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Hi All,
I just got finished making a backrest for my XJ and thought others might be interested in the design. I am going to add a luggage rack pretty soon and will update then as well.
(What a great looking bike!!)
Believe it or not the uprights are salvaged from an old BBQ grill stand. The square metal is exactly the right size. I am planning on using the curved parts that hold up the side tables for the luggage rack.
For the backrest pad:
I used 3/4-inch plywood cut in the shape I wanted. I cut 4-1 inch sheets of foam in the same shape and pulled vinyl around the foam and the 3/4-inch plywood. I pulled it tight, stapled it to the back of the plywood, and trimmed the excess vinyl.
I then pulled vinyl around a 1/4 piece of plywood cut in the exact same shape and stapled it.
I used wood screws with finishing washers to attach the 2 pieces together.
Be sure NOT to put screws where the uprights will be attaching
I then dotted each wood screw with clearcoat to inhibit any rust that might want to form.
(If you want to have the backrest made in leather or to match your upholstery, have it done at a shop. They will probably charge $20-$40 for a small job like this.
I then attached the uprights to the seat frame, where the crosspiece originally bolted using the bolts from the bike. (Just measure up and drill a hole in the inside of the square metal where the other cross piece bolted in.)
I predrilled the metal to accommodate the lag screws and predrilled a pilot hole in the backrest. I them used 2 inch lag screws with finishing washers to attach the backrest while my wife sat on the bike and told me how high to adjust it.
My mantra is "never throw ANYTHING away!" so I had the old grill pieces and always have scrap plywood.
This project cost me about $9 for the screws and vinyl!
Another note: I also took an old broom handle, (NEVER THROW ANYTHING AWAY!!!) that happened to be the perfect size to fit snuggly inside the square metal, and hammered it before drilling. I did this for increased rigidity and in case I want to attach eye-screws or a lashing point on the sides to lash stuff on. (See the little holes in the uprights? They were already there from the grill.) Be sure to allow enough room for the upright to fit all the way over the seat attachment, and allow clearance for the rubber cap at the top.
I just got finished making a backrest for my XJ and thought others might be interested in the design. I am going to add a luggage rack pretty soon and will update then as well.
(What a great looking bike!!)
Believe it or not the uprights are salvaged from an old BBQ grill stand. The square metal is exactly the right size. I am planning on using the curved parts that hold up the side tables for the luggage rack.
For the backrest pad:
I used 3/4-inch plywood cut in the shape I wanted. I cut 4-1 inch sheets of foam in the same shape and pulled vinyl around the foam and the 3/4-inch plywood. I pulled it tight, stapled it to the back of the plywood, and trimmed the excess vinyl.
I then pulled vinyl around a 1/4 piece of plywood cut in the exact same shape and stapled it.
I used wood screws with finishing washers to attach the 2 pieces together.
Be sure NOT to put screws where the uprights will be attaching
I then dotted each wood screw with clearcoat to inhibit any rust that might want to form.
(If you want to have the backrest made in leather or to match your upholstery, have it done at a shop. They will probably charge $20-$40 for a small job like this.
I then attached the uprights to the seat frame, where the crosspiece originally bolted using the bolts from the bike. (Just measure up and drill a hole in the inside of the square metal where the other cross piece bolted in.)
I predrilled the metal to accommodate the lag screws and predrilled a pilot hole in the backrest. I them used 2 inch lag screws with finishing washers to attach the backrest while my wife sat on the bike and told me how high to adjust it.
My mantra is "never throw ANYTHING away!" so I had the old grill pieces and always have scrap plywood.
This project cost me about $9 for the screws and vinyl!
Another note: I also took an old broom handle, (NEVER THROW ANYTHING AWAY!!!) that happened to be the perfect size to fit snuggly inside the square metal, and hammered it before drilling. I did this for increased rigidity and in case I want to attach eye-screws or a lashing point on the sides to lash stuff on. (See the little holes in the uprights? They were already there from the grill.) Be sure to allow enough room for the upright to fit all the way over the seat attachment, and allow clearance for the rubber cap at the top.
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