fork seal change for dummies

[jazzrat2000]

Hi, what special tools will I need to change the front fork seals on my 79 XS750? I have the Haynes book for it, as well as the Haynes and Clymer for my XS1100... is this something I can tackle in my back yard? Any special tips, etc? I checked the tech section, and I need the seals replaced, not just new oil, they are leaking after my long ride a few weeks ago... Sorry for all the naive mechanical questions, about the only things I feel fairly confident about tackling are cosmetic...

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Doc Jazz,

Well, much to my surprise, I looked amongst the tech tips, and about all I found was this one: Special Fork Tool

It doesn't cover the entire procedure, but describes the special tool needed to hold the inner parts still while you try to unscrew the bottom allenhead bolt.

What's funny is that I was able to unscrew mine from my special without reading this or any other tips, and without the use of an air wrench, it just came out! I got lucky, usually it spins internally and won't loosen or come out. If you had an allen key wrench that would fit onto the end of a reversible drill, then I think you could probably get it to unscrew that way as well since the drill could develop a faster turning/torque speed that would allow it to unscrew the bolt before spinning the inner parts!?

IIRC, you'll need some C-wring pliers to compress the retaining C-ring to get it out to be able to remove the seal!! A large PVC pipe or something that is the same diameter as the seal would be good for gently driving in the new seal! Good Luck!
T.C.

[jazzrat2000]

Just to show you how much of a rookie I am, I never heard of C ring pliers... but I will get some tomorrow! (I do know what PVC is, though... )

[steelcat]

When I did my fork seals a year or so back, I found that removing the old seal was tough (first one). For the second one I stuck the fork (seal end) into boiling water for a bit. This heated the fork, expanded the hole & make gettting the old seal out easier. It also makes getting the new seal in easy.

[prometheus578]

If the bolt on the bottom spins... turn the fork tube up-side-down, stand it one the floor and push down. This compresses the spring which stops the gizmo inside from rotating with the bolt.

[Materi]

Mine spun when I tried to loosen the bottom allen nut as well. I read the part about making a tool from wood, and was in the process of trying to locate a suitable piece to shape, and came across a piece of pipe which I place in the tube against the rotating gizmo and it held firmly enough to extricate. Getting the old seals out was a pain, though I finally got them with an old screwdriver and hammer ( careful not to damage the tube, take your time) and one of those hooked seal removal tools. I replaced them with the NeverLeak seals from Dennis Kirk, and they went in much easier than the old ones came out. The whole procedure took an afternoon. With all the help on this site, you won't have a problem Dr. J.

Good luck,

Keith

[John]

Hey Doc

I would recommend paying the extra $$ and get OEM seals. I have tried many aftermarket seals, and had no luck with them, Neverleaks included. I finally gave in and bought OEMs 5 years ago, and have not had a leak since, and they still retain the air pressure.

[Ron]

To loosen the bottom bolt, do that VERY first. Have someone put some wieght on the handlebars if need be... it's been a while, not sure if I needed to do that or not. Put an air rachet on that sucker and loosen it. Put a block under the engine to lift the front end off the ground. Do not loosen the triple tree! Take off the wheel, remove the bottom bolts from the tubes. Pull up the boot/cover and remove the circlip with pliers or something. I used a pice of coat hanger modified on a grinder to catch and remove the circlip. Have someone hold the bike steady and give a sharp pull down -- the seal should pop right out and the lower tube come off. It usally takes a couple of good pulls to pop it out.

Hmm, might have to remove the plug at the top to loosen off the spring inside - I don't remember if I needed to do that or not. Probably do need to do it, after loosening the bolts and maybe after removing the wheel. But before removing the bolts.

You more experienced guys - what are the hidden dangers if any? This has worked for me a couple of times. Or was I just dreaming... LOL

To install the new seal, use something the right diameter to drive it in. A piece of PVC or a large (upside down) socket works. A block of wood on top and a hammer. make sure it's all lined up and drive it home.

[randy]

Also helps to put the seals in the freezer the night before. Don't take 'em out until you're ready to drive them in. They'll go in REEEAAALLLL easy!

I use this trick with everything that's an interference fit, bearings, races, seals. etc.

[jazzrat2000]

wow, great tip about the freezer! Now, I just need to get some cojones together to give this, and the carb redo, a try...

[Jerry]

Just a note to those reading this thread...

There has been much discussion about fork seals, and the fact that many parts books show the wrong seals for later XS/XJ forks. Generally if you get the OEM seals you get the right size, which reduces the chance of them leaking, but if you go after-market make sure you get the right size and you won't have a problem.

The XS/XJ 1100s used 2 different size seals, 36 x 48 x 10 and 37 x 49 x 10. My understanding (could be wrong!) is that through-the-fork axles use the 36 x 48 and leading axles use the 37 x 49. Some places (including Dennis Kirk) list the 36 x 48 for all XS/XJ 1100s. This is wrong. If you can, verify the size of the seal and don't rely on just the application notes, particularly if you have a later-model XS or XJ.

[vanhump]

Having worked as a maintanence machinst for many years I have found the best place to get bearings and seals are from the industrial bearin supply places.Most bearings and seals are standard sizes whether metric or inch and ablut all can be matched up with quality parts and much lower prices.There are not a lot of manufactorers just custom boxed under differnt names for the retailers but under manufacter name for the distributers.

[Cleansoul]

Trouble removing the seal

Dissembling the fork was easy, all parts apart now, the problem is to remove the seal, it is staked, maybe it was glued on factory or afterwards. Any clue on how to remove it?
Thank You.

[DGXSER]

Assuming you pulled out the C-clip that holds the seal in, and the washer that is between the clip and the seal, then the seal needs to be pulled. I have found that a SEAL PULLERis amazingly helpful. Having pulled on with a screwdriver and then with this tool, the tool makes it ten times easier.

[Cleansoul]

May I help too.

I am rebuilding my XS1100SH 1981, and got some spares on ebay, sometimes a pack full for a nice price, among it, one spare tree, not the right year though. Now I found a good use for the lower end of the tree, I use it to hold the fork (one at a time) and it does firmly without effort, making it easy to assemble it. Except for the stake seal. I will try the boiling water, may be the only way.
thanks.