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[motoman]

Valvoline 20w50 motorcycle oil works well definitely.

20w40 is coming back into the fold because Indian specifies it for all of their v-twins and Victory specified it as well before they took their name off of bikes. One advantage I see is because of a 20 weight base oil it doesn't use much viscosity improver and will be less shear prone than a 20w50.

BTW Bonz, that IS the automotive type Vavolene 20-50w used.

[motoman]

Also, at age 29 with the Venturer in '81, invincibility and bullet proof played a major factor rather than oil viscosity.

[motoman]

BTW, those -30F temps required a heavy blanket over bike and a heat lamp under motor the night before.

[Bonz]

Valvoline 20w50 motorcycle oil works well definitely.

20w40 is coming back into the fold because Indian specifies it for all of their v-twins and Victory specified it as well before they took their name off of bikes. One advantage I see is because of a 20 weight base oil it doesn't use much viscosity improver and will be less shear prone than a 20w50.

[motoman]

Relatively speaking these engines turn oil black pretty quick, just the nature of the tolerances with the air cooled engine and the by-products of combustion.

With that said, my engine was in very good condition and didn’t burn and drop of oil of any brand or weight (15w40 or 20w50).

If there’s “thick black stuff” the engine has developed sludge, somewhere along the line the oil wasn’t changed often enough or sat in the engine a long period of time in storage, or some combination thereof. Neither weight oil is going to prevent that under whatever conditions that lead to it in the first place.

The 50 weight oil for the high number will help control oil consumption with an old tired engine and also possibly once the engine cools down, the 20 weight on the bottom will keep it from leaking past valve stem seals in the head.

What I meant by 40 weight on the top end, is Yamaha spec’d a 20w40 oil, which is making a comeback and now more common than most guys think, now that Victory/Indian specs it for their big Twins. Therefore a 15w40 gives the same characteristics as 20w40 when it gets warmed up, all else equal. 15w on the bottom number will flow a bit quicker at start up and potentially protect better when engine wear is at its greatest (cold start up).

6 of one/half dozen of the other... Supertech 15w40 or 20w50 is really all the further a guy need to look with an XS1100, IMO. Or any of the 15w40 oils like Rotella, Delo, Delvac, Castrol or Motorcraft on sale has a similar desireability given 2500 mile oil changes dictated by shift quality as much as anything.

Just to throw in 2cents worth, originally used Vavolene 20-40w year round in the ole' XS11(parked outside during winter, and rode at -30F in Durango,Colo.), until the introduction of Vavolene 20-50w. Used Vavolene 20-50w in both the XS1100 and the ST1100...year round riding. Never an issue with either bike. Same went for tire choice.

[Bonz]

Questions DiverRay-

What is the reason for idling for 5-7 minutes starting with a cold engine vs going for a ride to get the engine and oil temp up, then adding the seafoam/B12 and idling with a fan for cooling? My thinking is I wouldn’t only idle the bike for 5 to 7 minutes before doing a regular oil change, I would change oil after a ride when everything was up to regular operating temperature.

Doing this at the beginning of every riding season should keep the oil from turning black so fast. What about on the second, third, etc oil changes of the riding season? Doing it every spring sounds like a good regimen. But then why not at each oil change in the riding season as mentioned above?

[DiverRay]

What I do for an engine that has had oil in it for a long time is clean it with B12 Chemtool or Seafoam.
1. with engine cool, add about 1 cup of B12 to oil.
2. Start engine and run for about 5to 7 minutes with a fan blowing air over the engine to keep it from overheating.
3. Let it cool for about 10 minutes after shut-down, then drain oil and change the filer.
4. Refill with oil of your choice, install clean filter, then ride.
Done at the beginning of each riding season/spring should keep the oil from turning black so fast. If it does NOT help, check your compression on the engine. You probably have too much blow-by causing the carbon build up.

[Bonz]

Relatively speaking these engines turn oil black pretty quick, just the nature of the tolerances with the air cooled engine and the by-products of combustion.

With that said, my engine was in very good condition and didn’t burn and drop of oil of any brand or weight (15w40 or 20w50).

If there’s “thick black stuff” the engine has developed sludge, somewhere along the line the oil wasn’t changed often enough or sat in the engine a long period of time in storage, or some combination thereof. Neither weight oil is going to prevent that under whatever conditions that lead to it in the first place.

The 50 weight oil for the high number will help control oil consumption with an old tired engine and also possibly once the engine cools down, the 20 weight on the bottom will keep it from leaking past valve stem seals in the head.

What I meant by 40 weight on the top end, is Yamaha spec’d a 20w40 oil, which is making a comeback and now more common than most guys think, now that Victory/Indian specs it for their big Twins. Therefore a 15w40 gives the same characteristics as 20w40 when it gets warmed up, all else equal. 15w on the bottom number will flow a bit quicker at start up and potentially protect better when engine wear is at its greatest (cold start up).

6 of one/half dozen of the other... Supertech 15w40 or 20w50 is really all the further a guy need to look with an XS1100, IMO. Or any of the 15w40 oils like Rotella, Delo, Delvac, Castrol or Motorcraft on sale has a similar desireability given 2500 mile oil changes dictated by shift quality as much as anything.

[dbbrian]

...at the top end...

So what does that mean to the engine? The 40 is better when things get hot?

I have a bike that turns the oil black within moments. I just dropped the oil pan hoping to see the reason. Definately some thick black stuff there, and now I can see there will always be a 1/4" of oil sitting there after draining. But hard to think that has been the only cause.

Would 40 or 50 be better for an old engine that burns oil and turns it black?

Brian

[Bonz]

You guys are TOO funny... I was simply saying I have basically alternated between the two oils over the years just to be different.

We'll try to keep guys checking in around here! Ain't nothing does that like an oil discussion. Personally I would use 15w40 if I had to choose one and never allowed to switch back because on the top end that's what Yamaha wanted for hot viscosity.

[DiverRay]

No, I think he was fooled by the "new math" he had in school.

[skids]

Ok... 15w40 being as Yamaha spec’d 20w40 or 20w50 being as Yamaha spec’d 20w40.

I would run either and swap between them at various oil changes over the years.

So, overlapping low multi-viscosity and higher viscosity, somehow “average-out” for the recommended multi-viscosity? Oh Bonzer, you are just trying to create a ridiculous argument. :-D

[Bonz]

Ok... 15w40 being as Yamaha spec’d 20w40 or 20w50 being as Yamaha spec’d 20w40.

I would run either and swap between them at various oil changes over the years.

[BA80]

So funny! Web participation is near minimal and an OIL THREAD conjures up participation in a taboo subject.

Ahhhhhhhh……..….the olden days.....

[motoman]

Motoman are you and Motowoman going to grace us with your presence at the Colorado Rally in Durango July 11-15? For a day, for a night, for a beer?

Unknown as of yet.