skids
I used, I think, a 1 1/8 socket, to remove that big nut.

[skids]

Damn, T.C.! Ya beat me to the punch and were so detailed, that my scrawny note was just silly! :-)

[TopCatGr58]

Naw Skids,

We both punched at the same time, check the time stamps! Just the ole 1-2 jab and knock out!

So....you don't think I left anything out
T.C.

[robywan_kenobi]

Many, many thanks TopCat. This is just what I needed. Thanks to everyone else as well. I really appreciate all the help I have received on this forum.

[strom]

No need to drain the oil.. Just put the bike on the sidestand. I think.
I replaced the clutch springs a few months back and I don't think I drained the oil. Not sure now anyway.

LP

[Lamric]

Strom, you're right. If you put the bike on the side stand there's no need to drain the oil.

I went for the heavy duty springs last summer and I would recommend them.

[Winterhawk]

Dang, and I thought TopCat was the real guru on here? If not he still ranks right up there.

[Geezer]

Where do you get the springs?

Geezer

Originally posted by Lamric
Strom, you're right. If you put the bike on the side stand there's no need to drain the oil.

I went for the heavy duty springs last summer and I would recommend them.

[robywan_kenobi]

Geezer, I ordered my springs from Bike Bandit http://www.bikebandit.com , but they are also available at PartsNMore http://www.partsnmore.com and Old Bike Barn http://www.oldbikebarn.com . All three are within $1 as far as cost. I ordered from Bike Bandit because PartsNMore was out of stock at the time I placed my order. I also believe, if I'm remembering correctly, that they had, by far, the cheapest shipping. I received my springs and the cover gasket as well within 3 or 4 business days (that included a weekend though).

[robywan_kenobi]

Well Great!!! I just received my package from Old Bike Barn which was supposed to have my eight new friction plates in it. The box only contained one plate!! Dang!! I talked to a guy at Old Bike Barn, he said it was a shipping oversight and he would get the others out to me right away. But, great, now I get to ride around for another week or so with a slipping clutch. He said shipping oversight, I think someone screwed up. The package had a packing slip from K&L supply which showed one plate ordered rather than the eight that the kit was supposed to contain. Again, Dang!!, I say.

[Geezer]

The springs from parts&more aren't sold as heavy duty. I'm sure they're better than old stock springs but do you think they're better than new stock ones?

Geezer